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Secondary window film


SusieC
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If you're doing it do it properly with 3 or 4mm perspex or clear acrylic with UV resistance and magnetic strips. They can be cut to size for you and you can fit some handles. If you want to open the hoppers just take the perspex off.

 

That clingfilm inside your windows looks terrible.

 

There are some old threads on here with all the details if you do a search

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2 hours ago, rgreg said:

If you do a good job of fitting it without creases (a bit of an art but possible with care) it can be almost invisible. 

 

And the thin stuff I looked at said use a hair dryer to shrink it once fitted so the creases came out. Nowadays you can get thin roll able semi rigid clear plastic that would be easier to get up without creases and it is far from Clingfilm.

 

Back to the OP. I had this on JennyB and came to the conclusion that I had two options. Either fit a suitably deep wooded surround to get the plastic clear of the hopper brackets or just do the main pane and find some foam like substance to bridge the gap between the frame blow the hopper and the film. As it was a holiday boat and only used for the odd weekend in winter I gave up and did neither.

 

I think one could make a quick release wooden frame that sat in a groove batten along the bottom of the window and  held in place by a couple of finger screws at the top that are hidden by the blind/curtain.

 

Edited to add: Last paragraph - should have said with some foam on the frame to make a better seal between cabin lining and frame.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

And the thin stuff I looked at said use a hair dryer to shrink it once fitted so the creases came out.

Yes, that's what I use.  Tesa Moll Thermo Cover: 4m X 1.5 m covers 5 typical "bus style" windows and, importantly, the tape peels off easily without leaving a residue on the wooden frame. I have used it for years and found it very effective and unobtrusive.

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