PAINT FOR TOPSIDES

[Athy]

I guess that most of us who have steel boats use purpose-made yacht enamel such as Craftmaster or HMG for painting the topsides. I use the former on Trojan. However, I'm now starting to renovate my little Springer project boat. I've got as far as the primer (made by the unnervingly-named Indestructible Paint Co.) It occurs to me that if the metal has been primed there may be alternatives to these specialised paints, as the paint will have no contact with the metal. Are there reasons why a good quality outdoor gloss such as Weather Shield cannot be used on boats? I would be interested to hear from any of you who have used such paints on their boats and what the results were like.

Thanks

Mike

[alan_fincher]

Good question!

 

Obviously the experts are going to tell you it's not going to last as well.

 

I must admit that 35 years ago, we were using nothing more expensive than "Woolworth's Household Gloss".

 

I'm sure "difficult" colours like reds lasted longer using a basic paint like that than some examples I have seen done using "proper" boat paint.

 

There is a nicely painted boat near us, where we have got to know the owners, (an unusual Colecraft with a JP2). He assures me he never uses anything other than household paints.

 

Given how poorly some expensive narrow boat paint has survived on ours, (even the green has lost all shine after less than 3 years), I must say I'm tempted, if only on cost grounds!

 

(Incoming!).

[ChrisPy]

I suppose marine paints are formulated for salty environments, and there may be benefits in such an exposed environment.

I find it hard to believe that the best industrial or domestic external paints can be bettered for inland boats. The exposure conditions for a boat cannot be very different from your average garage door.

Unfortunately some colours, for example in the Weathershield range, are not very opaque. When I repaint this summer I will be going for a black and grey scheme, both of which are very opaque.

[gary4lw]

Just about to start painting mine will be using Teamac paint .

[Athy]

That's a good point, Chris. I'm going for cream with Cambridge blue bits. I guess this means that I would have to apply undercoot to the primer, then the gloss to the undercoat, rather than applyig marine enamel directly to the prime?

 

I have just noticed my typo, but I like the idea of "undercoot" (some of the best-preserved waterbirds use it) so I have let it stand.

[Laurie Booth]

I always use domestic paint.

[Albion]

snipped

I guess this means that I would have to apply undercoot to the primer, then the gloss to the undercoat, rather than applyig marine enamel directly to the prime?

 

Irrespective of the paint you use you should apply undercoat to the primer before top coat surely? Primer to get a good adhesion to the metal. Undercoat (2 coats) to build a surface that can be flatted prior to top coat (2 coats) to create the decorative and weather resistant surface is what I would be doing if it were mine. But, I'm no professional painter

Roger

[Athy]

Laurie, I think your photo speaks for itself - extremely smart!

Albion, I'm almost certainly even less of a pro than you, hence my asking for advice. When I've been touching up scuffs on Trojan i have sanded down, applied primer then applied top coat; the results look quite good.

Right, off to Homebase for cream and blue domestic outdoor gloss! Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated.

[Guest wanted]

Bright blue household gloss, wacked on with a roller, it has stood the test of time, apparently it looked crap when it went on and defiantly looks crap now!

 

To be fair, although ours has a well shoddy finish, the actual paint is showing no signs of falling off or fading. (Especially the bit’s on the window frames!)

[blackrose]

International 10 Year Gloss is another alternative - available from B&Q and half the price of International boat paints.

 

With 'household' paints you have to make sure it's a good quality flexible paint, so Weathershield is ok too. Personally I'd stay away from ordinary gloss paints because they can crack with themal expansion/contraction of steel.

[alan_fincher]

With 'household' paints you have to make sure it's a good quality flexible paint, so Weathershield is ok too. Personally I'd stay away from ordinary gloss paints because they can crack with themal expansion/contraction of steel.

Does boat steel really expand / contract in the heat more than say wood in domestic windows, door, soffits etc. "moves" with the changes of the weather ?

 

I don't claim to know for certain, but I rather doubt it.

[churchward]

Does boat steel really expand / contract in the heat more than say wood in domestic windows, door, soffits etc. "moves" with the changes of the weather ?

 

I don't claim to know for certain, but I rather doubt it.

Yes it does. Steel will also get hotter (much more) than wood when exposed to direct sun.

[Guest]

A few years ago we bought a little narrowboat which we renovated. It was rather delapidated except for the cabin exterior paintwork which looked reasonably smart. On finding a part tin in the gas locker, it turned out to be Hammerite Garage Door Enamel. I used a bit and it brushed really well (didn't know about the roller thing in those days.) I have no idea how the price compares with marine paint.

[RobinJ]

... It occurs to me that if the metal has been primed there may be alternatives to these specialised paints, as the paint will have no contact with the metal. Are there reasons why a good quality outdoor gloss such as Weather Shield cannot be used on boats? I would be interested to hear from any of you who have used such paints on their boats and what the results were like.

As it happens guess what we used!

Bit restricted in the colour range. Rollers and brushes nicely. Usually get a nice shiny finish. Goes over cheap undercoat and red oxide.

We originally bought it for the front door at home, seemed so suitable for the boat we got some more!

Only have to compare it to the 'non drip gloss' we used for the lining - needless to say it dripped.

The green does get affected by the sunlight with time, not such about the red.

[stuart]

I used Dulux Weather Shield on my boat, no problems so far (5 years on)

[Phil Speight]

Good question!

 

Obviously the experts are going to tell you it's not going to last as well.

 

I must admit that 35 years ago, we were using nothing more expensive than "Woolworth's Household Gloss".

 

I'm sure "difficult" colours like reds lasted longer using a basic paint like that than some examples I have seen done using "proper" boat paint.

 

There is a nicely painted boat near us, where we have got to know the owners, (an unusual Colecraft with a JP2). He assures me he never uses anything other than household paints.

 

Given how poorly some expensive narrow boat paint has survived on ours, (even the green has lost all shine after less than 3 years), I must say I'm tempted, if only on cost grounds!

 

(Incoming!).

Yo

You will be surprised to learn that I`m not joining in here to justify expensive paint . Everyone is welcome to make their own choice as far as I`m concerned. However - if your expensive paint has stopped performing after only 3 years I have to say that the problem probably lies elsewhere. Film thickness, amounts of additives or thinners , a hostile local environment and various other factors can cause a paint to chalk or fade far sooner than it should.