Replacement Flue Pipe and Chimney Collar

[churchward]

I am feeling somewhat chuffed with myself this morning as this weekend I managed to replace my Solid fuel (Morso Squirrel) fire flue pipe and chimney collar.

 

Our boat was built in 1995 and last winter we noticed that some tar was leaking down the outside of the flue pipe. I tried scraping off the old fire cement and renewing that but also notice how thin the pipe was around where it enters the collar (I managed to poke a screw driver through it in one place. So, decision made it had to come out.

 

I removed the pipe and collar together and on closer inspection of the collar there were to cracks in it above where the tar was leaking in. So I guess this was the reason. After a trip to the Chandlers I was kitted out with the necessary to fit some new pipe and a Chimney collar and several quid lighter! It never ceases to amaze me how expensive some of the Morso spares are (good stove though) I needed the 5 inch collar that goes into the top of the stove as this had cracked in half getting the old pipe out. The Morso part was £36!

 

Still a days work yesterday got it all fitted the hardest bit was measuring what length to cut the pipe and hacksaw a section off the 1.5 metres I had bought. I have used the modern high temperature goo as a sealant along with some stove rope to seal down the Morso collar and around the flue pipe in the chimney collar. This gave me some more wriggle room over more traditional methods I think but time will tell how effective this goo is. However we did use it on the installation of our multi fuel stove at home and that has been fine. I will use some fire cement around the base of the morso collar and flue adapter when we come to light for the first time as I think this helps where the temperature is highest.

 

It has not been fired up yet of course as the goo needs 3 days to cure first so we will see if all is sealed as it should be later. We have a CO detector of course and will place it by the fire for the first few times to see if anything is leaking.

 

It was a bit of a dirty job and meant dismantling the ceiling inside above the fire but worth it in that I think we should end up with something that will last longer and be safer than the state of the old flue and saved a few quid putting it in myself.

Edited August 3, 2009 by churchward

[AndyM]

I am feeling somewhat chuffed with myself this morning as this weekend I managed to replace my Solid fuel (Morso Squirrel) fire flue pipe and chimney collar.

 

Still a days work yesterday got it all fitted the hardest bit was measuring what length to cut the pipe and hacksaw a section off the 1.5 metres I had bought. I have used the modern high temperature goo as a sealant along with some stove rope to seal down the Morso collar and around the flue pipe in the chimney collar. This gave me some more wriggle room over more traditional methods I think but time will tell how effective this goo is. However we did use it on the installation of our multi fuel stove at home and that has been fine. I will use some fire cement around the base of the morso collar and flue adapter when we come to light for the first time as I think this helps where the temperature is highest.

 

It has not been fired up yet of course as the goo needs 3 days to cure first so we will see if all is sealed as it should be later. We have a CO detector of course and will place it by the fire for the first few times to see if anything is leaking.

 

Have done exactly the same as you - Goo is great!! 3 years down the line all is still as it was originally, when I come to replace the flue l will do exactly the same again. Works superbly. I have the Goo sealing around the collar base and flue adapter on the stove top as well - not a problem, has kept the seal perfectly over the last three years.

 

Andy

[churchward]

Have done exactly the same as you - Goo is great!! 3 years down the line all is still as it was originally, when I come to replace the flue l will do exactly the same again. Works superbly. I have the Goo sealing around the collar base and flue adapter on the stove top as well - not a problem, has kept the seal perfectly over the last three years.

 

Andy

Thanks for that good to know the high temp goo works OK even down at the stove end of the pipe.

[Mac of Cygnet]

Thanks for that good to know the high temp goo works OK even down at the stove end of the pipe.

 

What exactly is the name of the 'high temperature goo' you used? I have used the red sticky 'Plumba-flue' or some such name at the top end of the flue, but it's no good at stove level, where I've had to stick to fire cement and stove rope.

 

Mac

[churchward]

What exactly is the name of the 'high temperature goo' you used? I have used the red sticky 'Plumba-flue' or some such name at the top end of the flue, but it's no good at stove level, where I've had to stick to fire cement and stove rope.

 

Mac

I can't remember the name of the product. It is different in colour to the stuff we used at home and is indeed red. The label said it was OK for a continuous Temp of approx 350 deg. I thought that this may not be good enough for joints nearest the stove. I did use rope between the Morso collar and the stove and like you have thought about using the fire cement on the bottom joints when I come to light the fire for the first time. At the chimney colour end I used rope and fireproof packing then used the "goo" over the top of that. So hopefully there is some belt and braces effect going on as well.

Edited August 4, 2009 by churchward

[nb blackbeauty]

What exactly is the name of the 'high temperature goo' you used? I have used the red sticky 'Plumba-flue' or some such name at the top end of the flue, but it's no good at stove level, where I've had to stick to fire cement and stove rope.

 

Mac

 

Hi Churchward

 

Did the same job myself the week before including changing the fire with another (Morso Squirrel) but I was lucky that chimney collar was serviceable after replacing the flue pipe. The sealant you speak about is Plumba Flue I have used this to good effect. Not only sealing joints on the outside of the fire but when the screws holding the glass in the door snapped I used it to keep the glass in and this has stayed in place for over 3 years of constant use being a livaboard and is now a spares replacement for the new fire.

 

John

[churchward]

Hi Churchward

 

Did the same job myself the week before including changing the fire with another (Morso Squirrel) but I was lucky that chimney collar was serviceable after replacing the flue pipe. The sealant you speak about is Plumba Flue I have used this to good effect. Not only sealing joints on the outside of the fire but when the screws holding the glass in the door snapped I used it to keep the glass in and this has stayed in place for over 3 years of constant use being a livaboard and is now a spares replacement for the new fire.

 

John

That's very encouraging thanks.

[AndyM]

Thanks for that good to know the high temp goo works OK even down at the stove end of the pipe.

 

Forgot to mention also that it takes Thermolac stove paint very well which makes it all look very smooth and tidy.

 

I also put "Goo" around the blanked off flue outlet plate on the back of the stove, in the hope that if the back plate fixings become weak and the blanking plate were to fall out as has been the experience of other forum members, then this may stop that happening in the first place - a coat of Thermolac and you don't notice this has been done at all.

 

Andy

[blackrose]

I know lots of people use Plumba Flue on the stove but I'm not sure its really designed for the job (according to my chandler it should only be used at the top end of the flue to seal it where it exits the deck collar).

From previous threads on the subject it seems to work on stoves, but on some stoves it might be getting pretty close to its maximum temperature, so its best to keep an eye on it (and have a CO alarm!)

[churchward]

I know lots of people use Plumba Flue on the stove but I'm not sure its really designed for the job (according to my chandler it should only be used at the top end of the flue to seal it where it exits the deck collar).

From previous threads on the subject it seems to work on stoves, but on some stoves it might be getting pretty close to its maximum temperature, so its best to keep an eye on it (and have a CO alarm!)

Just shows there are always more than one opinion on the same issue.

 

The chandler I went to recommended the stuff (not sure if it is PLumba Flue but it is red) for all the flue joints top and bottom. But as per my OP I was and still am a bit doubtful as to the joints nearest the stove. I have used a mixture of rope (or some kind of fireproof packing) along with the "goo". When we are ready to fire the stove I may yet put some fire cement round as belt and braces on the lower joints and you can be assured I will indeed have the CO alarm close by.

[WotEver]

When we are ready to fire the stove I may yet put some fire cement round as belt and braces on the lower joints

 

Is it just our stove that cracks the fire cement around the bottom of the flue on a regular basis? I rake it all out, replace it, leave it to cure, light a fire, go for a cruise - it's cracked.

 

T.

[churchward]

Is it just our stove that cracks the fire cement around the bottom of the flue on a regular basis? I rake it all out, replace it, leave it to cure, light a fire, go for a cruise - it's cracked.

 

T.

The fire cement I have needs to be cured by heat rather than just curing cold by itself. So I put it on just before lighting up and bake it on that way. I have had no particular trouble with cracking in the past but sometimes the stove paint doesn't adhere to it that well.

[nb Innisfree]

Is it just our stove that cracks the fire cement around the bottom of the flue on a regular basis? I rake it all out, replace it, leave it to cure, light a fire, go for a cruise - it's cracked.

 

T.

 

I stuffed fibreglass exhaust bandage into the gap twixt pipe and stove collar, rammed it well in with a hammer and screwdriver (same with top collar) then filled it up with fire cement, been ok for 4 years. Is you fire bolted down and flue fixed rigidly with no movement? if not then perhaps vibration may be causing movement?

Edited August 5, 2009 by nb Innisfree

[WotEver]

I stuffed fibreglass exhaust bandage into the gap twixt pipe and stove collar, rammed it well in with a hammer and screwdriver (same with top collar) then filled it up with fire cement, been ok for 4 years. Is you fire bolted down and flue fixed rigidly with no movement? if not then perhaps vibration may be causing movement?

 

It could well be vibration... more investigation required methinks.

 

T