Masking Tape

[Glennbrown]

I need to do some coach lines and need to get hold of the plastic masking tape

 

Normal tape allows the paint to creep under the tape giving a poor effect when removed!

 

Anybody know?-Thanks

[Chris-B]

I need to do some coach lines and need to get hold of the plastic masking tape

 

Normal tape allows the paint to creep under the tape giving a poor effect when removed!

 

Anybody know?-Thanks

 

 

Give Phil at Craftmaster a call

 

Chris

 

( After all if it's good enough for him us mere mortals may be able to use it )

[Bojangles]

I need to do some coach lines and need to get hold of the plastic masking tape

 

Normal tape allows the paint to creep under the tape giving a poor effect when removed!

 

Anybody know?-Thanks

 

If you do a google for 'fine line masking tape' I think you'll find what you're looking for.

Edited September 2, 2008 by Bojangles

[Serendipity]

Did mine with 3M fine line tape. It's plastic, and designed for that kind of thing, although to be sure of no creep, run your fingernail along the entire edge to get a good adhesion.

[NB Phoenix]

Did mine with 3M fine line tape. It's plastic, and designed for that kind of thing, although to be sure of no creep, run your fingernail along the entire edge to get a good adhesion.

 

And with most masking tapes don't leave them on any longer than necessary, it can be a ba****d to remove after a day or two.

[Serendipity]

And with most masking tapes don't leave them on any longer than necessary, it can be a ba****d to remove after a day or two.

 

And quite possibly take some of the new paint with it . Take it off as soon as the paint is touch dry, by pulling it back on itself, not simply lifting away.

 

Oh, the other fun thing is getting the line straight.

Edited September 2, 2008 by Serendipity

[stuart23]

If you are worried about paint creeping under the tape, an idea I've used when spraying is to paint a layer of quick drying clear varnish over the edge of the tape before painting the colour.....any creeping will be done by the clear varnish and not the colour

Edited September 2, 2008 by stuart23

[churchward]

I need to do some coach lines and need to get hold of the plastic masking tape

 

Normal tape allows the paint to creep under the tape giving a poor effect when removed!

 

Anybody know?-Thanks

 

Any car factor place selling spares and paint should be able to sell you some low tack lining tape. It is far superior to ordinary masking tape as it shouldn't allow bleeding of paint under the tape and doesn't leave much in the way of glue marks on the paint. The tape I am thinking of is plastic and often green or red colour.

[DHutch]

You can get good tapes for the job.

- Although i have to admit we used the normal stuff, an then just went along with a knife and pared off the larger runs...

- I have also use cheap insulating tape for small jobs. But its proberbly not as good (or even as cheep?) as the real stuff?

 

 

 

Daniel

[dave moore]

Hi all

Craftmaster will supply a variety of quality plastic tapes which will give a superb crisp line. Phil offers both a 14 and 50 day tape (ie time that they can be left on ) but I 'd echo an earlier post and advise the earliest removal, having given the paint time to "flash up" and for any sags to have fallen to the bottom tape!

All this will be in vain if the main panel and border paints have poor adhesion to the penultimate coat and I'd advise a test in an insconspicuous area before laying coach lines tape out. Bitter experience... I rarely have a problem taping professionally painted panels but some home grown ones have left lots of paint on the adhesive side of the tape when it's removed.

Cheers

Dave

[john b.]

Hi,

I tried different tapes, I used narrow 10mm wide lining tape for curves etc.( bought from any auto paint supply ) and used 25mm low contact pink coloured tape which was bought from B&Q very pleased with the results no bleeding just good sharp lines.

Hope this is of help.

[Phil Speight]

Hi all

Craftmaster will supply a variety of quality plastic tapes which will give a superb crisp line. Phil offers both a 14 and 50 day tape (ie time that they can be left on ) but I 'd echo an earlier post and advise the earliest removal, having given the paint time to "flash up" and for any sags to have fallen to the bottom tape!

All this will be in vain if the main panel and border paints have poor adhesion to the penultimate coat and I'd advise a test in an insconspicuous area before laying coach lines tape out. Bitter experience... I rarely have a problem taping professionally painted panels but some home grown ones have left lots of paint on the adhesive side of the tape when it's removed.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks for the plug me dear !

To clarify - we have low-contact plastic masking tape in 1/4", 1/2" and 1" widths. It is less bulky than fine line tape and can be left on should you feel confident in the adhesion of your paintwork. It is weather and heat proof ( up to 70 degrees C.) Nothing more to say except that the rolls are 90 metres long, are competatively priced ( certainly when compared like for like with DIY superstore prices ) - and we use this product very happily. The tape leaves no residue whatsoever.

Phil

Ps - Dave - we`re off to our wee cottage Friday for the inaugural fire lighting and whisky drinking ! We signed the lease a week ago. Speight of the Glen etc etc....

 

And quite possibly take some of the new paint with it . Take it off as soon as the paint is touch dry, by pulling it back on itself, not simply lifting away.

 

Oh, the other fun thing is getting the line straight.

Getting the line straight is very easy. There is a fool proof and very simple method. Ask me when I come back from my impending holiday.

Phil

Edited September 4, 2008 by Phil Speight

[Greybeard]

Thanks for the plug me dear !

To clarify - we have low-contact plastic masking tape in 1/4", 1/2" and 1" widths. It is less bulky than fine line tape and can be left on should you feel confident in the adhesion of your paintwork. It is weather and heat proof ( up to 70 degrees C.) Nothing more to say except that the rolls are 90 metres long, are competatively priced ( certainly when compared like for like with DIY superstore prices ) - and we use this product very happily. The tape leaves no residue whatsoever.

Phil

Ps - Dave - we`re off to our wee cottage Friday for the inaugural fire lighting and whisky drinking ! We signed the lease a week ago. Speight of the Glen etc etc....

 

 

Getting the line straight is very easy. There is a fool proof and very simple method. Ask me when I come back from my impending holiday.

Phil

 

Phil

 

Apologies if you actually answered this one but how the **** do you get straight lines when taping up.

 

I need to straighten some lines on the roof - they look like they've been put on by drawing along a hose pipe!

 

Thanks

 

Mike

[David Schweizer]

This is what many proffessionals use:- http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/categories.ph...f0116a8a3b69e90

 

Not cheap (because they have a minimum order stipulation) but it does work. It may be the same as Phil's. I am sure he will confirm or deny.

Edited February 16, 2009 by David Schweizer

[Greybeard]

This is what many proffessionals use:- http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/categories.ph...f0116a8a3b69e90

 

Not cheap (because they have a minimum order stipulation) but it does work. It may be the same as Phil's. I am sure he will confirm or deny.

 

 

I thought you meant that he'd gold leafed his boat until I looked properly.

 

Thanks for the link.

 

Mike

[Serendipity]

Apologies if you actually answered this one but how the **** do you get straight lines when taping up.

 

 

 

 

 

I placed little pieces of tape as references every 6 feet or so, which were measured down from the tops, and up from the bottoms of of the cabin side. It is then fairly easy to get a straight line between these by stretching the tape very taut, and laying it down just next to the reference pieces. Lift up the last foot laid down, move along to the next reference point, pull taught and repeat.

 

When I was happy with the line, some more reference pieces were stuck down below the laid down tape, and the whole process repeated for the next line of tape.

 

I believe there is a technique where you can do the whole lot in one go by pulling it taught and letting it snap back, but I couldn't get the hang of it.

 

Obviously it doesn't matter what bits of tape you use fro the reference tape, but the tape proper should be a plastic 3M tape, both to cope with the streching, and to prevent paint creep. Even then I found it needed me to run along the whole length of the edge with my thumb nail to get good adhesion.

 

Hope this helps.

[Ex- Member]

Apologies if you actually answered this one but how the **** do you get straight lines when taping up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I placed little pieces of tape as references every 6 feet or so, which were measured down from the tops, and up from the bottoms of of the cabin side. It is then fairly easy to get a straight line between these by stretching the tape very taut, and laying it down just next to the reference pieces. Lift up the last foot laid down, move along to the next reference point, pull taught and repeat.

 

When I was happy with the line, some more reference pieces were stuck down below the laid down tape, and the whole process repeated for the next line of tape.

 

I believe there is a technique where you can do the whole lot in one go by pulling it taught and letting it snap back, but I couldn't get the hang of it.

 

Obviously it doesn't matter what bits of tape you use fro the reference tape, but the tape proper should be a plastic 3M tape, both to cope with the streching, and to prevent paint creep. Even then I found it needed me to run along the whole length of the edge with my thumb nail to get good adhesion.

 

Hope this helps.

 

For dead straight lines you can use a chalk line as a guide line, this is a gadget with string enclosed in a casing filled with coloured chalk, when stretched taut it will be dead straight, you then ping the line against the surface leaving a chalk line. set the chalk line a couple of mm short of the masking edge as the masking won't stick too well to chalk or the other side of the masking tape deducting the tapes width.

 

I bought one of these pinstriping tools, can be used with flexi magnetic guide, or set the guide to follow curves or awkward shapes. Brilliant tool.

 

http://www.beugler.com/how2.html

Edited February 17, 2009 by Julynian

[David Schweizer]

Phil

 

Apologies if you actually answered this one but how the **** do you get straight lines when taping up.

 

I need to straighten some lines on the roof - they look like they've been put on by drawing along a hose pipe!

 

Thanks

 

Mike

I actually watched a boat painter do this once (ideally, you need three people)

 

The end of the tape is affixed to a pre-measured mark on the cabin side and held fast by person one. The roll is then unwound by person 2 who walks along the side of the boat keeping the tape fairly taught but away from the cabin side. Holding the tape adjacent to the second pre-measured mark, the tape cut from the roll, and then flexed and stetched When very taught, the second end was smacked onto the cabin side in line with the pre-measured mark. Person three then ran along the side of the boat with a lint free piece of cloth, quickly smoothing the tape onto the cabin side.

 

I think they had done it before. Running ones eye along the tape afterwards it was very straight without the little wiggles that one often sees. The final section where the cabin roof lifts up was done by eye.