Drill attachment options...

[bizzard]

4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

If only one knew what that looks like!

Like a bike brake lever, unsqueeze or let go and it stops the grinder.

[ditchcrawler]

11 minutes ago, LadyG said:

If only one knew what that looks like!

A switch like on this air tool 

[Fraggle Moon]

Thanks to all for your feedback, actually quite looking forward to having a go with the angle grinder now...

 

I shall heed all of your safety advice (except maybe, for having it on a lanyard!!) 😄

 

Totally different question... After removing the rust and getting down some RO primer, how long can that be left before having to get some finishing coats on top?? I understand the primer doesn't fully protect the steel..?

 

NB: 37.4% of all statistics are made up!

[dmr]

2 hours ago, Fraggle Moon said:

Thanks to all for your feedback, actually quite looking forward to having a go with the angle grinder now...

 

I shall heed all of your safety advice (except maybe, for having it on a lanyard!!) 😄

 

Totally different question... After removing the rust and getting down some RO primer, how long can that be left before having to get some finishing coats on top?? I understand the primer doesn't fully protect the steel..?

 

NB: 37.4% of all statistics are made up!

 

Get some BondaPrimer, not quite as good as it used to be but still streets ahead of the rest.  On a hot sunny day it will dry in ten mins, two coats and a couple of hours later you can be doing the first undercoat. Even better it is waterproof, but its still a good idea to get the undercoat and top coats on before too long to build up the thickness.

 

Acetone or cellulose thinners to clean the brushes, don't get it on your clothes or skin 'cus it sticks as well to these as it does to steel.

Get the smaller pots, or if you get a big pot decant into jamjars, tends to evaporate when lid is open.

[blackrose]

5 hours ago, dmr said:

 

Get some BondaPrimer, not quite as good as it used to be but still streets ahead of the rest.  On a hot sunny day it will dry in ten mins, two coats and a couple of hours later you can be doing the first undercoat. Even better it is waterproof, but its still a good idea to get the undercoat and top coats on before too long to build up the thickness.

 

Acetone or cellulose thinners to clean the brushes, don't get it on your clothes or skin 'cus it sticks as well to these as it does to steel.

Get the smaller pots, or if you get a big pot decant into jamjars, tends to evaporate when lid is open.

 

I stopped using it after a couple of cans I bought turned to gel within about a year and couldn't be thinned with cellulose thinners. Not sure if the shelf life was exceeded or whether the quality had been reduced, but it happened twice in a row so I gave up with it. I'd just use epoxy on bare de-rusted steel now.

[dmr]

8 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

I stopped using it after a couple of cans I bought turned to gel within about a year and couldn't be thinned with cellulose thinners. Not sure if the shelf life was exceeded or whether the quality had been reduced, but it happened twice in a row so I gave up with it. I'd just use epoxy on bare de-rusted steel now.

 

This is a problem with the recent stuff. They do say a shelf life of 18 months so maybe it was old stock?  Bonda has always had an issue with solvent evaporation when the lid is open.

I get the bigger tins and decant into jamjars and try to use each jar within a few months of opening. Most have been fine but one or two went a bit lumpy but I don't understand why some went and not others. I found a good stir with cellulose mostly fixed it though a few small lumps remained but mostly brushed out.

There are still lots of jobs where Bonda is more suitable/convenient/quicker than epoxy.  

[TandC]

I've just used SML's Quick Drying Bilge Paint to do the cabin bilge on our new build.  It has good coverage and dried very rapidly having a Xylene base.  Two coats has given a really good thickness, it dried very quickly despite the cold weather and would have allowed rapid overcoating.  The data sheet gives clear guidance on the recommended drying time for overcoating with white spirit - this varies based on ambient drying temperature, but in all cases was rapid.

 

In short, I'd recommend it as a primer product ahead of a final topcoat (or, in our case, as it is just the bilge no top coat was recommended).