Getting stern gland replaced

[AJB1]

Can anyone recommend someone to replace our stern gland packing as the prop shaft is leaking rather badly. We are travelling down from Coventry canal to Worcester area and are new to this area.

 

[Tony Brooks]

5 minutes ago, AJB1 said:

Can anyone recommend someone to replace our stern gland packing as the prop shaft is leaking rather badly. We are travelling down from Coventry canal to Worcester area and are new to this area.

 

 

Short answer no, not local. Long answer what type of gland (not all are packed) and if it is packed have you tried adjusting it? Adjusting is simple if you can waggle a spanner. A photo may help.

[BEngo]

Once you have the packing it is not a difficult DIY job.  Lots of threads on how on  here.

 

However, depending on where you are on the Cov.  Streethay wharf, The boatyard at Glascote, Alvecote, Springwood, would be worth asking

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Once you have the packing it is not a difficult DIY job.  Lots of threads on how on  here.

 

However, depending on where you are on the Cov.  Streethay wharf, The boatyard at Glascote, Alvecote, Springwood, would be worth asking

 

I got the impression they are now in the Worcester area having travelled from the Coventry.

[AJB1]

Ok thanks we will try tightening it up and see what happens and maybe get a photo next time we are on boat.

[Tony Brooks]

8 minutes ago, AJB1 said:

Ok thanks we will try tightening it up and see what happens and maybe get a photo next time we are on boat.

 

If you are a new boater do you turn the stern gland greaser down until it stiffens at the end of each day's running? If you don't then that may be all that is needed. Traditionally stern glands are supposed to drip one or twice a minute and the grease seals it when the shaft is not turning.

 

Hope this is not teaching grandma etc.  When you try to tighten it some precautions.

 

If it is a two stud gland make sure you tighten the nuts evenly, that is the same number of flats on each side.

 

While adjusting keep turning the shaft by hand on the shaft coupling (unless it is a Lister LH150 gearbox). Do not tighten to the point the resistance to turning gets stiff.

 

After adjusting go for a run and the put your hand on the gland. It may be warm but should not be "ouch" hot. If it is loosen the gland a little.

 

Very important!  Clean any grease and muck off the front of the gland so you can check the shaft goes right into the centre of the hole in the gland and that the hole in the gland is not oval. If either are wrong then the engine has probably dropped on its mounts and needs realigning.

 

[AJB1]

Many thanks. Apparently we have an automatic greaser so do not tighten anything at end of day. Have had the engine serviced and aligned before we left Lincoln and all ok then. Will get a photo next time and post.

[Tony Brooks]

10 minutes ago, AJB1 said:

Many thanks. Apparently we have an automatic greaser so do not tighten anything at end of day. Have had the engine serviced and aligned before we left Lincoln and all ok then. Will get a photo next time and post.

 

Thanks, although not unheard of I find an automatic greaser not very likely. Many of the non-packed glands do not use greasers so I await the photo(s) with interest.

[ditchcrawler]

26 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Thanks, although not unheard of I find an automatic greaser not very likely. Many of the non-packed glands do not use greasers so I await the photo(s) with interest.

I have seen units which I think are gas pressurised on glands as well as the spring cup ones Percy: Greasomatic automatic stern greaser (nbpercy.blogspot.com)

[Tracy D'arth]

There are auto grease cans. They have a small amount of acid inside and a lump of aluminium. You install them and start them off.

As the metal erodes it produces gas which forces the grease out in a controlled manner. They are graded by the time that they take to empty. Often used on conveyors and other mechanisms.

[Tony Brooks]

And both the above MIGHT mean the OP's unit needs some kind of service.

[ditchcrawler]

25 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

And both the above MIGHT mean the OP's unit needs some kind of service.

I don't think I would want to rely on one

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, ditchcrawler said:

I don't think I would want to rely on one

Me neither, but some people love such gimmicks. Fine in industry where they are professionally maintained but onto on a boat where there is no guarantee of the boaters competence

[cuthound]

On 19/06/2022 at 19:31, Tony Brooks said:

Me neither, but some people love such gimmicks. Fine in industry where they are professionally maintained but onto on a boat where there is no guarantee of the boaters competence

 

Also the rate of grease dispersal is temperature related. Most are designed to deliver grease at room or summer or winter outside temperatures and would disperse the grease much quicker at the temperatures experienced in a typical under deck engine installation when the engine is running.

[Tony Brooks]

10 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

Also the rate of grease dispersal is temperature related. Most are designed to deliver grease at room or summer or winter outside temperatures and would disperse the grease much quicker at the temperatures experienced in a typical under deck engine installation when the engine is running.

 

If he does have an auto-greaser do you think it might be empty?

[cuthound]

8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

If he does have an auto-greaser do you think it might be empty?

 

Almost certainly. I've seen then used in my industry to lubricate the bearings of rotary machines, particularly where access is difficult, but it is essential that they are replaced before the grease has been completely dispensed.

[AJB1]

Here is photo of prop shaft and stern gland, apologies took so long. I think we should screw down the large greaser, the whole thing comes off and refills with grease.

[Stilllearning]

27 minutes ago, AJB1 said:

Here is photo of prop shaft and stern gland, apologies took so long. I think we should screw down the large greaser, the whole thing comes off and refills with grease.

Blimey, an antique!

Yes, undo it, refill with grease then refit, but while you are at it, undo the brass nuts that are on each side of the stuffing box, and see how little gland packing there is left inside the box. I suspect it needs repacking, others will be along in a minute or two to agree, or disagree, with me.

[BEngo]

I would want to see the greaser apart to understand how it is meant to work.  I think the Brass knob may compress a spring which then, over time, steadily pushes the grease into the stern tube.   If that is the case, undo the brass knob before you fill with grease and tighten it after reassembly.

 

I nearly agree with Stilllearning.  There is plenty of thread left for the follower so adjust it rather than dismantle. 

Undo the gland's rear lock nut and screw the follower back along the shaft so that it  compresses the packing a  little more. Then tighten the lock nut. You should be able to turn the shaft by hand still and it should drip water occasionally whilst going along.

 

If you remove the follower from the threaded bit you really should replace all the packing before reassembly and use.   After you have sorted the greaser, It would be OK to dismantle the gland, measure the packing and reassemble while you shop for new packing.  You want at least two rings,  three is better if there is room.  If that is a 11/2 in shaft I would guess at 1/4 or 5/16 packing

 

N

[AJB1]

Many thanks will try suggestions.

 

[ditchcrawler]

This is what I was thinking of 

[AJB1]

Mine seems to be unique and antique!