Fraggle Moon

Yes, along the rubbing bands (still learning some of the correct terms), There are areas where they clearly have not been continuously welded, either on the top or bottom edge. The sealant has been run along these edges, in some places it has deteriorated and has crumbled away.

Thanks for this, I shall wait to see if anyone else has any experience regarding the BSS... If vents are mandatory however , then I imagine there must be a better way to provide this, that doesn't leave big holes in the roof..! 😄 I'm from a construction engineering background and they just seem to be a poor solution for providing fresh air... Having stripped mine back to the bare-bones at the weekend, all 4 show signs that they have allowed water ingress in the past.

Good eve, After a thorough jet washing of the hull, I have a few questions regarding the preparation works required, before I can even think about getting out the bitumen... The boat is a 45ft that has been sat on the dry in a boatyard for several years. The hull has been surveyed and was deemed to be structurally sound and in need of some pad welding to the areas of pitting (I questioned the possible use of filler in another post and was told pad welding was the way to go) 1. Is shot-blasting the only option for taking back large areas to bare steel? Pretty much all of the level below the water-line has little or no remaining bitumen and as such is largely coated in surface rust / corrosion. The budget and location don't really make this an option where she sits so hoping that there is a DIY way to suitably prep this... 2. Along the horizontal ribs / braces, some of the sealant has failed and has come away. What is the best product to replace this with? 3. Where this sealant has been a long-time failed, there are some areas where the rust has gotten into the braces / behind them where it wont be possible to grind away or remove that rust. Should I treat this with a rust-convertor or similar? Thanks for your wisdom...

Hi all, Is a mushroom vent 'delete' a good idea..? I can understand the need for this ventilation on a pleasure vessel that may be left for long periods, but for me it will be a permanent liveaboard, so I would imagine that the use of doors and windows being opened would provide sufficient venting... Thanks

Thanks to all for your feedback, actually quite looking forward to having a go with the angle grinder now... I shall heed all of your safety advice (except maybe, for having it on a lanyard!!) 😄 Totally different question... After removing the rust and getting down some RO primer, how long can that be left before having to get some finishing coats on top?? I understand the primer doesn't fully protect the steel..? NB: 37.4% of all statistics are made up!

Appreciate you both 👍 Will give both a try... I'll pull on my big-boy pants and crack out the angle grinder!!

Thank you both. One other question: I am using bitumen to black the boat and it came with 5 large cans. These don't state that they are specifically for boats, does that matter or is bitumen paint is bitumen paint is bitumen paint??

Hi there, quick question... What style of drill attachment would you recommend for removal of light surface rust?? I say drill, as although I own angle grinders and am a competent DIY'er, I have never felt confident using them!! Thank you

Hello all, hoping you may be able to help me with a few questions that I haven't managed to find the answers to anywhere else... When taking a hull back to bare steel in patches (for localised repairs) is it a requirement to prime the steel or should you apply blacking straight to it?? For the treatment of small areas of pitting, is there a suitable filler that can be used in lieu of pad welding?? After scraping back loose bitumen and jet-washing I have found the underlying black is quite patchy in it's thickness. Will the fresh coats of blacking help to smooth this out, or will some prep work be required to give a good, even finished result?? Thank you in advance for any advice you can pass on...