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1 minute ago, Boaty Jo said:

Our first boat shell was built in Mold.

Any guesses?

 

 

Would it have been Dragon Narowboats ?
 

If so they were actually built in 'our village' of Cefn-y-Bedd, subsequently taken over by a skip manufacturer and production moved.

 

 

 

Screenshot (180).png

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3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Would it have been Dragon Narowboats ?
 

If so they were actually built in 'our village' of Cefn-y-Bedd, subsequently taken over by a skip manufacturer and production moved.

 

 

 

Screenshot (180).png

Yes, that's right Dragon. Near Mold!

It's a very nice looking skip. 

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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Yup, thats it (similar to the majority of NB';s and WB's) but the Dragon ones could be identified byt the tiller adornment :

 

 

 

Didn't they have a similar motif at the prow as well? I remember seeing one, possibly at Crick Boat Show.

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21 minutes ago, Athy said:

Didn't they have a similar motif at the prow as well? I remember seeing one, possibly at Crick Boat Show.

Correct. 

Dragon.JPG

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On 26/01/2021 at 11:58, David Mack said:

Yup. There's your problem. Every part of the shell from floor level up needs to be insulated.  And if you use anything other than spray foam you really should have a vapour barrier on the inside face. 

.

 

Unless you use kingspan or celotex PU board. Butt the joints close and tape the joints with aluminium tape. You can use Stixall to stick the board to the steel.

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Do I need to remove the ply I've stuck on already? That's the question too I guess. If I apply celotex over these boards will the area stay dry. Or do I need to pain staickingly strip off these and apply celotex direct to steal.

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6 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Unless you use kingspan or celotex PU board. Butt the joints close and tape the joints with aluminium tape. You can use Stixall to stick the board to the steel.

In which case the aluminium foil in the face of the Kingspan/Celotex is the vapour barrier (as long as the joints are taped as you describe).

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9 minutes ago, David Mack said:

In which case the aluminium foil in the face of the Kingspan/Celotex is the vapour barrier (as long as the joints are taped as you describe).

Do you reckon straight over Dave? Would save me a ton of work. 

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16 minutes ago, John Lewis said:

Do I need to remove the ply I've stuck on already? That's the question too I guess. If I apply celotex over these boards will the area stay dry. Or do I need to pain staickingly strip off these and apply celotex direct to steal.

 

Best practice would say "yes take the ply off first", but if the ply is securely stuck to the steel and you make sure that you fill any gaps between Cellotex or Kingspan with foam from a can and aluminium tape all the joints then I think it would be ok to go over the ply. It would be much like insulating over a batten. What is your ply stuck on with? Is it flexible?

 

However, wouldn't you have a narrow gap (ply thickness) in the insulation between the underside of the gunwale and the cabin sides above and below?

Edited by blackrose
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23 minutes ago, John Lewis said:

Do I need to remove the ply I've stuck on already?

 

I'd suggest - yes.

 

The ply is damp and growing mold, it will continue to rot and one day (soon ?) it will all fall of / fall into pieces and bring the covering of insulation and cabin lining with it.

 

How long are you planning to keep the boat ?

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It's been a restoration job, do that ply was put on last summer. It's still dry, I think, just mold on surface.

 

yes which is why I want to address it if I'm to live in it. Hard to call I suppose. Just being lazy.

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5 minutes ago, John Lewis said:

It's been a restoration job, do that ply was put on last summer. It's still dry, I think, just mold on surface.

 

yes which is why I want to address it if I'm to live in it. Hard to call I suppose. Just being lazy.

 

Would it really take that much to get the ply off with a hammer and an old chisel working along the length of the boat.

Edited by blackrose
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To avoid cold spots that result in condensation and mould you need both the insulation and vapour barrier to be continuous. That is going to be a lot harder to achieve if the insulation on the hull and cabin sides is behind the lining, but that under the gunwale is in front of it (even if you then put another lining on the inside).

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1 hour ago, John Lewis said:

It's on the surface, ya, but I don't think wet right through is what I meant.

 

i know I need to scrape it off. It's just a headache.

err ........   most plywood is not waterproof.  If the surface is damp then the mold spores will likely have got into the rest of the ply and may cause rot in the future.

if a job's worth doing then it's worth doing well.

that's why AdeE asked how long you intend to keep the boat.

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