Chipping away at the paint work!

[WillandDom]

Hi everyone

 

Just wanted a bit of advice because unfortunately our first experiences with our lovely new boat aren't going swimmingly and we could do with all the advice we can get!

 

I'm currently waiting on a mechanic to pop out and see our very sad broken engine and so in the mean time I thought I'd get on with sanding the roof down and starting on the new paint job. However, as there are many layers of old paint not sanded and then new paint added over the years, there are many dips and crevices- lets just say its definitely not smooth! I tried sanding with an orbital sander, however this seems to simply hover over the surface and not smooth things out- I then tried using a chisel and hammer which is taking it right back to the steel and has had some great results but is taking me donkeys years!! does anyone have any suggestions which would involve quicker results?!? I have a generator so power isn't a problem (very sorry about the noise though neighbours!)

 

Many thanks guys, really appreciate the help

 

Dominique on Four Of Clubs

[carlt]

By orbital sander, do you mean a rectangular "orbital" one or a round "random orbital" one.

 

The random orbital is pretty effective, as is a belt sander.

 

Use the coarsest grit you can find.

 

If this is still ineffective a wire wheel on an angle grinder will take it off. I don't like the wheels on drills, but that's just a personal thing, probably.

[Tim Lewis]

Hi everyone

 

Just wanted a bit of advice because unfortunately our first experiences with our lovely new boat aren't going swimmingly and we could do with all the advice we can get!

 

I'm currently waiting on a mechanic to pop out and see our very sad broken engine and so in the mean time I thought I'd get on with sanding the roof down and starting on the new paint job. However, as there are many layers of old paint not sanded and then new paint added over the years, there are many dips and crevices- lets just say its definitely not smooth! I tried sanding with an orbital sander, however this seems to simply hover over the surface and not smooth things out- I then tried using a chisel and hammer which is taking it right back to the steel and has had some great results but is taking me donkeys years!! does anyone have any suggestions which would involve quicker results?!? I have a generator so power isn't a problem (very sorry about the noise though neighbours!)

 

Many thanks guys, really appreciate the help

 

Dominique on Four Of Clubs

 

I have seen posts in the past where people have mentioned using concrete scabblers to great/;spedy effect. Being in the construction industry and seeing what they do to comcrete I was a but sceptical but would like to hear from anyone who has used one!

 

Tim

[Chris Pink]

Just wanted a bit of advice because unfortunately our first experiences with our lovely new boat aren't going swimmingly

 

sorry to hear that, hopefully the weather will make it seem a little less hard.

 

To remove 'ard old paint either a needle gun (forget the technical name), usually an air tool, or a scraper. You can also get zirconium discs for an angles grinder either flat discs or flap discs. We have had a lot of success with a type of ceramic disc that looks like a brillo pad, again i don't know the technical name for it (the one's i have are just called stripping discs)

[larkshall]

Hi everyone

 

Just wanted a bit of advice because unfortunately our first experiences with our lovely new boat aren't going swimmingly and we could do with all the advice we can get!

 

I'm currently waiting on a mechanic to pop out and see our very sad broken engine and so in the mean time I thought I'd get on with sanding the roof down and starting on the new paint job. However, as there are many layers of old paint not sanded and then new paint added over the years, there are many dips and crevices- lets just say its definitely not smooth! I tried sanding with an orbital sander, however this seems to simply hover over the surface and not smooth things out- I then tried using a chisel and hammer which is taking it right back to the steel and has had some great results but is taking me donkeys years!! does anyone have any suggestions which would involve quicker results?!? I have a generator so power isn't a problem (very sorry about the noise though neighbours!)

 

Many thanks guys, really appreciate the help

 

Dominique on Four Of Clubs

 

There are several methods you can try in no particular order they are:-

 

a) Rotary wire brushing

paint stripper

c) Blowtorch

d) grit blasting

 

Of these they all have their foibles

 

Wire brushing, hard graft and may not be totally effective requires electric drill and plenty of rotary brushes

 

Paint stripper Horribly expensve mucky and nasty chemicals

 

Blowtorch and scraper will work, but need to be careful you dont burn through insulation inside easily done with interesting side effects.

 

Grit blasting, Need to rent blaster, compressor, and vacuum device Will work very effectively and leave decent keyway for painting. Messy even with a vacuum addon. Will leave bare metal, prime like quick. Fill pits in metal quickly (I lead load)...

[Tim Lewis]

I have seen posts in the past where people have mentioned using concrete scabblers to great/;spedy effect. Being in the construction industry and seeing what they do to comcrete I was a but sceptical but would like to hear from anyone who has used one!

 

Tim

 

 

Should have mentioned that the use of scabblers has been discussed here before:

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=10692

 

Tim

[Derri]

You have my sympathy - we have been in the process of stripping and repainting for months.

 

On deck areas, where there was about 20 layers of paint - some deck, paint, some other, all in a multitude of colours - we had to blast it off with a mini blowtorch and scraper. A horrible, horrible job, but could work for really bad flaky areas.

 

Other than that, just lots and lots and lots of sanding. We had to do most by hand because of all the awkward shaped crevices - arrgghh!!!

 

Still, nearly done now.

[Timleech]

To remove 'ard old paint either a needle gun (forget the technical name), usually an air tool, or a scraper. You can also get zirconium discs for an angles grinder either flat discs or flap discs. We have had a lot of success with a type of ceramic disc that looks like a brillo pad, again i don't know the technical name for it (the one's i have are just called stripping discs)

 

Technical name? Needle Gun , well maybe strictly 'needle descaler'.

There are electric ones, usually attachments for Hilti impact drills, some places do hire them out. My impression is that they're a bit less effective than the air powered ones, but that's based on watching the electric ones in use, and many hours of using an air needle gun myself.

 

There are various attachments for angle grinders or special tools which look a lot like angle grinders, Phil or someone will perhaps be along in a bit to give details. They sound as though they're probably a better bet for large areas of old paint than a needle gun. Needle guns are good for rust scale.

 

Tim

[Tim Lewis]

I have seen posts in the past where people have mentioned using concrete scabblers to great/;spedy effect. Being in the construction industry and seeing what they do to comcrete I was a but sceptical but would like to hear from anyone who has used one!

 

Tim

 

 

This came up on a google search:

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgYuK6-ll3w

 

Tim

[starman]

Sympathies too -- we've just finished a lengthy session in the paint dock stripping and re-painting. We personally found that a random orbital sander even with coarse grit is not that great, the pads clog quickly and, as you say, pass over any unevenness in the surface. One non-power tool solution worth considering to get a lot of paint off relatively quickly is Nitromors -- apply liberally then cover with cling film to stop it drying out too quickly before it's had a chance to eat through the layers of paint. Starwoman stripped off a tug deck pretty effectively with it as well as some ropey patches on the gunwales.

But in the end there's no substitute for elbow grease and hand sanding (with a block over flat surfaces). We went down to 1000 grit wet & dry before the final coats. Before we began I didn't know it even existed but the more you sand, the more obsessed you get with achieving that final smoothness!

[kingfisher]

what you need is to hire one of these http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/directory...p?idproduct=450 or

you can buy the head seperatley and fit it to a large angle grinder (it must be variable speed ) run it on slow .

thats what we have and use it all the time for stripping roofs and sanded decks prior to repaints

it takes about a day of hard graft to strip a roof but stick with it and the results will speak for them selves

[Robbo]

I'm currently waiting on a mechanic to pop out and see our very sad broken engine and so in the mean time I thought I'd get on with sanding the roof down and starting on the new paint job. However, as there are many layers of old paint not sanded and then new paint added over the years, there are many dips and crevices- lets just say its definitely not smooth! I tried sanding with an orbital sander, however this seems to simply hover over the surface and not smooth things out- I then tried using a chisel and hammer which is taking it right back to the steel and has had some great results but is taking me donkeys years!! does anyone have any suggestions which would involve quicker results?!? I have a generator so power isn't a problem (very sorry about the noise though neighbours!)

 

Have a look at Stripping Discs, you can get them from places like Halfords, B&Q etc. Cheapest place I've seen them is http://www.rightlines.ltd.uk/products.aspx...2&groupID=5

[alan_fincher]

Having tried the "Brillo like" Stripping Discs, I can say they do work well, but at a not insignificant price.

 

They are not a particularly cheap item if used in quantity, and although pretty effective, we found each disc tends to wear down surprisingly quickly.

 

On the other hand the Zirconium discs that go on a backing pad in an angle grinder are a tiny fraction of the price, virtually as effective, and each one probably lasts as long as a "Brillo pad".

 

So if you have a large area to do, I'd argue that you will save significant money by using the Zirconium discs rather than the "stripping discs".

 

These are massively cheaper if you Google around for online suppliers. B&Q will sell them in 5s, but online suppliers in 50s, with the price per disc maybe only 25% of that from the DIY superstores.

 

I have to say I'm astounded anyone has had any success with a blow torch - we tried this, and the paint wasn't even softened. By this point there was a serious risk of batening inside catching fire.

 

Alan

[Chris Pink]

Have a look at Stripping Discs, you can get them from places like Halfords, B&Q etc. Cheapest place I've seen them is http://www.rightlines.ltd.uk/products.aspx...2&groupID=5

 

 

I'd recommend these people abrasivesformetal.co.uk who sell rightlines discs at a discount on the rightlines price. Got this link from them today (asking about something to strip bitumous paint) http://www.abrasivesformetal.co.uk/Product...oductTypeID=160

 

edited to say i think they're the same people (i was looking at the singles price)

 

and I'd also agree with Alan that zirconium discs work out a lot cheaper bought in packs of 50 for large areas. Remarkable effective for smoothing steel as well but much more prone to clogging with gunky paint.

Edited May 7, 2008 by Chris Pink

[saltysplash]

Should have mentioned that the use of scabblers has been discussed here before:

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=10692

 

Tim

 

 

Neil and Cath are moored next to us and I can confirm their roof is looking splendid following their week in wet dock and the use of the scabbler

[Derri]

I have to say I'm astounded anyone has had any success with a blow torch - we tried this, and the paint wasn't even softened. By this point there was a serious risk of batening inside catching fire.

 

Alan

 

 

Yup. The best thing is, our boat is tupperware, not metal.

 

Still afloat, though, and despite much burning of fingers, eyebrows, clothes, those 20 layers of deck paint from the last 30 years are now history