MtB Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 We have a Beta Marine BD3 engine in our boat. It's a three cylinder slow revving engine based on a Lister and built around 1992. Has 3600 hours on the log, and smokes to varying degrees all the time. Is this normal? The smoke is pale to mid grey and is not excessive at slow cruisng speed, say 600rpm, but is distinctly noticable. At higher engine speeds it is worse, and if the throttle is opened quickly the smoke to dark grey/black as the engine speed rises, then clears back to pale grey. Repeated lungfuls of smoke when cruising into the wind are turning into a bit of a problem. Do I need to service/repair this engine, or get a taller exhaust chimney? Or shut up and grin and bear it, it's part of the charm of trad-style engines... Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickhlx Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 We have a Beta Marine BD3 engine in our boat. It's a three cylinder slow revving engine based on a Lister and built around 1992. Has 3600 hours on the log, and smokes to varying degrees all the time. Is this normal? The smoke is pale to mid grey and is not excessive at slow cruisng speed, say 600rpm, but is distinctly noticable. At higher engine speeds it is worse, and if the throttle is opened quickly the smoke to dark grey/black as the engine speed rises, then clears back to pale grey. Repeated lungfuls of smoke when cruising into the wind are turning into a bit of a problem. Do I need to service/repair this engine, or get a taller exhaust chimney? Or shut up and grin and bear it, it's part of the charm of trad-style engines... Cheers, Mike Cant help with whether its normal or not, but it would not be acceptable to me. I associate a smoking engine with something wrong - either worn cylinders / valve guides etc allowing oil to pass and be burnt, or over-fuelling, signifying incorrect injector pump settings thus delivering/using/wasting too much fuel, or poor injectors not atomising fuel efficiently... Fuel is too expensive to waste now, apart from the fumes being unpleasant ( possibly dangerous ?) to breathe for any length of time... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 We have a Beta Marine BD3 engine in our boat. It's a three cylinder slow revving engine based on a Lister and built around 1992. Has 3600 hours on the log, and smokes to varying degrees all the time. Is this normal?The engine is actually based on a Ford tractor engine. The Lister version, based on the same core engine, was called a CRK3 IIRC. The smoke is pale to mid grey and is not excessive at slow cruisng speed, say 600rpm, but is distinctly noticable. At higher engine speeds it is worse, and if the throttle is opened quickly the smoke to dark grey/black as the engine speed rises, then clears back to pale grey. Repeated lungfuls of smoke when cruising into the wind are turning into a bit of a problem. Do I need to service/repair this engine, or get a taller exhaust chimney? Or shut up and grin and bear it, it's part of the charm of trad-style engines... Mild mid grey isn't much to worry about. The blackening when the throttle is opened quickly is normal as the governor tries to catch up. Not too sure about the extra at higher revs though. From your description, and it is difficult to diagnose without seeing it, it doesn't sound too severe or unusual at the lower speeds. If you've got a cutter on the top of a tall exhaust stack then remove that and the smoke will be thrown vertically upwards and past head height. If you have this type of exhaust though beware using it in tunnels unless you want to be covered in brick dust, spiders and soot. Been there, done it etc. Roger Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denboy Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 If you have this type of exhaust though beware using it in tunnels unless you want to be covered in brick dust, spiders and soot. Been there, done it etc. snap looked like a black and white minstrel when i came out of harecastle folk at the other end were in hysterics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted May 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Thanks for your replies everyone. Yes that's the engine. Its a marinised Lister CRK3 according to the original Beta Marine sales leaflet I have here. Reading the instruction manual, the maintenance section says clean or replace the injector nozzles every 500 hours if the exhaust is dirty. How does one clean injectors, or determine they need replacing if cleaning makes no difference? I imagine if the smoke is caused by lubrication oil being burned the sump oil level would drop and it would be difficult to start. Ours starts first try every time no matter what the conditions, even in sub-zero temperatures after being unused for weeks, and the oil level has barely changed in a hundred or so hours of running since we got the boat, so I'm inclined to suspect injectors or overfueling. How would I check the adjustment of the fuel pump? Or is that a question for the manufacturers? The manual is silent on the point! Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Hi Mike The injectors and injector pump are a job for a specialist with calibration equipment. I suggest that you ask around or look in Yellow pages. A competent mechanic should be able to remove the pump and injectors for you and refit them after recalibration. Not sure where you are, I know a treasure of a man near Stoke on Trent who's a whizz and straight as a die, he tends to specialise in vintage stuff, but if you PM me I'll let you have a contact No. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 If you have this type of exhaust though beware using it in tunnels unless you want to be covered in brick dust, spiders and soot. Been there, done it etc. snap looked like a black and white minstrel when i came out of harecastle folk at the other end were in hysterics You also get bombarded by acorn etc in the Autumn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Nibble Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Worth checking that the air filter is clean, and if it's an oil bath type, filled to the correct level and the oil is not saturated with crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Thanks for your replies everyone. Yes that's the engine. Its a marinised Lister CRK3 according to the original Beta Marine sales leaflet I have here. Reading the instruction manual, the maintenance section says clean or replace the injector nozzles every 500 hours if the exhaust is dirty. How does one clean injectors, or determine they need replacing if cleaning makes no difference? I imagine if the smoke is caused by lubrication oil being burned the sump oil level would drop and it would be difficult to start. Ours starts first try every time no matter what the conditions, even in sub-zero temperatures after being unused for weeks, and the oil level has barely changed in a hundred or so hours of running since we got the boat, so I'm inclined to suspect injectors or overfueling. How would I check the adjustment of the fuel pump? Or is that a question for the manufacturers? The manual is silent on the point! Cheers, Mike As Dave has already said injector cleaning and pop testing and pump rebuilding/calibration isn't a DIY job. You should be able to find diesel specialists in the Yellow Pages. Reading/assessing smoke colours can be difficult to the untrained eye but the basics are:- Blue smoke - burning oil Light grey to none - no probs Dark grey to black - Restricted air or over-fuelling or fouled prop causing excessive load White - Misfiring, unburnt hydrocarbons (ie fuel), but can also be combustion of anti-freeze coolant mixture if you have gasket problems etc. Then you get into the realms of mixtures of the above and it becomes very difficult to assess, particulalry to the untrained eye/nose. If you've never had the injectors serviced before in 3600 hours then I would start there as that is the cheaper option. Pump servicing and recalibrating is usually more expensive. If you remove the injectors check that you have got out all the washers and tip seals that might exist and ensure that you have a supply of new ones when you refit. Roger Thanks for your replies everyone. How would I check the adjustment of the fuel pump? Or is that a question for the manufacturers? The manual is silent on the point! Cheers, Mike Mike, I've just noticed that you seem to be based in Reading. In that case have a word with R A Engineering: http://www.raengineering.co.uk/. The proprietor (Ed Dodwell) used to be a good mate of mine years ago when I ran my own Bosch Service Agency and the company is as straight as they come. They don't specialise in diesel but they will be able to advise you where a reliable diesel specialist is in the area. Worth a try, I think. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 As Dave has already said injector cleaning and pop testing and pump rebuilding/calibration isn't a DIY job. You should be able to find diesel specialists in the Yellow Pages. Reading/assessing smoke colours can be difficult to the untrained eye but the basics are:- Blue smoke - burning oil Light grey to none - no probs Dark grey to black - Restricted air or over-fuelling or fouled prop causing excessive load White - Misfiring, unburnt hydrocarbons (ie fuel), but can also be combustion of anti-freeze coolant mixture if you have gasket problems etc. Then you get into the realms of mixtures of the above and it becomes very difficult to assess, particulalry to the untrained eye/nose. If you've never had the injectors serviced before in 3600 hours then I would start there as that is the cheaper option. Pump servicing and recalibrating is usually more expensive. If you remove the injectors check that you have got out all the washers and tip seals that might exist and ensure that you have a supply of new ones when you refit. Roger Mike, I've just noticed that you seem to be based in Reading. In that case have a word with R A Engineering: http://www.raengineering.co.uk/. The proprietor (Ed Dodwell) used to be a good mate of mine years ago when I ran my own Bosch Service Agency and the company is as straight as they come. They don't specialise in diesel but they will be able to advise you where a reliable diesel specialist is in the area. Worth a try, I think. Roger I think R A engineering are now pretty much car focused but I use Thames Valley Electro-Diesel near the new South Reading Screwfix & Morrisons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Worth checking that the air filter is clean, and if it's an oil bath type, filled to the correct level and the oil is not saturated with crap. Hear him! Check your air filter. A dirty one lets less air through and you get unburned fuel in the exhaust. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 I think R A engineering are now pretty much car focused but I use Thames Valley Electro-Diesel near the new South Reading Screwfix & Morrisons. Of course, I should have remembered that you're in that neck of the woods Tony and would be bound to know someone in that area. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 The correct way to clean injectors is to put them in a sonic cleaning bath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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