We've never sheathed hulls, cabins etc where it will be on show, using CSM . We always used either woven or bi-axial, tri-axial etc.
The peel ply is a cloth and placed over the epoxy saturated glass. Then with a pliable scraper any excess epoxy is worked thru the peel ply. This should leave the peel ply smooth without wrinkles. When the epoxy has gone off you tear off the peel ply and the woven cloth will have a smooth finish ready for painting. If the surface is looked at very carefully you will find the surface is very very slightly 'pin pricked'. This ensures good adhesion of any following painting. The peel ply can be left on the cured epoxy for months if so required. We used to sheath sole boards then bulid the boat before tearing off all of the peel ply. If you want to bond another item to a peel plied surface just mark the area with a sharp stanley knife and tear off a piece of peel ply to allow the bonding.
Times have moved on and materials may have changed but we were told when epoxying to never use CSM that was for produced for ordinary fibreglassing using polyester resin . That CSM has a fine white powder on the strands ( cannot be seen by eye) which enables the polyester resin to adhere to the strands but this white powder rejects epoxy. We were told only ever to use e-glass, which is not coated with the powder. If offered a roll of cheap e-glass , ensure it has never been wet/damp as the epoxy will not adhere.
Hope this helps you
PS. To fully answer your question. However many layers of glass you want to apply try not let a layer fully cure before applying the next layer. Wet a layer then lay on next cloth layer and wet thru etc etc till all the layers are wetted thru, then apply peel ply. If you do let a layer cure any subsequent layer will only achieve a mechanical bond rather than the much stronger chemical bond.