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Showing results for 'inverter' in topics updated in the last year.
Found 20 results
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Hi all! So currently myself and my partner are hooked up to shore power and we've not ventured out, but we're planning on going full time travelling later in the year so need to prepare! We recently had 4 new leisure batteries fitted with a victron charger and we'd like to fit an inverter for using the 240V. In our boat the lights, fridge and water pump run on the 12V, so we're mostly only looking to charge devices, toaster, kettle (though we can put one on the hob and use gas) and the TV. We also have a record player and a pretty hefty collection though we prepared to lay off the records whilst we're not hooked up! Does anyone have any good recommendations for an inverter that suits our system? Thanks in advance!
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We have a 12v fridge which has started becoming unreliable - not running when turned on at the switch, compressor running more often than it did when it does run - and we’ve just lost confidence in it. The options are to replace with a new 12v unit or ‘upgrade’ to a 230v unit, which poses a question: The present charger/inverter is a 1500w Sterling quasi-sine wave job - will that output a good enough wave to run a modern 230v fridge, or is this a ‘try it and see’ scenario?
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I have two old prosine 1800i inverters on the boat. Both ex ambulance as far as I know (eBay secondhand not very expensive type of thing working ok when I bought them ages ago). One of them has stopped working. Nothing from the 240 side. The fault light flashes and nothing can be done to make it work. I had it apart and its not a fuse but I don't know enough to check much more than that. Nothing went pop and no electronic smell or burnt circuits anywhere. Is it worth looking to have it repaired or just bin it? Its quite old equipment now so maybe an upgrade is worthwhile ? I am concerned that a lot of the more recent gear is poor quality.
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So far as I understand it, inverter motor washing machines use the inverter function to control the speed at which the drum rotates and helps iron out voltage spikes. Does this imply that an inverter motor machine will be more tolerant of a ‘dirty’ input current, and therefore less picky about what DC to AC inverter in supplying the AC current??
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can anyone tell me if this is suitable for use with AGM Batteries, cant seem to find reference to such in the manuals. On the unit is markeed for use with Lead Acid and li-ion batteries only but I ma assured by another boat user that it will be fine with AGMs. I have bought Rolls S12 240AGM RE batteries.
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Happy Easter boaties, have read a few posts but haven’t seen anything specific to this. So helping a friend planning a new install. He is refitting inverter and batteries. Currently a Victron 12/3000/120 multi and 5 wet lead leisure batteries 110ah. Hoping he can up the potential power and storage without changing loads and hopefully hook up a solar panel at the same time. So advice and any links for the following would be great! Ideally the inverter will be another Victron that is compatible with 5 AGM style batteries. With capability to run a solar panel (415w) without buying another unit. And is accessible by phone(Cerbo, GX?) He will be using the standard 12/24v as much as possible for fridge etc. But still needs 230v for things like TV, Sound bar, sound system, Gaming consoles, Hifi. Usage of power would be short weekend trips and a couple of bigger journeys, but mainly on shore power in a marina. He is aware of overload and discharging batteries. Doesn’t want to go lithium and doesn’t want to change all the wiring etc, in an ideal world! Thanks!
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Evening all, apologies if this post is in the wrong place. I am need of some advice regarding boat electrickery. The Inverter is not playing ball. when 1st turned on, it cycles through the lights/start up stuff, seems to work for about 2 seconds then shuts off. It then repeats the sequence after about 30 seconds and so on and so on. Everything appears to be wired up correctly. I unplgged the 240V outlet and it still does the same issue, so im leaning towards a dodgy inverter. I put a tester into the 240V plug and it shows "no earth" when connected to inverter (for the brief 2 seconds it produces power) but shows no issues when shore power is connected. The inverter is a Vetus 3000W puer sine wave inverter . Model number IV300012 Any advice/guidance would be greatly appreciated Many thanks, Kris
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Hey all, Looking for some advice. So I've had the same set of lead acid batteries for about 7 years now and they've basically given up the ghost. And while my boat was in the boat yard getting painted, the inverter went arse up due to being filled with sandblasting sand. So between the two, it's got me thinking about my electrics. Honestly, I don't use a lot of electrical items on the boat outside the lights, fridge, pump for shower, pump for water, bilge pump. Anything like running a laptop, TV etc. I just run off the built in battery (laptop/phone) and the TV is rarely turned on. In fact, I'm pretty sure it's also full of sand and knackered. So I'm beginning to wonder if replacing all the 4 lead acid domestic batteries and getting another inverter would be a waste of money? What I'm wondering is how few domestic batteries I can get away with installing to run the pumps, lights and fridge. 1 would be ideal but I suspect that might not be possible. Lights and pumps fine - fridge as well? Possibly not. I've also got 600w of solar on the roof. The fridge is one of those Inlander 12v conversions. For the money I'd spend on 4 batteries and another inverter, I could get one or two domestic batteries and one of those big Bluetti power stations (https://bluettipower.co.uk/products/bluetti-ac200max) for running any 240v stuff on the rare occasion 240v stuff gets run. Wondered if anyone has any advice/suggestions? What is a realistic minimum based on the above? Just thinking, I'd probably need an inverter of some kind to charge up the Bluetti. But maybe just a cheap and cheerful one rather than a fancy Victron one. Cheers!
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I have just picked up a replacement inverter, a Xantrex prosine 1000i. The manual states:- and from one of Gibbo's previous posts: I am quite willing to have a go at option 1.Killing myself, but to save me the effort, if anyone already has this model of inverter, and can advise if it can be neutral-earth bonded I would be pleased to save the crematorium the business. Thanks
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Hi all, i have created a couple of flow charts below which encompass 3 setups i'm playing around with in my head. The current setup is how i have it now. It has a separate inverter and charger, i manually set the selector switch and the charger switch when i want to swap from inverting to charging. I have a victron multiplus I want to install and in the short term to avoid a large rewiring situation in my engine bay I was considering the Temp Setup for minimal wire chaging. It should just be a matter of swapping the sterling charger for the victron and swapping the inverter cable to the AC out on the multiplus. It would appear to me from this setup that i would still need to manually swap between inverting and charging to avoid the multiplus charging off itself. I have two main questions I was hoping to get advice one for this. 1: Is there a better approach to the temp setup that would not require rewiring my generator output? 2: Does the New Setup actually make sense as an appropriate way to configure this? Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
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Hi, hoping someone can point me in the right direction. New (to us) boat, first long trip out. Previous boat had 6 leisure batteries, inverter and travel pack and the electrics were bombproof. This boat has 4 leisure batts, (440A/hr), and mastervolt 100A 12v inverter. No travel gen, (previous boat gen unit unbalanced the load on the cam shaft stub of the aged beta 43, and stripped it, leading to a hugely expensive new engine being required) Should be adequate I'd thought. But - finding the 240V system is unreliable once moored up - typically on day 2, and small kettle/remoska etc won't work - start and then stop, or don't start at all. Appear to have green light for both DC and AC power. Inverter light on master volt is on. All work again after the engine has been running for a bit. Is that simply to be expected? Or is it likely I am missing a simple switch, which is very likely, or should I get my inverter looked at?
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Hello fellow boaters, I have a Sterling Power inverter (Pro Power SBR 1600w) which when I switch it on flashes and blinks and I receive no power to the sockets. According to the manual (well a 2 page PDF) this indicates low voltage. But my voltmeter says I have over 13v and the inverter itself says the same. This happened before and then self corrected itself. I have no appliances currently plugged into the 240v circuit. I have tried switching on and off, but still it beeps. I am baffled as to what to do. Is my inverter busted and do I need a new one? Or is it something else? I'm happy to pay someone to fix the problem. I am moored in Islington. Thanks in advance.
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My boat fridge freezer is an A++ rated Libherre. About 12 season old and still cooling very well. My inverter is a 12/3000/120 Victron Multiplus so plenty of capacity to drive the fridge. I noticed the inverter was buzzing / humming quite loudly when the fridge kicks in. Nothing else on the boat 240v system causes this. Initially I thought it might be the inverter but now I'm thinking it's the fridge perhaps not behaving. I would value some knowledgeable thoughts on this issue. For example, would a fridge motor have a capacitor start? If so could this be an issue. Kevin
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Hi all Looks needing to use power tools on the 2kw pure sine inverter. When running these large loads with high inductances how wise is it to push the inverter? Or should leave a good over head like push no more than 1.5kw? Thanks again James -
I have unfortunately found 2 burnt resistors and a faulty mosfet on the Mastervolt 12/2000 inverter pcb. The resistor valve is unreadable namely R33 R34 which can be found adjacent the orange cap. Would any member be able to supply the resistor band colours or ohm value for the resistors? Mastervolt will not give out the detail. Thank you in advance
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Hello and good evening, I hope this quick question finds you in good health and good spirits. When I'm on shore power, I have a 230v pass through into my ring main with the inverter in the off position. The inverter is a combi charger and inverter. Should I have the inverter switched on constant to keep the batteries on charge ? Or would this burn through the metered electric needlessly ? Or should I have it on for three days and off for three days ? Three questions for the price of one, bargain. Thanks in advance. RF.
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Hello, just found this searching for answers to Sterling Combi Inverter problem. Saw a post from 2021 where shore power was dropping out for no reason. Same here but I also have alarms going off as soon as we try anything! Home mooring connected to shore power, batteries not charging and Inverter showing ‘trip overload’. I am unfortunately now widowed, my husband was the electrician, and did all the fit out himself, so not standard nb fit out! I know nothing about electrics, and not much experience on boats. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Hi all, I have the pictured Sterling inverter charger, probably about 15 years old as I think it was fitted to the boat from new. It has a power saving function which keeps the inverter in a standby mode until a demand is detected. The problem is it now seems to be having a problem detecting when there is demand, particularly from small draw devices. I believe that it is possible to deselect the power saving function? Just wondering if anyone has or has had this type and knows how to do it. I am currently working around the problem by switching on a 230v lamp which brings the inverter out of standby mode so that I can then use the device I actually want. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Hi All Does this look correct for wiring on the mains side of a combi? I've assumed RCD is needed on both the input and output but cant seem to find if this is the recommended way?
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Evening, Sorry if this has already been covered but I haven't been able to find it! I've been struggling with internet, trying to stream NetFlic, or do video calls and I've decided to upgrade to a 5G wifi router. (Whole separate learning curve there!). However, my real problem is that I'm currently running a low-usage 12v boat (one 'car socket' with a USB conversion, & a couple of plugs running from an inverter (+pumps etc.)). The router's come with a standard AC to 12v DC converter, so atm my 'quick fix' is to leave the inverter on and plug it in. However, I was hoping someone may have had a similar dilemma, is there a way I can run it off a USB socket? Or will I have to bite the bullet and install a new 12v cigarette lighter? Should I be scared of running the inverter? (Juice comes from 2 bog-standard 6v Trojans in series)
