Search the Community

Hi All, I've purchased a Lister TS2 engine to replace the original ST2 engine which was seized. I've located two sensors on the engine. One is the air temperature sensor and the other is for the oil but could please advise if it is for oil pressure or oil temperature? I also require a control panel and was wondering if these sensors can be wired to gauges rather than just warning lamps? Also, could anybody recommend a supplier for a control panel? Ideally, I'd like the following: Keyed Ignition Switch Tachometer (engine revs and hours run) Battery Voltage Gauge Oil Pressure Gauge Air Temperature Gauge Thanks in advance.

I have a lister LPW3 water cooled engine. I noticed that after driving for around 3 hours, my coolant level rises approx 20cm in the header tank. After 3 hours, I should be getting hot water, but it's luke warm. Could there be an air gap being created each time the engine runs? If so, how can the radiator/coolant system be bled?

For Sale Lister JP3M with Blackstone gearbox and 3:1 reduction gear. Recently had top end overhaul, Injectors and fuel pump newly overhauled by specialist. Comes with original JP oil tank Electric start and hand start £7000 Please message me with any enquiries More pictures and Videos available on request

Hi folks Anyone know of a mechanic with knowledge of the Blackstone gearbox fitted to the JP engines, within shout of Ashton under Lyne? What we have is a box which - even when very tightly adjusted - still slips badly in Forward gear. I can only assume that it has run out of friction material in the plates and is down to steel-on-steel. Happy for any input - contacts as above or ideas of things to try, how to take it apart etc. Cheers Andy

Hi I bagged a bargain and now own a Lister Petter lpws4a, please correct me if I'm wrong the (a) stands for anti clockwise. I am trying to get parts for it it come without a starter and the alternator is a mess. The flywheel was also flooded and i'm praying will still spin. I am looking for some info for the correct parts for this model, I can't find a lot online atm, and I am a complete novice with engines, and now keen to learn more. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to whom may help.

Hi I wonder if the more learned amongst you could help me with identifying my engine other the it's an ST3. The info panel on the engine states: No 3400235ST30-29 Unit 5188ST3MG85 Thanks

spotted on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lister-TS-TR-Recoil-starter-motor-Marine-stationary-engine-Industrial/264196240432?hash=item3d8352b430:g:5VIAAOSwVbhcZTtG:rk:26:pf:0 springy

I have a Lister HR2 in my boat. I have only managed to hand start it after it has already been warmed up. i.e. start using starter motor, run it until its warm, shut it down, then hand start it using decompression levers one after t'other and voila. Am I just too weedy to hand start it cold or am i doing something wrong? Also, if you are to hand start, would you switch on the starter or not bother as it isn't being used? Hands up, I am not an expert. When I start my engine using the starter motor it fires up almost instantly. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and I am tempted to try every evening next week until I manage to get the 'knack' or whatever it is I need... Cheers

Hi, I think I have introduced some air into my system and I could do with advice on how to bleed it to get the engine running on 2 cylinders. I have read through some old posts and I have done the same as this ...... dietaylor87 said: - we turned off the fuel lines as there was a tiny drip, but have opened them up again now. I think this is the problem. By closing the fuel valve from the tank, you made the fuel system on the engine a closed system. If you did that when the engine was warm, then as the fuel in the pipes cools it shrinks, and the pressure in the pipes drops. That turns the "tiny drip" from something that lets diesel out, into something that lets air bubbles in. Air bubbles in diesel pipes stop engines. To get the engine going again, you need to bleed the air out of the pipes, and to avoid a repeat, don't close the fuel valve, and preferably fix the leak. I don't know the details of bleeding an SL3, not hopefully someone else will be along with those soon. MP. ......The engine will start but I can feel the right hand cylinde exhaust is getting hot whereas the left hand is not. I’d like to have a go myself so any advice from the knowledgeable would be much appreciated. ( ...and yes I’ll fix the leak from the day tank !!) Thanks Nev

On my list of long projects has been my Lister HRW3 engine that has been sitting in my friends yard for some time now and is beginning to demand attention, So the strip down began a couple of days ago, so far It appears to have worn rings and will need to have the bores cleaned up and oversized rings fitted, the big ends were not in good order either and require replacing, rather scored by the looks of things, any how here is the first stage of the rebuild, bores, three of them to be exact, first soak in diesel then sprayed with gunk greaser and then the battery grinder to clean them up ready for a lick of gray primer, these bores do not look in to bad of condition internaly looking at the water jacket internals but I shall be pressure washing them out to clear all the debre before being sent off for honing out and seeing if new rings are needed. I shall have more photos to follow shortly as i am posting these as work progresses. sorry no photos of the strip down, was too busy trying to get bolts off without shearing studs and threads in the bolts, lots of heat was used on some. cheers all. TCB

Hi all, hope you can enlighten me here. Our Petter PH2 (raw water cooled) engine heats our water by running through the block and then through the calorifier and then back through the engine. When the water returning from the calorifier reaches a certain temperature the themostat opens and out goes a measly dribble of steaming water out the side of the boat. Also the calorifier circuit then gets air locked/stops running water through as all the hot water goes straight out the outlet connected to the thermostat. The water never gets that hot at all and I was wondering if there are different temperature rated themostats so that it would allow the calorifier to get much warmer before switching to the outlet. Any ideas/thoughts about this? Also how come I never get a good 'gushing' out of the side of the boat and just a wee steamy trickle? Have checked for blockages in the inlet/mudbox and water flows string when I bleed the calorifier circuit. Also added an extra pump on the circuit to give the impeller a boost. Any help much appreciated, Cheers, Ed

Hey guys new on here so wasnt sure where to post, just picked up a narrowboat with an sr2 in, but i'm struggling to find out the best way to adapt the throttle for a morse. It came with a morse and 33c cables but it has an original lister throttle cable, I can see some people are using 33c cables and i'm trying find the way around it talked to sleeman and to lister and no one seems to have an answer any help would be appreciated ive added a couple of pictures ( promise i don't keep my engines in this condition as i said only just picked it up!) Cav

I have been meaning to do this for ages. What I want to do is illustrate what you will find inside the engine, what's most likely to be the cause of a leak and what might also happen in rare cases. Here goes: Overall There are three areas where you may find internal diesel leaks: Behind the fuel pump door Under the rocker covers The low pressure fuel pump These pictures are of an SR2, the arrangements are much the same on the rest of the S range and in the H range too Fuel pumps: Here we have the two fuel pumps. Running across the middle of the picture is the fuel feed pipe, a copper one in this engine. Coming out of the pumps and running up inside the fuel pump housing are the delivery pipes Rocker covers: The injector is in the centre here, held down by the beam with the stud at each end. The injector pipe is coming up from the pump between the push rods. The spill rail is on the far side, comes out of the injector, loops under the beam and out the side of the engine under the rocker cover joint To try to make things clearer, this is the fuel system with the engine removed (?!) Pumps at the bottom linked by the feed pipe, injectors at the top of the injector pipes and the spill rail. There are no prizes for pointing out what is wrong with this set up Feed Pipe The feed pipe connects to the fuel pump with a banjo bolt There is a seal each side, in this case they are Dowty washers, older installations may have copper washers Common problems: Loose banjo bolts, Damaged sealing washers. Either of these will show up as leaks around the washers. As a first step, check the banjo bolt is tight Uncommon problems. Broken fuel pipe. The pumps are held down by a Y shaped clamp with a central bolt: If this bolt is loose, the pumps can move around which can cause fatigue cracking of the pipe. On engines with a lift pump, operating the priming lever may show fuel squirting out of cracked pipes Bleed point Each pump has it's own bleed point, used for bleeding air out of the pump body There's a copper sealing washer that seals the screw to the body Common problems: Loose bleed screw, damaged sealing washer. As a first step, check the bleed screw is tight Delivery valve housing On top of the pump are two hexagonal parts. The upper one is the nut on the end of the injector pipe. The lower is the hexagon that is used to tighten the deliver valve housing into the pump. The correct way to undo or tighten the injector pipe is to put a spanner onto each of these hexagons and squeeze. This doesn't always happen, and it is possible to loosen the delivery valve housing, which will cause a leak. To check this, with two spanners, slacken the nut on the injector pipe. Then tighten the delivery valve housing into the pump, finally with two spanners retighten the injector pipe A loose delivery valve housing will cause erratic running, and also leaks when the engine is not running Injector pipe Again, a loose injector pipe will give poor running as well as leaks when the engine isn't running. If the delivery valve is working OK, this is much less likely, so leaks here, at the delivery valve housing and at the injector are much less likely. You're going to notice a cylinder not working more than a leak. Having said that, three cylinder Listers do seem to run OK on two cylinders The injector pipe connections at the pump and the injector are metal to metal seals: As long as the connections are tight, they should be fine. A damaged nipple on the pipe will cause poor running Richard

Hi - quick question: does an air cooled lister cool down quicker at idle or at rest ? I suspect mine is cooling quicker at idle. Cheers

My Lister 2 cylinder wc engine has been diagnosed as having a faulty water pump as well as requires new hosing for the cooling system (header tank filled). I am having real problems getting an engineer to come out to do the work. Can anyone recommend an engineer that is happy to work in London. I am moored in E5, close to Springfield Park. Many thanks in advance.

can anyone recommend an online supplier where I can purchase a new dipstick and tube to fit my Lister LPWS4. the handle is broken off mine and the tube is broken away from it's top mount (it looks like someone has stood on it while in the engine bay).

I am very happy and pleased to announce that Richard and I have taken over the Lister Petter Parts business run by Marine Engine Services of Uxbridge. Peter Thompson is retiring after only 35 years running this business and we have been in discussion with him for some time while we worked out what could be done, and how to do it. Peter and Marine Engine Services are very well known in the boating, particularly Lister Petter, world, and we aware that there have been rumours circulating that he is closing the business and selling off all the stock. Now the contracts have been signed I can confirm that the premises at Uxbridge will cease trading in Lister parts as from today, and the business is moving to Kenilworth. I intend to be open for business again on Wednesday 1st July, though with a large amount of stock to move and get organised I can't guarantee next day delivery for the first few days but I'll do my best. At the moment it will be mail order only, or collection by appointment. Those who have benefited from Peters great experience and expertise will be glad to know that he has offered to stay involved as technical expert and consultant, and I have very gladly accepted, So if I don't know the answer, and there will be lots I don't know yet, you can be sure I know a man who does. We will be contacting existing customers to let them know the new contact details, but in the meantime the new email address is sue@mes-midlands.co.uk and the phone number is 01926 356200. It's all happened quite quickly at the end, so I haven't got a new website just yet, but that's in hand. In the meantime the current Marine Engine Services site will have the new contact details. Later in the Summer I will also be buying Peters extensive collection of used and obsolete Lister parts, so will be able to help out with keeping all those historic engines running. Anyway, please wish me luck, and I'll do my very best to offer the same excellent service as Peter did. Sue

Hello there! I am new to this forum but see people are very helpful, so thought I'd try my luck and see if anyone can offer advice. I've recently bought my boat and done a fair amount of cruising over the past three weeks. Today as I was reversing, I tried to change to forward and the engine was stuck in reverse. It would not go into neutral or forwards at all. I stopped the engine. When I re-started it was still in reverse. It's a Lister Petter Alpha with a Delta 20 Gearbox. I read on another post in here that it could be something to do with oil level, but I have been in the engine bay with my headtorch for the past half hour and cannot see a dipstick for the gearbox oil. Does anyone know where this might be or if I am even on the right train of thought here? I don't know much about the engine yet but am learning as fast as I can. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help as I am currently stuck on the Shropshire Union. Sophie

Can anyone help me source a decent replacement air filter for my Lister TS2, which has a round flat air cleaner box a bit like a frying pan in shape. the old filter element is a strip of black foam between two metal mesh rings. size is 75mm high or 3 inch, 160mm outside diameter (6 .1/4 inch), and 110mm inside diameter (4.1/4 inch). Suggestions please.

Can some kind soul point me in the direction of a diagram, manual or drawing , description of how and where to install the main fuel pipe and the spill back pipe to a cruiser stern mounted two cylinder Lister TS2. the engine is on rubber mounts so am planning to connect the main piping with a short piece of ISO7840 rubber pipe, but I am a bit in the dark as to how the small bore piping for the spill back is installed/connected. Is there a source of fittings, are they 2mm? Richard A

As I have progressed with the engine install of a Lister TS2, I have realised that the TS2 I have been sold does not seem to have any sort of temperature switch or air temperature sender, although I have located and wired in the Oil pressure switch. does anyone have any diagrams etc which would point me in the right direction for an oil temperature switch and how to fit it, and maybe someone has a stock item, similarly there are a number of approx. 1/2" holes in the air cowling and I wondered if these were for air temperature switches ? Hope someone with Lister experience can shed some light. The Lister control panel I am installing has connections for three warning lights, i.e. Charge (obvious), Oil Pressure (already found and connected as above, and Temperature, for which the sensor/switch cannot be found. Richard

Hi Folks, In case you are missing your boating fix in these dark and cold days, here's a video I made, aboard Victoria, last summer boating up the North Oxford: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOsv7Vu2A6U Hope you enjoy, Mike

I am going to need to do a major service on our HRW2 next winter, if only to sort out an annoying small oil leak between the head and the block, but also to have a look around. The last time I stripped it down was over 3000 hours ago. So, I am looking for some spares, a gasket set for one, or at least the oil and water seals and a pump cover gasket. I am also of a mind to get a spare set of injector pumps and injectors. Also a set of injector pipes, as my spare pipes are now second-hand. Anyone know of any available, before I go through my usual source? Mike

Hi, I'm an absolute beginner, and know almost nothing about engines so please forgive my ignorance! So I've lived on my 50ft narrowboat (built 1989) for a year now and over the last couple of months the engine has been emitting lots of smoke, its sort of greyish-blue. Also, there is a large amount of (what I think is) oil leaking out. Finally when I turn the engine on to higher revs after a few minutes a loud banging noise starts, sounds like metal banging on to metal, which is disturbing so I turn the engine right down again which makes the noise stop. I think that all these issues are related, like maybe the oil leak is making the engine smoke and the lack of oil is somehow making the engine make the noise. What irritates me is that I took it in to a marina to have it serviced recently and all they said on the matter is that Listers are prone to do this, without any further explanation. I'd be really grateful if someone had any insights into it. As I said, I know almost nothing about engines so any help is much appreciated! Thanks! D

Has anybody got a copy of a wiring diagram for the Lister Control Panel which was attached to my SR2 on our narrowboat. It has a Lister logo on it and the usual keyswitch, Horn push(?), hours run meter and row of panel lights. As I'm new to this forum, I have a picture which I can email. thanks.