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Onewheeler

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Everything posted by Onewheeler

  1. Onewheeler
    Possibly a 610mm shower tray which is the current standard size. Google will find lots. Something may suit.
  2. Onewheeler
    Ours decided to separate into two halves recently. Held together with a bayonet fitting but without the clicky bit at the end. It dumped 250 L into the bilge.
  3. Onewheeler
    That's a pity, the C&L weren't bad for the price. I've just fitted a couple in my house. We were lucky to have bought just in time. It's worth adding some PVA to the joints to make them sturdier.
  4. Onewheeler
    It might be feasible if installed as an adjunct to a stove, and would make the boat feel very comfortable. Easier to fit on a new build. Maybe just fit it up the middle 1 m of the boat (assuming a narrowboat) as the edges are usually furniture. The ballast goes up the edges. Build a Celotex wall to separate the centre section from the ballast area, and line the baseplate with Celotex. Typcial heating mat is 150 - 200 W/m^2. 50 mm Celotex has an R-value of 2.25 m^2 K / W so a deltaT of say 40 K water to heat mat would only lose about 17 W/m^2 to the water, anything left would warm your feet. 10 m^2 of 150 W/m^2 would therefore put over 1300 W into the boat. Not enough to keep it fully heated but it would certainly make the boat feel more comfortable. Domestic underfloor relies on a low heat input over a large area. A narrowboat is only the area of a small room in a house.
  5. Onewheeler
    I'd try to keep it simple. Tank H has webasto and engine Tank V has solar (with its own pump and controller) and spare coil. Fit the Webasto outlet with a three way valve (including midway option) to feed H, V spare coil or both. Cold feed to V comes from hot outlet of H. DHW feed comes from V. Normal operation has Webasto going to V or use solar in V. Bathnight has Webasto powering H (and V if solar hasn't done much). It sounds as if you don't use the engine much, but otherwise you could arrange a small recirculation pump from hot side of V to cold side of H (with a NRV in the cold feed to H and an expansion tank) to get hot water to V. I don't know if you can get three-way valves for 12 V with a midway option, but otherwise take the actuator off and operate it manually (Womanually? Gender-non-specificually?) Some clever Arduino programming with sensors could help, or get very confusing! Martin/
  6. Onewheeler
    "Hardly no cavitation"??
  7. Onewheeler
    Might work if you've got enough space under the floor. However (without doing any sums) you would need a thick insulation layer as the area used over the baseplate would be large. Otherwise you'll be circulating heat from one side to t'other. Molten salt storage? ?
  8. Onewheeler
    If you've got that much electrical power then no problem! You'll have a large bath tank as a thermal store! Water has the highest thermal capacity of anything readily available, although it would be interesting to do a conceptual design using parafin wax as a thermal store using its latent heat of fusion.
  9. Onewheeler
    It's tempting, but for any reasonable heat output the electrical consumption (assuming that you go the more conventional route) gets a bit scary. A CoP of 4 would be good in practice even if the theoretical maximum is higher, you might be able to do better with a reliable heat sink like a canal and by keeping the output temperature low. Gas-fired absorption heat pumps are available, but you said somewhere that you don't want gas and you'll still need some electric for running mechanical pumps. (I'm looking at heat pumps for domestic use. Glad that I kept my old thermodynamics text book!)
  10. Onewheeler
    I'd bet there's no dip tube inside the tank. Edit: ignore that, I'd missed three pages of discussion!
  11. Onewheeler
    One could use a heat pump to warm the tank, with the canal water as heat source (heat conducted through the base plate). It would need a compressor for a more conventional system, but that could be mechanically powered using e.g. a gym stepping machine. After a couple of hours exercise a nice hot bath would be welcome. A diesel fired absorption heat pump would also work but I don't think anyone makes them. A market opportunity?
  12. Onewheeler
    I slapped some Zinsser all coat exterior black on our gunwales last year. Went on easily, covered well, looks good. From Screwfix. Supposed to be satin but it's fairly glossy.
  13. Onewheeler
    Having towed Vanessa from Abingdon to Eynsham, I can vouch that she is (mostly!) harmless and good company! It was a pleasant voyage, aside from a minor collision with Godstow Bridge in a strong cross wind and a couple of bumps going into locks. She was alongside our nb most of the way, other than some narrow bridge 'oles and all of the locks above Iffley where we towed her behind (oo-err!) I would have been happy to help again, but other commitments in the next few weeks make it unlikely.
  14. Onewheeler
    Please stay! You have a nice sense of humour. Ignore the r-soles.
  15. Onewheeler
    If, is suggested elsewhere, you use the bath as your heat store, you could insulate the surface with tesselating plastic ducks. Is that sufficiently out of the box? That tells you the delta P for laminar flow in a pipe. I've lost the plot as to what you're trying to calculate!
  16. Onewheeler
    I said I'd not done the heat transfer calcs. However, a flow rate through the 10 mm secondary of 2 L / min with a delta T of 40 C would take 5.6 kW of heat. Based on experience with a very differently configured heat exchanger I use for cooling wort with about 1 m of 10 mm pipe, the heat transfer rate probably isn't miles adrift.
  17. Onewheeler
    Plenty of c/f heat exchangers are home-made for brewing purposes. Just needs some imagination, and Bex doesn't seem short of that ? e.g. 10 x 15 x 15 tee at each end, with a short length of 15 mm Cu pipe into plastic fittings. Ream out the 10mm end so that the pipe will pass through.
  18. Onewheeler
    You could save a second Webasto by putting a small c/f h/x between your existing Webasto and calorifier coil with a switched pump that feeds secondary side water around your bathtime tank (or bath). It would have no effect on the normal operation of heating the calorifier. Without doing the heat transfer calculations, maybe a metre or so of 10 mm copper tube on the secondary inside 15 mm plastic tube carrying the primary, the whole lot insulated and coiled. Martin/
  19. Onewheeler
    When I were a lad, we had a galvanised steel bath. Filled it from kettle and saucepans on t'gas cooker every Friday night. Youth of today don't know they've been born etc...
  20. Onewheeler
    Bath with a friend and double the displacement ? 210 L is a lot of water in a bath unless you want to swim lengths. I reckon we use less than 100 L in a corner bath at home.
  21. Onewheeler
    The location of my small exhaust leak was obvious from the transient puff of smoke on starting the engine from cold.
  22. Onewheeler
    It clearly says primary side max 3.5 bar and working head (presumably secondary) 10 m (1 bar). I'd take that as engine side 3 bar and domestic side 1 bar. Heat usually flows from primary to secondary.
  23. Onewheeler
    Look for BA15D. BA15S are single contact, BAY15D have offset bayonet pins (often found in nav lights). Loads on Ebay or the usual LED suppliers.
  24. Onewheeler
    They're 12 V lamps and the batteries are delivering over 13 V? If so they won't last long...
  25. Onewheeler
    Tried it with the missus. Made her smell right funny and she wouldn't let me near her for several days.
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