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Paint, one pack ontop of 2 pack?


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23 minutes ago, umpire111 said:

Currently have a 2 pack paint below gunnels and above blacking….thinking of using a 1 pack to repaint this but I hear that 1 pack cannot go onto 2 pack? Any advice please

Ask the manufacturer or supplier, try SML Paints., Ask about hardtop I think it is called. What is the worst that can happen? Why not use two pack?

Paint is essentially to protect against corrosion, but it's all in the prep if you really want a good finish. 

 

Edited by LadyG
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Of course it can. Once two pack has set it is inert so anthing will go onto it. If its new then it might need sanding but if its old just a good clean or a very gentle sand.

The only possible downside is that if you want to put more two pack on later you should sand off the one pack first without going through the two pack.

Its pretty normal to do the hull in two pack then paint on the tunnel bands in standard paint (ours has lasted for years).

 

 

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You can paint a single part paint on top of your two pack epoxy. As dmr says, you should probably give it a good key first with a sander and a medium grit paper. However, I'm not sure why you'd want to do that? It seems like a particularly bad idea to me because someone spent a lot of money on a high quality durable epoxy and now you want to paint over it with an inferior paint. It also limits your ability to use two pack again in future unless you want to strip the whole lot off.

 

So I don't really understand why people keep asking this question? When it comes to painting a boat, it's almost a mantra on this forum that you should try to use the same paint that was used previously, in part to avoid compatibility issues (unless you're stripping back and want to use something completely different). But for some reason when it comes to epoxy people seem hell bent on painting single part paints over the top! Weird.

Edited by blackrose
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1 minute ago, blackrose said:

You can paint a single part paint on top of your two pack epoxy. As dmr says, you should probably give it a good key first with a sander and a medium grit paper. However, I'm not sure why you'd want to do that? It seems like a particularly bad idea to me because someone spent a lot of money on a high quality durable epoxy and now you want to paint over it with an inferior paint. It also limits your ability to use two pack again in future unless you want to strip the whole lot off.

 

So I don't really understand why people keep asking this question? When it comes to painting a boat, it's almost a mantra on this forum that you should try to use the same paint that was used previously - unless you're stripping back and want to use something completely different. But for some reason when it comes to epoxy people seem hell bent on painting single part paints over the top! Weird.

Tx, the sides are scratched and simply need repainting, as we use the boat this will be an ongoing issue and 1 pack just seems far easier to use 

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

You can paint a single part paint on top of your two pack epoxy. As dmr says, you should probably give it a good key first with a sander and a medium grit paper. However, I'm not sure why you'd want to do that? It seems like a particularly bad idea to me because someone spent a lot of money on a high quality durable epoxy and now you want to paint over it with an inferior paint. It also limits your ability to use two pack again in future unless you want to strip the whole lot off.

 

So I don't really understand why people keep asking this question? When it comes to painting a boat, it's almost a mantra on this forum that you should try to use the same paint that was used previously, in part to avoid compatibility issues (unless you're stripping back and want to use something completely different). But for some reason when it comes to epoxy people seem hell bent on painting single part paints over the top! Weird.

 

A couple of examples...

I did the well deck and back counter in epoxy to get the strength and long term water protection. I then put a couple of coats of Craftmaster raddle on top because thats the colour that I wanted. I then decided that this was too slippery so put a quick coat of BondaPrimer on top of the Raddle. I think this was about 7 years ago and its still going strong, though the Raddle and Bonda need repeating every three years or so.

 

The lower tunnel band is done in international Tplac on top of the epoxy.

 

It is possible to get Jotun 90 in a range of colours but it only comes in big tins. Its a lot more convenient to just keep one colour of epoxy and put a one pack colour on top.

 

I am also happy to mix and match layers of one pack, in general I don't think its important to stick with one brand of paint but there are exceptions to this.

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22 minutes ago, dmr said:

 

A couple of examples...

I did the well deck and back counter in epoxy to get the strength and long term water protection. I then put a couple of coats of Craftmaster raddle on top because thats the colour that I wanted. I then decided that this was too slippery so put a quick coat of BondaPrimer on top of the Raddle. I think this was about 7 years ago and its still going strong, though the Raddle and Bonda need repeating every three years or so.

 

The lower tunnel band is done in international Tplac on top of the epoxy.

 

It is possible to get Jotun 90 in a range of colours but it only comes in big tins. Its a lot more convenient to just keep one colour of epoxy and put a one pack colour on top.

 

I am also happy to mix and match layers of one pack, in general I don't think its important to stick with one brand of paint but there are exceptions to this.

That’s also most useful, tx

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46 minutes ago, umpire111 said:

That’s also most useful, tx

 

I did the well deck as a bare metal job with BondaPrimer and Raddle. It only lasted a couple of weeks, the problem was the dog jumping onto the boat and stopping herself with her claws, they went right through the paint.

I did the whole lot again with epoxy (Armourguard ST), I think I did three coats then put the Raddle and Bondaprimer on top. It has lasted well. I have had to do a couple of little repairs, a rust bubble or two as my preparation was not perfect, plus a hole where I dropped a mooring pin. I suspect that Jotun 90 might be just a bit tougher than the Armourgard so will probably use that next time. Trouble is these things hopefully last ten years or more so its a long process to get good first hand experience.

I've just (this past week) done the edge/weld where the cabin side joins the gunnel as there was a bit of rust getting in. Same thing, bare metal, epoxy, then raddle on top.

Ive done one side in Jotun and the other in Armourguard so at some future time I might know which one is best.😀

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28 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Unless you spend most of your time moored up with one side in the sun and the other in the shade!

 

Thats very true, in reality there are just too many variables. I did the "Jotun side" canalside at Cropredy a couple of years ago and only got three coats on before the weather gave out, so built the thickness up with many coats of Raddle. Also the Jotun was past its "best before" date. I did the other (Armourguard) side last week in very hot weather and probably did a better job of getting back to clean steel. I got 4 or 5 coats of Armourguard on but had a lot of trouble with dust and insects getting built into the layers.

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