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Owatrol Oil - go on then...


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Righty,

 

A fair bit is mentioned about this wonder product, on the forum, and I've got a few questions, from my usually-sceptical viewpoint, particularly in its use as a magic additive for brush painting.

 

What I'd like to find out is:

 

* How does it work?

* What does it actually do?

* What's in it?

 

and primarily...

 

* Why isn't there (or is there?) a set of similar products from commercial/industrial paint manufacturers - you know, the sort of thing that comes in a plain tin with a long hazard label and mysterious designation?

 

I like the latter form of industrial product, in the firm belief that I'm buying something that somewhere is used in an industrial née professional setting, that comes with dangerous and hence (!) effective ingredients, at a price point where a profit margin can be added later... :lol:

 

The MSDS says it's :

 

a liquid of the long-oil varnish type, low-viscosity, based on alkyd-type resins in solvent dispersion.

 

and has, as its base:

 

NAPTHA (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED HEAVY

NAPTHA (PETROLEUM) HYDRODESULFERIZED HEAVY

 

That, plus a density of less than water, and a flash point of 67 degrees.

 

Does that make it 'just' another resin package, to be added to those already present in oil-based paints? Bearing in mind, I don't know much about this sort of thing... :lol:

 

The MSDS says it can't be added to paints containing Xylene, either. So far, all of our boat paints, possibly with the exception of the floor paint, contains Xylene. Does that mean that boat coach enamel top-coats don't contain Xylene as a solvent?

 

Thinking aloud really, but I know some people are fans and can add some useful info.

 

PC

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The MSDS says it can't be added to paints containing Xylene, either. So far, all of our boat paints, possibly with the exception of the floor paint, contains Xylene. Does that mean that boat coach enamel top-coats don't contain Xylene as a solvent?

 

Thinking aloud really, but I know some people are fans and can add some useful info.

Possibly some of the marine paint products already have some of these things in them?

Those of us who patch up with plain ordinary paint (cheaper, easier to get hold of, comes in more colours?), maybe need to add something!

 

All I know is I was surprised when two boats were painted with Dulux at the same time, and the one without it, needed a repaint 2 years later (mines due for one now, after 6 years !)

 

Apparently its surposed to make the paint flow and remove imperfections? I find it usually rains anyway so can't confirm that one!

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Righty,

 

A fair bit is mentioned about this wonder product, on the forum, and I've got a few questions, from my usually-sceptical viewpoint, particularly in its use as a magic additive for brush painting.

 

What I'd like to find out is:

 

* How does it work?

* What does it actually do?

* What's in it?

 

and primarily...

 

* Why isn't there (or is there?) a set of similar products from commercial/industrial paint manufacturers - you know, the sort of thing that comes in a plain tin with a long hazard label and mysterious designation?

 

It's not a unique product by any means, have a google for 'paint conditioner'/'paint retarder'.

 

cheers,

Pete.

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I am currently in the process of re-painting my NB, the previous paint job was not good at all so i decided to go back to bare metal in places, three coats of undercoat and primer then quick buzz down with a 400 grade sanding disc and washed off with thinners, got some "Owatrol" and added it to the Dulux trade paint i was using for the top coats, i applied it with a foam roller and lightly "feathered" it off with a long haired dry brush.

 

The result........................

 

Owatrol always left me with a wet edge so i didnt end up with join lines

fantastic glossy finish

didnt use half as much paint as i thought i would

absolutely no drag whatsoever when applying by brush (im small areas where roller could not fit)

paint flows really smoothly and gives really good coverage

 

As to weather or not the "rust inhibitor" in the paint works, well ill let you know in a year or so, (still finishing the repaint but will put piccies on here when shes done, showing before and after pics)

 

so to add "is Owatrol any good?, in my opinion i would never paint a boat again without my trusty little orange tin of magic oil, not cheap though costs £15.50 for half a litre!!!!!!!!

 

As to your question regarding is their another product used in the industrial term, not sure but i do know that Rylard does someting similar not sure of the name or the price but i guess a look at their website may help

 

Nik

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... so to add "is Owatrol any good?, in my opinion i would never paint a boat again without my trusty little orange tin of magic oil, not cheap though costs £15.50 for half a litre!!!!!!!!

£23 for a litre here: http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/Owatro...onditioner.html

€24.50 for a litre (currently cheaper than the above) here: http://www.upkeepers.co.uk/Product/00059

 

Tony

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As to whether or not the "rust inhibitor" in the paint works, well ill let you know in a year or so,

don't think it acts as an inhibitor when added to paint. I believe it acts as an inhibitor a bit like vactan, but in this case by displacing any moisture in any existing rust when used on bare rusty steel.

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Thinking aloud really, but I know some people are fans and can add some useful info.

 

Never used it, as I've only ever done below gunwhale patching up, but Kiki's other half used it when hand painting their boat, and got a lovely finish. He thought it was worth the investment.

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I believe it acts as an inhibitor a bit like vactan...

Not really. Vactan actually converts the rust into something else (I forget what - I'm not a chemist) whereas Owatrol Oil creeps into all the little crevices (it's very runny) and then sets as a kind of varnish-like substance thereby excluding moisture and oxygen. Owatrol doesn't remove rust or convert it, it just covers it up.

 

Tony

 

ETA I'm talking about Owatrol's use neat here of course, not as a paint additive, of which I have no personal experience.

 

Where are all the professional painters with their opinions?

 

Richard

If I recall correctly, Phil once said that he'd never used Owatrol himself because he likes his paint just the way it is, so couldn't comment one way or the other. He did stress that thinners was a bad idea as it destroys the gloss and leads to premature breakdown of the paint, so in that respect an alternative additive 'might' be better if you feel you have to add something.

 

Hopefully he or one of the other pros will weigh in here some time soon :lol:

 

Tony

Edited by WotEver
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Not really. Vactan actually converts the rust into something else (I forget what - I'm not a chemist) whereas Owatrol Oil creeps into all the little crevices (it's very runny) and then sets as a kind of varnish-like substance thereby excluding moisture and oxygen. Owatrol doesn't remove rust or convert it, it just covers it up.

 

I agree. That's why I said 'a bit like Vactan'.

 

the Owatrol website says it also acts as an inhibitor when added to paint, but apart from possibly increasing the paint's impermeability to moisture I can't see how that can be the case.

 

if an untreated rusty surface is overpainted it is hard to imagine how the paint can act as a rust inhibitor.

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the Owatrol website says it also acts as an inhibitor when added to paint, but apart from possibly increasing the paint's impermeability to moisture I can't see how that can be the case.

 

if an untreated rusty surface is overpainted it is hard to imagine how the paint can act as a rust inhibitor.

Some zinc-bearing paints make that claim but I agree with you that I can't see how Owatrol could, apart from, as you say, increasing impermeability.

 

Tony

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Where are all the professional painters with their opinions?

 

Richard

Aye - there used to be a spate of them every time 'Paint' was mentioned, maybe they've moved on and got some new Kit, man.

 

Digressing a little - Someone mentioned 'Rust'

Vactan uses Tannic Acid as its active constituent, (this converts rust to Iron Tannate)

There is a worthwhile article here that cuts through all the snake-oil claims

 

Jenolite works in a similar way - although it contains some Phosphoric acid, (and creates a layer of Iron Phosphate )

I merely paint phosphoric acid solution direct onto ingrained rust, and overpaint with primer or red lead an hour later

Edited by Grace & Favour
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Not real red lead then. :lol:

 

Sorry, Chertsey - - no - not real red lead . . . .

 

Though, now I know of it - (thanks to Wot ever's dinky linky - - I might just try it . . though I'll have to start saving pennies first . . . . the reason I was using Phosphoric acid was to avoid paying over the odds for Jenolite - - - and I though Hammerite Red (lead oxide whatever) was dear enough . . . .

 

Hmmm - back to the drawing painting board

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Coo, that is dear. But I think I would use it again if I was planning to abandon a boat half full of water for twenty five years.

 

There doesn't seem to be anything modern to beat red lead in that sort of context, BUT I hate the stuff. Anyone using it today on a metal boat is being very inconsiderate to repairers who might come along in the future. If I suspect lead paints are present I'll get the full breathing apparatus out before using any hot processes (because the fumes produced are very dodgy), but although I've developed a 'feel' for such things over the years I still slip up occasionally.

 

I'm quite surprised that guy can offer the stuff for sale without all sorts of disclaimers and 'professional use only' etc etc.

 

Tim

 

What was the subject, by the way? I seem to have forgotten!

Edited by Timleech
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