Frankieboy Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 HI, Im finally getting round to painting the engine bay and there is a pinkinsh paint currently in there (looks like it might be just primary) and also a thick black paint (looks like it might be bitumen). What should I use to paint the engine bay with? Would I be ok filling in the gaps with a similar bitumen paint or should I get the lot off and just use normal boat paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoldy Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 HI,Im finally getting round to painting the engine bay and there is a pinkinsh paint currently in there (looks like it might be just primary) and also a thick black paint (looks like it might be bitumen). What should I use to paint the engine bay with? Would I be ok filling in the gaps with a similar bitumen paint or should I get the lot off and just use normal boat paint? Presumably you refer to the engine 'ole in a cruiser stern? Hammerite original does the job, but looks 'orrible. I don't like working with the smooth variant. I use a light grey floor paint. Tough enough and looks clean. Only trouble is you have to wash it down regularly 'cos it shows the dirt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankieboy Posted November 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Presumably you refer to the engine 'ole in a cruiser stern? Hammerite original does the job, but looks 'orrible. I don't like working with the smooth variant. I use a light grey floor paint. Tough enough and looks clean. Only trouble is you have to wash it down regularly 'cos it shows the dirt Excellent thanks. And what paint would I use to tuch up the hull blacking where its got scratched? Would that be bitumen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Many people highly recommend Danobline Bilge paint from the "International" range. Not tried it yet myself, but if I ever get as enthusiastic as painting bilges, I think it's what I would probably try. A quick Google would suggest you can buy it in (at least) grey, red or white finishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
churchward Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Many people highly recommend Danobline Bilge paint from the "International" range. Not tried it yet myself, but if I ever get as enthusiastic as painting bilges, I think it's what I would probably try. A quick Google would suggest you can buy it in (at least) grey, red or white finishes. I used Danboline in our engine 'ole and it worked just fine. It covers very well and seems to have a good resistance to oil and diesel fuel when properly dry. It survives well when being knocked about so far working on the engine etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoldy Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 (edited) Excellent thanks. And what paint would I use to tuch up the hull blacking where its got scratched? Would that be bitumen? I use this.......CLICKY for waterline area and below, and for annual overall blacking, but have been known to use ordinary bitumen paint from Wilkinsons/Wilko for touching up above that (watching the pennies, see) Others may not agree, I'm sure they'll be along shortly. Edited to include regular docking practice! Edited November 23, 2009 by dave69700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Many people highly recommend Danobline Bilge paint from the "International" range. Not tried it yet myself, but if I ever get as enthusiastic as painting bilges, I think it's what I would probably try. A quick Google would suggest you can buy it in (at least) grey, red or white finishes. having two bad experiences, first with International High Obliteration Undercoat in the 70s and then a horrible micro-bubble issue allegedly related to non-existent quality control at a then respected paint brand taken over by their holding company I am wary. It also seems as if we are getting the odd report about their blacking failing off. I use, and am happy with, Blakes bilge and locker paint which can be obtained in several colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
churchward Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 having two bad experiences, first with International High Obliteration Undercoat in the 70s and then a horrible micro-bubble issue allegedly related to non-existent quality control at a then respected paint brand taken over by their holding company I am wary. It also seems as if we are getting the odd report about their blacking failing off. I use, and am happy with, Blakes bilge and locker paint which can be obtained in several colours. 1970's??? Do you know what year we are in now?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 1970's??? Do you know what year we are in now?. If a major company causes smaller outfits to loose much money because of shoddy documentation then it is probably wise to treat them with caution. This cock-up involved several boat hulls that required repainting and the latter one involved my own boat and a re-paint. However long ago it is it seems less than prudent to use or recommend such a company when other alternatives that one has been involved with for an equal time have managed to avoid such issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I've used Danboline for engine and locker painting, and found it to be excellent. It seems to be well immune to damage from oil, diesel and water, and is pretty good at resisting the wear and tear of everyday use. I found out (don't ask how) that a good way to paint a large floor area is to tip a large quantity out of the tin and then spread it around as quickly as you can with a roller or large brush (or whatever else comes quickly to hand!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb Innisfree Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I've used Danboline for engine and locker painting, and found it to be excellent. It seems to be well immune to damage from oil, diesel and water, and is pretty good at resisting the wear and tear of everyday use. I found out (don't ask how) that a good way to paint a large floor area is to tip a large quantity out of the tin and then spread it around as quickly as you can with a roller or large brush (or whatever else comes quickly to hand!) And then shout for help to be recued Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Speight Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) HI,Im finally getting round to painting the engine bay and there is a pinkinsh paint currently in there (looks like it might be just primary) and also a thick black paint (looks like it might be bitumen). What should I use to paint the engine bay with? Would I be ok filling in the gaps with a similar bitumen paint or should I get the lot off and just use normal boat paint? I suppose I may as well as say it. Craftmaster do a bilge paint that is oil resistant etc. We also know how to use it , what it is compatible with etc etc. One tip for free , which is more than you`ll get from any other paint company on a forum like this - beware , if that really is bitumen you`ve got in there, then solvent based bilge paint will not agree with it. So - find out for sure before you make a decision. Blakes , Rylards , International , ourselves etc all have suitable materials if it is a bilge paint you want - I`d be surprised if such as B&Q do though. New legislation comes into force on January 1st and only specialist companies will be exempt from it. You won`t have to mind us a making a profit though ! Phil Edited November 25, 2009 by Phil Speight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbybass Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 1970's??? Do you know what year we are in now?. I assumed they meant...1870's !!! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
churchward Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 I suppose I may as well as say it. Craftmaster do a bilge paint that is oil resistant etc. We also know how to use it , what it is compatible with etc etc. One tip for free , which is more than you`ll get from any other paint company on a forum like this - beware , if that really is bitumen you`ve got in there, then solvent based bilge paint will not agree with it. So - find out for sure before you make a decision. Blakes , Rylards , International , ourselves etc all have suitable materials if it is a bilge paint you want - I`d be surprised if such as B&Q do though. New legislation comes into force on January 1st and only specialist companies will be exempt from it. You won`t have to mind us a making a profit though !Phil Profit? Profit!! I dunno haven't I bought enough of the good stuff yet? I am glad you did mention it though as I wasn't aware and if it is as good as your Raddle and gloss enamel which I have used then I would expect it to be pretty damn good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil TNC Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 I've used Danboline for engine and locker painting, and found it to be excellent. It seems to be well immune to damage from oil, diesel and water, and is pretty good at resisting the wear and tear of everyday use. I found out (don't ask how) that a good way to paint a large floor area is to tip a large quantity out of the tin and then spread it around as quickly as you can with a roller or large brush (or whatever else comes quickly to hand!) SNAP! I "painted" Dramboline under Earnest's engine this way and the engine compartment paint has held up well for a decade. Maurice A will be so treated...other than I shall be there to make sure all* bracketry is welded to engine room, then painted before equipment is installed. all*...well most Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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