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MichaelG

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  1. I own a narrowboat and over the last 30 years have owned a number of other types of boat and I thought it was a pretty sensible design feature, from the previous posts it seems some boat builders do too, but each to their own.
  2. A friend of mine had to attend a speed awareness course. The presenter split the attendees into small groups and showed them a point of view video of a car driving along a road, the video stops at the point a child emerges from a side turning into the path of the car. The group are given three scenarios and asked to discuss in their groups. 1. At 40 MPH the driver brakes but still hits the child who has a 20% chance of survival. 2. At 30 MPH the driver brakes but still hits the child who has an 80% chance of survival. 3. At 20 MPH the driver brakes and stops before reaching the child. After a period of time in their groups the presenter asks them for their comments and thoughts. One obviously very experienced and highly skilled driver immediately pipes up and explains with complete and unfettered authority, "if only the driver had been going at 60MPH he would have been past that junction before the kid even appeared". I think the presenter may have gone home and cried himself to sleep that night.
  3. And If you don't crash your car you won't need seatbelts.
  4. I recently saw a narrowboat with what was described as "an unsinkable weedhatch". It was a traditional style stern with the weedhatch directly under the stern deck hatch. There was a bulkhead a couple of inches forward of the hatch opening which extended down to the bottom of the weed hatch, effectively sealing off that area from the rest of the boat. I wondered how common place this design feature is. The safety advantage is obvious and I cant think of any negatives so I wonder why all narrowboats don't have them, I don't see that it would add much to the overall build costs of a new boat.
  5. Wow, what causes such significant damage, electrical erosion or plain old rusting?
  6. That's what I did when I bought my boat from a marina based brokers. My survey report was emailed to me by the surveyor within 24 hours. Some negotiation was had with the broker around some issues raised in the survey. It was agreed that they would remedy some of the issues prior to the conclusion of the sale and a price reduction was also agreed to take account of a few other issues that I would sort out post purchase. With that all agreed the boat was blacked before it was hauled back into the water. Basically if you don't have it done while it's already out then you will have to stump up again for the cranage and hardstanding fee when it comes out post purchase. You might want to ask the broker who would be liable for the cost of the blacking in the event the vendor was to withdraw from the sale at the last moment.
  7. Thanks for the recommendation. Is there an alternative to the bitumen based products? other than the two pack epoxy systems.
  8. Hello, so I'm now wondering which product to go for, Intertuff 16, SML Ballastic or Keelblack. They all seem to be in the same area pricewise give or take a few pounds. What would be the consensus on the best stuff to use?
  9. Hello, as in the post I won't have the benefit of a covered and heated area. The marina has a slipway and a large hardstanding that they can haul out onto. I was planning to do it in the spring but after the comments about temperature I will move it back to the summer. I also will be repainting the sides from the top of the blacking upto the side decks whilst the boat is out and repainting the top sides once she is back in the water. If the weather stops play it wont be possible for me to complete it all in one hit as I work full time.
  10. Hi, thanks for the advice. Is there a time period within which the second/third coats have to be applied. For example if the first coat went on and then rain stops play and I can't get the second/third coats on for a while would that cause any issues with the application.
  11. Hello, thanks for the replies. I wont have the benefit of a covered area, the marina has an open hardstanding area that they can haul boats out onto via a slipway. I can leave it until the warmer weather arrives. I don't know which product the Marina applied two years ago, the bill just says bitumen paint. I think it cost me about £700. I don't grudge paying for it to be done but I'm thinking if I I'm thinking if I do it myself I know how it's been done. Sorry for the two messages but the pooter seems to be going rogue on me.
  12. Hi all, I plan to have the boat out in the spring for blacking. It has only been done once since I've owned the boat and that was done two years ago by a marina so this will be the first time I've done it myself. The current coating is failing along the waterline so little patches of rust are coming through. Does anyone have any recommendations on which blacking to use, Intertuff seems quite popular. I presume there isn't any compatability issues between different brands as long as it is a bituminous based product going over a bituminous based product? What method of application works best, roller or brush. Also how many litres can I expect to need for a 57" narrowboat. I plan two coats and an extra coat along the waterline. I won't be doing the baseplate as it wasn't done previously and the boat will be on sleepers so too low to get to the baseplate. Thanks, Michael.
  13. Your not alone, I have this daunting task ahead next year too. The boat is coming out to be blacked in the spring, Luckily the marina I'm at has a slipway and an hydraulic lifting trailer to pull boats out and a large hardstanding area where you can do your own work. I plan to repaint the sides from the top of the blacking upto the gunells whilst on the hardstanding. Then the topsides will be done once back in the water. Painting in the marina is prohibited for obvious reasons, risk of neighbouring boats getting spattered and risk of spillages into the water or onto the pontoons etc. They do allow painting on the slipway though so that's the plan. We plan to sand the existing paintwork just enough to give a key then paint directly over. We've chosen similar colours to the existing ones so any scratches to the new paint wont be so obvious. We've bought Teamac marine gloss and will be rollering it on and tipping off with a brush. I wonder if anyone has used the Teamac gloss and how they found it to use?
  14. I can't say for residential moorings as I've never looked for one but I imagine they are hard to come by, but Ive never had any trouble finding a marina leisure mooring. We were looking to move marina last year and made enquiries at a few and all had a few spaces available. We ended up moving to one in Northamptonshire and they had a few spaces left. I guess some areas of the system are better served than others. Ive bought a number of boats from brokerages based in marinas and they have always offered a mooring so if you visit brokers it might be worth asking, it saves the hassle and stress of having to find a mooring straight away.
  15. If this young woman has an eye on her future financial security she would be much better advised to be investing the £1000 a month she currently spends on her boat loan and licensing fees into bricks and mortar. In ten years time she will have an asset that has appreciated in value, rather than a boat which will probably have depreciated. I would also say the expenses of running a small modern house are likely to be lower than the boat.
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