blacking

[lego]

hi all i am just wondering is blacking just case of removing anonds and paint with blacking and renew anonds when done

or is there more to it than that?

[kitman]

hi all i am just wondering is blacking just case of removing anonds and paint with blacking and renew anonds when done

or is there more to it than that?

Hi lego, welcome to the forum!

 

Best to wire brush the hull areas where you are planning to paint to ensure a good 'key'. That way your bitumen will have a better chance of sticking.

[twinpot]

hi all i am just wondering is blacking just case of removing anonds and paint with blacking and renew anonds when done

or is there more to it than that?

Presure wash,scrape off stuborn stuff,let dry,2 or 3 coats of blacking,don't remove anodes,and don't black them,if the anodes are well worn replace them.have fun.

[lego]

cheers

[Canalwatcher]

I will be blacking next week using Rylards Premium - 3 coats. Is it better to brush or use a roller - or does it make no difference?

 

More subtly; if a brush what sort? stiff fence paint type bristle or more like an emulsion brush? - or does it make no difference? And if a roller rough or smooth? any particular roller material- or does it make no difference?

 

I aim to buy brushes/rollers etc this Thursday

 

Mick

[twbm]

Mick,

 

Cheapest wool type rollers and gloves you can find, they'll be buggered when you've finished. Disposable boiler suits if you're a messy painter. Cheap emulsion or fence paint type brush for working the bitcho into crevices particularly the top and bottom of the rubbing strakes and around the chine weld. If you can arrange to warm the bitumastic and keep it warm - hot air paintstripper pointed at the tin will work - it will go on much easier.

 

Check the bottom of your shoes before walking on light beige carpets.....

 

Trevor W.

[ChrisPy]

Mick,

 

Cheapest wool type rollers and gloves you can find, they'll be buggered when you've finished. Disposable boiler suits if you're a messy painter. Cheap emulsion or fence paint type brush for working the bitcho into crevices particularly the top and bottom of the rubbing strakes and around the chine weld. If you can arrange to warm the bitumastic and keep it warm - hot air paintstripper pointed at the tin will work - it will go on much easier.

 

Check the bottom of your shoes before walking on light beige carpets.....

 

Trevor W.

blimey, you're just as messy as I am.

[blackrose]

I will be blacking next week using Rylards Premium - 3 coats. Is it better to brush or use a roller - or does it make no difference?

 

More subtly; if a brush what sort? stiff fence paint type bristle or more like an emulsion brush? - or does it make no difference? And if a roller rough or smooth? any particular roller material- or does it make no difference?

 

I aim to buy brushes/rollers etc this Thursday

 

Mick

 

Use a brush for the first coat - it gets into uneven surfaces better than a roller. Have a look in 'Photos of Your Boat' (General Boating) for some pictures of Primocon primer on mine.

[newbie]

What is the average cost of blacking if you have it done by a 'pro'?

 

Thanks

[alan_fincher]

What is the average cost of blacking if you have it done by a 'pro'?

 

Thanks

Impossible to say, really.

 

Anyway would need to know length of boat, type of blacking to use, how many coats, and (often) how long you want it to cure before they put the boat back in, (most want to get you off the slip or out the dock faster than the blacking manufacturers say you should leave it).

 

Areas where there is lots of competition still advertise at prices starting at maybe £7 per foot, (probably plus VAT), but that will be for pressure wash and two coats of a fairly basic bitumen, and straight back in, usually.

 

But other areas where there is not a lot of competition you can easily pay £10 + VAT per foot and upwards.

 

Having observed blacking going on at a couple of local boatyards done by them, I wouldn't use them myself, as I neither thought their preparation or application came close to adequate.

 

That's why I've just been through the misery of DIY, although I don't think the cost will have been a lot less than some of the cheaper "do it for you" outfits. (Boat goes back in water today, and I don't know final bill, but it did include them replacing two anodes for me anyway....).

[alan_fincher]

For info, costs of my DIY use of slip - Bucks/Herts borders.

 

5 Full days out, allowing two days drying off before "re-watering".

 

Pulling in and out £165

5 Days on Slip £70

Pressure washer hire £35

 

Total £270 + VAT = £317.25

 

4 times 5 litres tins of Rylards Rytex cost a further £121.08 (inclusive of VAT)

 

(I'm convinced had my son not got over-enthusiastic on the coat he helped paint I'd have got away with 3 tins, saving £30.27 - you seem to need around 1 tin per coat on a 50 foot boat).

 

I'm convinced I have a far more thorough job than having it done for me, BTW......

 

I also paid £94 +VAT (£110-45) to have two anodes replaced - that sounds like quite expensive welding to me, possibly, but I've never had any done before, so I don't know typical boatyard costings.

[bottle]

£428-33.

 

Mmmm!! boat yard quote £10 a foot =£500

 

Still you have done a better job and have the satisfaction.

 

As for the anode cost, I have seen them quoted at 3.5Kg for £110 approx and that just to buy.

 

:rolleyes:

[Mrs Tawny Owl]

Ours is booked in to the dry dock at Hatton run by Stephen Goldsborough boats on Monday for the week.

 

£525 plus VAT to dry dock, and 3 coats of blacking. She's 70ft so not too bad at all.

 

Big plus is the dry dock is 3 locks down form the mooring so we can have her there in less than an hour

 

We took her to Brinklow the first time she needed doing into their covered dry dock and did it ourselves. We did a good job, but the £200 or so we saved didn't justify us taking a week off work each

 

Also we did it in November, meant a very short working day as we couldn't see what we were doing after about 4pm

 

That's why we've paid to have it done since.

 

Sue

[soldthehouse]

I would think that such a basic task would always be beter done by oneself if only for the peace of mind that the job was done "properly" and no corners cut.It is obviously of pivotal importance that the hull is protected properly,especially on an older boat. the reasurrance gained from doing it yourself would outweigh any minor incovenience even if costs weren't that much different.

Edited September 15, 2010 by soldthehouse

[alan_fincher]

£428-33.

 

Mmmm!! boat yard quote £10 a foot =£500

 

Still you have done a better job and have the satisfaction.

 

As for the anode cost, I have seen them quoted at 3.5Kg for £110 approx and that just to buy.

 

:rolleyes:

Is that VAT inclusive, or VAT excusive ?

 

Is that definitely for 3 full coats, one day drying between each, and two back in the water.

 

Using Rytex, or maybe something cheaper ?

 

Ignoring anodes, if this yard had done the job for me it would have been £510 +VAT, namely a few pence short of £600.

 

But they do far less preparation, (far far less), and each coat is rollered - reputedly less good for getting in any pits.

 

That's the cheapest "them do it" around here. The fabled Jem Bates quoted me about £750, including the VAT. I think he must seriously prefer wooden boats to steel!

 

Take it to Braunston, where there's competition, and it will cost a lot less. But I'd have to get it to Braunston, (and back without the scratches!...)

[Guest]

Ours is booked in to the dry dock at Hatton run by Stephen Goldsborough boats on Monday for the week.

 

£525 plus VAT to dry dock, and 3 coats of blacking. She's 70ft so not too bad at all.

Sue

 

That sounds like a good deal to me..

[Mrs Tawny Owl]

We think so.

 

Having done it ourselves once we are happy to pay to have it done, it's a long job and I don't really want to spend what little holiday I have blacking the boat.

 

She needs painting on the top as well, but we might do that ourselves, you can at least do a bit of that at a time, but blacking has to be done all at once while she's out of the water.

 

I know that's not going to be easy, and to my mind that should probably be done professionally cos it will be visible whereas blacking isn't. However I suspect the difference in cost between a professional paint job, and a DIY one will be such that she will get painted many years earlier if we do it ourselves.

 

Sue

[simonk]

For info, costs of my DIY use of slip - Bucks/Herts borders.

 

5 Full days out, allowing two days drying off before "re-watering".

 

Pulling in and out £165

5 Days on Slip £70

Pressure washer hire £35

 

Total £270 + VAT = £317.25

 

 

Bloody hell, the cheapest (and available) dock round here in Bradford on Avon is going to cost me 515 pounds (inc VAT) for three days diy 2 weeks from now! And it's not even covered...

 

I am probably going to use Rytex. I reckon 20 litres will be enough for 2 coats plus waterline coat on a 62ft boat. Is that about right? Only got three days so hpoing to do pressure wash (maybe some rust treatment too) and first coat Friday morning/afternoon, second coat Saturday morning and waterline coat Saturday evening, then leave to dry until monday morning. Is this viable? What if it rains? Is the temperature OK? Why didn't I do this months ago? Arghhh.

 

It really does need doing though. Anything else I should check while it's out?

[The Anonymous Bard]

£428-33.

 

Mmmm!! boat yard quote £10 a foot =£500

 

Still you have done a better job and have the satisfaction.

 

As for the anode cost, I have seen them quoted at 3.5Kg for £110 approx and that just to buy.

 

:rolleyes:

 

 

How come the moticon thingy says "rolleyes" but shows Mr(s) Coolie instead with the sunglasses?

 

The above moticon thingy should be an "off topic" but may likely be a rolleyes... or something similar... or a link to a Google page maybe...

[alan_fincher]

How come the moticon thingy says "rolleyes" but shows Mr(s) Coolie instead with the sunglasses?

 

The above moticon thingy should be an "off topic" but may likely be a rolleyes... or something similar... or a link to a Google page maybe...

 

I think the two emoticons are actually made up of

 

<colon>rollbeyes<colon>

 

and

 

B<right hand bracket>

 

so either of those should work, like this...

 

 

 

but if you run the two together with no space in between, I think you'll see what you are seeing....

 

:rolleyes:

 

So I'll try that.....

 

EDIT: Yep, that's it - did exactly what I expected. I think bottle probably intended two emoticons, but left out a vital space.

Edited October 2, 2010 by alan_fincher

[blackrose]

Bloody hell, the cheapest (and available) dock round here in Bradford on Avon is going to cost me 515 pounds (inc VAT) for three days diy 2 weeks from now! And it's not even covered...

 

I am probably going to use Rytex. I reckon 20 litres will be enough for 2 coats plus waterline coat on a 62ft boat. Is that about right? Only got three days so hpoing to do pressure wash (maybe some rust treatment too) and first coat Friday morning/afternoon, second coat Saturday morning and waterline coat Saturday evening, then leave to dry until monday morning. Is this viable? What if it rains? Is the temperature OK? Why didn't I do this months ago? Arghhh.

 

It really does need doing though. Anything else I should check while it's out?

 

That is pricey considering you're doing it yourself and you're only getting 3 days. I hired a drydock for my widebeam for a week last June and it only cost £230, and that's covered and it's in the expensive London green belt.

 

3 days is cutting things a bit fine unless there are a few of you. Don't forget you need to leave bitumen based blacking for 12 hours between coats and 24 hours before going back in the water.

Edited October 2, 2010 by blackrose

[MoominPapa]

That is pricey considering you're doing it yourself and you're only getting 3 days. I hired a drydock for my widebeam for a week last June and it only cost £230, and that's covered and it's in the expensive London green belt.

Bill Fen Marina: £100 for a week out of the water. Not covered: the boat stays on the trailer perched at the top of the slipway. No good for widebeam, or anything longer than 60ft.

 

MP.

 

[simonk]

Bill Fen Marina: £100 for a week out of the water. Not covered: the boat stays on the trailer perched at the top of the slipway. No good for widebeam, or anything longer than 60ft.

 

MP.

 

 

With such a captive market (I'm near Bath) all the facilities round here seem to be able to charge what they like. They're always busy, so they don't even need to compete with each other, and it's a long long cruise to anywhere else.

 

Suppose I'll just have to pay up, grin and bear it, do the job fast and hope it doesn't rain.

[alan_fincher]

That is pricey considering you're doing it yourself and you're only getting 3 days. I hired a drydock for my widebeam for a week last June and it only cost £230, and that's covered and it's in the expensive London green belt.

Hmm

 

I wish I'd asked there.

 

Believe me for around here, that's very reasonable.

 

Often the pulling or craning in and out charge is not a lot less than that, even before considering a weeks occupancy of the facility.

[MoominPapa]

With such a captive market (I'm near Bath) all the facilities round here seem to be able to charge what they like. They're always busy, so they don't even need to compete with each other, and it's a long long cruise to anywhere else.

 

Suppose I'll just have to pay up, grin and bear it, do the job fast and hope it doesn't rain.

 

I forgot to add, your estimate of quantities is probably high: we just put three coats of rylards premium on a 60ft deep-ish hull and used about 13 or 14 litres.

 

MP.