Tug Draught

[Jason Wilson and Family]

From what I understand, the old tugs were of heavy displacement and had lower gunwales as a result. This also meant a deeper draught. It was all part of being able to swing the bigger prop.

 

Now, is deeper draught boat restricted in the areas it can travel? If so, how bad?

 

If there is restriction is there anything that could be done to replicate the lines without a ridiculously tall cabin?

 

Trying to figure out what I'd have to trade if I eventually tracked down a second hand tug or a replica. I love the lines, I need the headroom, I'd like to be able to use the canals.

[Proper Job]

From what I understand, the old tugs were of heavy displacement and had lower gunwales as a result. This also meant a deeper draught. It was all part of being able to swing the bigger prop.

 

Now, is deeper draught boat restricted in the areas it can travel? If so, how bad?

 

If there is restriction is there anything that could be done to replicate the lines without a ridiculously tall cabin?

 

Trying to figure out what I'd have to trade if I eventually tracked down a second hand tug or a replica. I love the lines, I need the headroom, I'd like to be able to use the canals.

A deep draught boat has advantages and diss-advantages. It depends what you are prepared to trade?

 

Ocelot draws 3 feet and throws a 26" prop.

 

Because of the deep draught, she's very heavy. Advantage - she tends to stay where she's put. Wind etc have very little effect.

 

She does drag her arse along the bottom, but weight x big prop means she cuts her own channel. You will never realise the junk at the bottom of the canal until you have a deep draught boat!

 

Getting alongside anything but a recently pilled bank is virtually a no-no. You get used to the gang plank. leaving the stern 'out' and at times; living on an angle because one side is on the mud.

 

You do tend to have to go a little slower than 'other' boats as your moving a lot of water. Passing moored boats really does have to be at tick over.

 

Would I change her - no

[denboy]

I am deep too the only trouble ive had is the llangollen gave up at wrenbury and turned back tha guy who had it built was 6ft 4in so the cabin is higher than most bcnb tugs and a lot of folks do not realize that you are deep when you stay mid channel and can not always get out of the way when passing

[bridgit]

A deep draught boat has advantages and diss-advantages. It depends what you are prepared to trade?

 

Ocelot draws 3 feet and throws a 26" prop.

 

Because of the deep draught, she's very heavy. Advantage - she tends to stay where she's put. Wind etc have very little effect.

 

She does drag her arse along the bottom, but weight x big prop means she cuts her own channel. You will never realise the junk at the bottom of the canal until you have a deep draught boat!

 

Getting alongside anything but a recently pilled bank is virtually a no-no. You get used to the gang plank. leaving the stern 'out' and at times; living on an angle because one side is on the mud.

 

You do tend to have to go a little slower than 'other' boats as your moving a lot of water. Passing moored boats really does have to be at tick over.

 

Would I change her - no

I second that, also been tutted for coming out of locks too slow as been on the bottom

[MoominPapa]

What Steve said, plus remember that what you've gained in water draft you've lost in air draft. Meleleuca is 2' 10" and so far we've not found anywhere impassable. On the Middle Level there are lots of low bridges so the low profile "sports car look" is useful. It's all pretty deep too, apart from Well Creek: that was slow, but we got there in the end :-)

 

Once I learned, I've come to enjoy a heavy boat which keeps going where you put it and takes a long time to accelerates and slow down. I also really like having a big prop: I certainly don't want to go back to an egg-whisk.

 

 

Cheers,

 

MP.

[Athy]

We moor on Well Creek. I do not know our boat's exact draught, but as we have a 22" prop I guess it's fairly deep. Although the water level does fluctuate, particularly when a lot of boats have gone through Marmont Priory Lock (we are about half a mile to the top side of the lock), we never have problems once we have left our mooring. However, on occasion we have started the boat up and cheerfully pushed off from the mooring, only for the boat to stay exactly where she is with the prop churning up the water. We then look fairly daft, especially if we have guests on board! Generally a push with the boathook and a liberal sprinkling of Anglo-Saxonisms does the trick.

Do remove your stove chimney on Well Creek, otherwise Upwell Church Bridge (which is lower at the church end than at the other end) may do the job for you. I know this from bitter experience.

[Jason Wilson and Family]

Sounds good then, nothing I'd hurt to lose and a few things I'd be happy to gain. On the technical side of things, what about them makes them sit so low. Near as I can tell there is no difference in the general shape of it all but I know there has to be something. Do they just have deeper sides or more ballast or both?

[Liam]

I don't think the newer, more "modern" tugs have that much below the water, I'm guessing probably as much as the common modern narrowboat, the only difference being that the level of the gunnel is much lower, giving them the impression of having alot under the water because of this - but it's actually the cabin is much taller.

 

I don't know what other boats are like but a mate of mine with a Charlie Cox Tug is not the most comfortable boat to sit in as the gunnels are so low, and the tumble home of the cabin starts to come in much lower than usual.

[Jason Wilson and Family]

Right, that's what I want to avoid. I've got Graham Booth's Narrowboat builders book and that was what he warned of with the newer 'tug' replicas. That's why I want to find out how they should be built so that if I'm ever that fortunate I can get it done right.

[DHutch]

Its a trade off.

 

If you built a boat to a 4ft draft, it will be a right pain to get to a lot of the less used waterways, basicaly anywhere of the beaten track.

 

However, emilyanne was built with a 2ft9 draught (pretty much flat throughout) so she could swing a 26inch prop, negating the need for a gearbox to speed up the prop for the otherwise very slow engine.

 

I dont know how much deeper i would want to go. But so far there is no where shes not been able to get, and we've tested a lot of the system.

 

And as you say, you can get head room, without a stupid amount of cabin, which is as much a liabilty for geting places anywhy. Harecastle, Standedge, Froghall. To name a few we've done recently.

 

Im 6ft2 and can stand up with clearence anywhere in the boat. Which is nice.

 

 

Daniel

[Athy]

Was that Charlie Fox, Liam? I've seen plenty of his boats but didn't know that he had ever built a tug-style one - though he did rebuild the gorgeous 'Emerald' which I came fairly close to buying earlier this year.

It was explained to me when we were having our boat, which has tuggish tendencies, built, that fewer low-slung sports-model style tugs are built these days because the bottom of the gas locker must be above the waterline. So if you wanted that sleek look you'd need a gas-free boat.

[johnthebridge]

Right, that's what I want to avoid. I've got Graham Booth's Narrowboat builders book and that was what he warned of with the newer 'tug' replicas. That's why I want to find out how they should be built so that if I'm ever that fortunate I can get it done right.

When David Harris built Hanuman (a 62' tug based on a Cowburn and Cowpar boat) for me in 2000, he built her with nearly 5' hull sides. She drew about 2'11", and was ballasted almost level. Her cabin sides were a "normal" height (can't rember what exactly), and she's one of the best looking modern craft of that type that you'll ever see. Bar none. She had a 5LW in her, so she went quite well, although I hear that that's been replaced with a mere 3LW. Shame. I should add that I'm 6'4" and she had more than enough headroom for me inside.

Edited October 24, 2008 by johnthebridge

[Jason Wilson and Family]

Was that Charlie Fox, Liam? I've seen plenty of his boats but didn't know that he had ever built a tug-style one - though he did rebuild the gorgeous 'Emerald' which I came fairly close to buying earlier this year.

It was explained to me when we were having our boat, which has tuggish tendencies, built, that fewer low-slung sports-model style tugs are built these days because the bottom of the gas locker must be above the waterline. So if you wanted that sleek look you'd need a gas-free boat.

 

Ah, now that's interesting. Is there anything stopping me from moving the gas locker to a compartment say, built into the back of the engine room for example? As long as it is vented does it matter if the compartment is integral to the cabin? Of course, with a raised tug deck perhaps there would be some room available there.

 

When David Harris built Hanuman (a 62' tug based on a Cowburn and Cowpar boat) for me in 2000, he built her with nearly 5' hull sides. She drew about 2'11", and was ballasted almost level. Her cabin sides were a "normal" height (can't rember what exactly), and she's one of the best looking modern craft of that type that you'll ever see. Bar none. She had a 5LW in her, so she went quite well, although I hear that that's been replaced with a mere 3LW. Shame. I should add that I'm 6'4" and she had more than enough headroom for me inside.

Is your boat gas-free John? If not where'd your gas bottles fit in?

[johnthebridge]

Ah, now that's interesting. Is there anything stopping me from moving the gas locker to a compartment say, built into the back of the engine room for example? As long as it is vented does it matter if the compartment is integral to the cabin? Of course, with a raised tug deck perhaps there would be some room available there.

 

 

Is your boat gas-free John? If not where'd your gas bottles fit in?

No. I used 6kg bottles in a gas locker that had a base that was higher than normal. You could put 4 or 5 iof these in, but having said that the only gas appliance on board was the Taylor's cooker. You can fit a gas locker into the cabin side, but of course that requires fairly major surgery if carried out to an existing boat. The other place I've put them is into the front bulkhead of a boat with a flush deck, one either side of the front doors.

[Athy]

I think that the gas locker must by law be outside the living area of the boat. Some cruiser-back boats have their gas locker just behind the rear bulkhead, but such a stern would perhaps be inappropriate on a tug-style n/b. But perhaps situating it just forward of the front bulkhead, on the tug deck, might be a possibility?

[Liam]

Athy,

 

Nope, not Charlie Fox who I'm guessing is responsible for the easily recognisable "Fox Boats" ?

 

Charlie Cox isn't building any more, to be honest I'm not sure whether he is still with us, but the boats he built sort of look like one of those by Black Country Narrowboats. I'll be down on the moorings this weekend so I shall see if I can take a picture of it.

[Athy]

Thanks Liam, I have learned something new today - I had not heard of Cox the boatbuilder. Yes, Charlie Fox is the founder of C.T. Fox and co. whose boats have that imposing (and surely window-busting) prow like a Viking longboat. He's still around, retired now but still trots around the yard "getting in the way" as one of his family told me recently!

I look forward to seeing the photo of the Cox boat, that would be kind of you.

Train-spotting note: all Fox boats have their build number stamped on to the floor of the well deck. They've reached about no. 110 now.

[charles123]

I got round the gas bottle problem by fabricating a raised hatch quite easy to do this means I have a full size bottle to use and puny one as a spare

regading the draft, while not as deep as some you have to be aware of it and it does ground from time to time. As for the weight, at 20 tons, to get the boat deep in the water it is very stable and does not rock from side to side as you move around or someone gets off or on. I find stopping more of a problem as you have to think well in advance

 

 

 

 

[Athy]

What a handsome boat. Who built her?

Come to think of it, some tug-style boats have dummy "forecabins" which are in fact gas lockers.

[carlt]

I have a full size bottle to use and puny one as a spare

Sorry how deep draughted is she??

 

Edited October 24, 2008 by carlt

[Liam]

Or, alternatively, the motor (converted small star class woolwich) Pavo has a bow cabin but uses it to house the generator. The "dummy" chimney is in fact an exhaust. The boat is gas free so makes sense to dedicate a space to such a thing...

[charles123]

What a handsome boat. Who built her?

Come to think of it, some tug-style boats have dummy "forecabins" which are in fact gas lockers.

 

 

Built by Tim Tyler and me!, planning a replacement at the moment, similar, but a lot more steelwork detailing eg recessed panels, longer tug deck, 2LW engine offset, hydraulic drive, and bow thruster, looking for a Lucas P100 vintage headlamp at the moment if anyone has one I would be interested

[Liam]

Charles, you missed rivets off your list

[RLWP]

Built by Tim Tyler and me!, planning a replacement at the moment, similar, but a lot more steelwork detailing eg recessed panels, longer tug deck, 2LW engine offset, hydraulic drive, and bow thruster, looking for a Lucas P100 vintage headlamp at the moment if anyone has one I would be interested

 

Apparently these people make them!: VHR

 

Richard

 

I wasn't brave enough to check the price..

Edited October 24, 2008 by RLWP

[charles123]

Apparently these people make them!: VHR

 

Richard

 

I wasn't brave enough to check the price..

 

thanks for that the price is not on there but its going to be in the hundreds which is too much for me, They come up on ebay of course and thats where I will probably get one for less than £100, the P100 is the only 12" headlamp I am aware of, I dont want one of the Francis type