Engine bay covers

[Smelly]

Well the engine boards covering the engine bay on our cruiser stern are getting a bit tired and it's getting close to replacement time. The board that's down is ply with some kind of textured synthetic covering, I don't know what it's called and would be grateful of the knowledge.

 

However I've seen many different covers, and would be interested to hear recommendations as to how I might proceed.

[David Schweizer]

Well the engine boards covering the engine bay on our cruiser stern are getting a bit tired and it's getting close to replacement time. The board that's down is ply with some kind of textured synthetic covering, I don't know what it's called and would be grateful of the knowledge.

 

However I've seen many different covers, and would be interested to hear recommendations as to how I might proceed.

The board most commonly found on boats is called Hexagrip, and can usually be obtained from the larger chandleries.

http://w3.upm-kymmene.com/upm/internet/cms...exa_grip_en.pdf

 

However it may be worth searching local sheet timber merchants who also tend to stock similar (if not the same) stuff and may be cheaper, they will probably also have the facility to cut the boards for you.

[Smelly]

The board most commonly found on boats is called Hexagrip, and can usually be obtained from the larger chandleries.

http://w3.upm-kymmene.com/upm/internet/cms...exa_grip_en.pdf

 

However it may be worth searching local sheet timber merchants who also tend to stock similar (if not the same) stuff and may be cheaper, they will probably also have the facility to cut the boards for you.

 

Thank you... I've bought a lot of stuff from Birmingham Boards so may give them a try, however a more permanent solution, that won't need renewing every 3 or 4 years is what I'm minded to attempt. Aluminium's probably not a good idea because of the the dissimilar metals business, steel strong enough would probably be very heavy, although at this stage I'm open to any and all solutions.

[David Schweizer]

Thank you... I've bought a lot of stuff from Birmingham Boards so may give them a try, however a more permanent solution, that won't need renewing every 3 or 4 years is what I'm minded to attempt. Aluminium's probably not a good idea because of the the dissimilar metals business, steel strong enough would probably be very heavy, although at this stage I'm open to any and all solutions.

I you buy the proper stuff it should last a lot longer than 3 or 4 years, It should be based on either Marine Ply or WBP board, which should last at leas ten years or longer. One thing you should do is seal all the edges with Yacht varnish every couple of years. An alternaive is to coat the edges with glass fibre resin, It's a bit messy and you have to work quite fast before the stuff starts to cure, but it will never let the water in. I have used that method with sucess on the bottom edges of the Cratch board on my boat.

Edited April 5, 2009 by David Schweizer

[Keeping Up]

My Hexagrip deck boards lasted 12 years before they needed replacing - and even then I could probably have squeezed an extra couple of years out of them. One of their additioanl advantages is that they muffle the noise of the engine much better than metal boards would do.

[canalchris]

Hexagrip or whatever its name and spelling is , is the business, HOWEVER it is horrendously expensive. Ihelped a friend re-cover his cruiser stern engine boards 2 years ago and the price then was in excess of £100 per 8'x4' sheet. Why dont you think about using domestic garden decking as a replacement. If you fastened the boards together underneath with screwed battens and used nonails or silicon mastic as a waterproof joint sealer. OR why not power plane the tread off the decking, you would then end up with tanalised timber deck that should last for donkeys years.CHEERS, CHRIS

Edited April 5, 2009 by canalchris

[NBMike]

Its the same type of sheet material thats used for flooring in the back of trucks. May be cheaper going through Commercial vehicle suppliers rather than chandlers.

 

 

Canalchris - Surely if you power-planed off the treads you would also be planing off the tanalising treatment on one side of the boards, wouldn't you?

[Ex- Member]

Hexagrip or whatever its name and spelling is , is the business, HOWEVER it is horrendously expensive. Ihelped a friend re-cover his cruiser stern engine boards 2 years ago and the price then was in excess of £100 per 8'x4' sheet. Why dont you think about using domestic garden decking as a replacement. If you fastened the boards together underneath with screwed battens and used nonails or silicon mastic as a waterproof joint sealer. OR why not power plane the tread off the decking, you would then end up with tanalised timber deck that should last for donkeys years.CHEERS, CHRIS

 

 

This is what we used. Easy to remove and replace as it's sectioned, you can also choose what colour you want, the Hexigrip board tends to be only Black or brown. We used sadolin external coloured wood preserver, came up really well.

 

I noted Wicks advert for decking using older trees for their decking, doesnt warp or crack.

 

Saying that we bought B&Q's decking it did shrink somewhat but i was prepared for this so never fitted them immediately ant let them hang around the boat for a few months before fitting. However none of it warped or cracked so a very good result.

 

They're loos fitting and simply lift out, they are laid on 2" angle, i coated the angle with 2" strips of 5mm thick neoprene so they don't clatter, they settled in really well and walking on them you would never guess they were laid loose. I did add some hardwood centre support struts between the 2" angle to shorten the span to reduce any flexing issues with the board, again all designed to simply slot in and be easily removable.

 

 

Edited April 5, 2009 by Julynian

[RLWP]

My Hexagrip deck boards lasted 12 years before they needed replacing - and even then I could probably have squeezed an extra couple of years out of them. One of their additioanl advantages is that they muffle the noise of the engine much better than metal boards would do.

 

Our sorely abused and ancient boards have been on the boat six years with us and were looking tired when we bought the boat. They have a pretty good life.

 

Richard

 

Let me know what price you get quoted please. We will eventually have to replace our boards before soemone drops through...

[sociable_hermit]

There's a guy down at Todmorden guillotine lock reckons his are made of Yak wool and golden thread, strengthened with coconut fibres and sewn by an ace team of Flying Teapot Pixies.

 

Which is fair enough.

[alan_fincher]

I seem to recall that Moley thought that garden decking boards would be suitable for flooring over an engine, but had to abandon the idea because, (I think I recall), they changed shape so dramatically with the climate.

 

It would be worth asking him before going down that route, I think.

[Smelly]

I you buy the proper stuff it should last a lot longer than 3 or 4 years, It should be based on either Marine Ply or WBP board, which should last at leas ten years or longer. One thing you should do is seal all the edges with Yacht varnish every couple of years. An alternaive is to coat the edges with glass fibre resin, It's a bit messy and you have to work quite fast before the stuff starts to cure, but it will never let the water in. I have used that method with sucess on the bottom edges of the Cratch board on my boat.

 

It's the sealing the edges bit that's amiss.

 

One trusted that the sadly defunct Liverpool Boat Co would have advised us about the care of such things however... I'll leave that hanging, much akin to greasing the Vetus "greaseless" stern gland. My mate's 5 year old deckboards are in a much sadder state than mine so if not for this advice I would be firmly of the opinion that boards of a different material would be better.

 

 

There's a guy down at Todmorden guillotine lock reckons his are made of Yak wool and golden thread, strengthened with coconut fibres and sewn by an ace team of Flying Teapot Pixies.

 

Which is fair enough.

 

Does Daevid Allen live down the engine 'ole perchance? If not please forward yer man's phone number as I may have a proposition for him...

[blueprince]

Why not use a trampoline? It would add much to the enjoyment of the experience and could be used to reach the bank in deep locks.

 

No liability will be accepted for any injuries resulting in the event of this idea being used.

[Keeping Up]

Why not use a trampoline? It would add much to the enjoyment of the experience and could be used to reach the bank in deep locks.

 

No liability will be accepted for any injuries resulting in the event of this idea being used.

Brilliant! Best laugh I've had for weeks!

[Smelly]

Why not use a trampoline? It would add much to the enjoyment of the experience and could be used to reach the bank in deep locks.

 

No liability will be accepted for any injuries resulting in the event of this idea being used.

 

You've got me thinking now... could we adequately string it betwixt the u bar and still get the... ahem "bounce" to get out of, for example, Red Bull lock on the T&M. If so I'm game!

[blueprince]

You could try using a pogo stick in conjunction with the trampoline if you failed to reach the desired height, or those weird bouncy boots favored of Californians.

 

Please inform me of your attempt as I want to be there with a camcorder.

[Bill]

It's the sealing the edges bit that's amiss.

 

One trusted that the sadly defunct Liverpool Boat Co would have advised us about the care of such things however... I'll leave that hanging, much akin to greasing the Vetus "greaseless" stern gland. My mate's 5 year old deckboards are in a much sadder state than mine so if not for this advice I would be firmly of the opinion that boards of a different material would be better.

 

 

My liverpool boat boards are 4 years old and have gone soft in places where the water appears to have got in via the edges (I'd assumed they had been sealed, aparently not). I was going to patch them but the thought of jumping back on board and going through down to the engine made me think again.

 

I'm just in the process of cutting my new boards to shape. I'm using a product called Beartex (http://www.advancedtechnicalpanels.co.uk/ProductDetail.82.html) and it seems much denser than the original boards. I'll be sealing the edges with a few coats of epoxy so hopefully they will last longer than the originals. Quite pricey though, cost me just under £55 for an 8x4 sheet (delivered).

 

I'll post some piccies when I've finished putting them on (after next weekend).

[RLWP]

I'm just in the process of cutting my new boards to shape. I'm using a product called Beartex (http://www.advancedtechnicalpanels.co.uk/ProductDetail.82.html) and it seems much denser than the original boards. I'll be sealing the edges with a few coats of epoxy so hopefully they will last longer than the originals. Quite pricey though, cost me just under £55 for an 8x4 sheet (delivered).

 

I'll post some piccies when I've finished putting them on (after next weekend).

 

£55 sounds a good price. Why did you choose Beartex instead of the Hexagon stuff?

 

Richard

[Bill]

£55 sounds a good price. Why did you choose Beartex instead of the Hexagon stuff?

 

Richard

 

No technical reason, I just liked the finish pattern on the Beartex better.

 

Bill

[RLWP]

No technical reason, I just liked the finish pattern on the Beartex better.

 

Bill

 

Fair enough. It is available in different colours too. Grey would be nice.

 

Richard

[Martin Kedian]

Fair enough. It is available in different colours too. Grey would be nice.

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

If you would like steel ones I can make and fit for you Regards Martin