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  1. Just for the record, I've got the circulation pump connected to the 12v fuse board and wired completely separate. This allows me to use the Webasto as a functioning heater. It's only a temp fix until the refurbisher is back off his holiday so he can send me a new wiring loom (he thinks this is the issue). Will update once the new loom turns up.
  2. Still overheats when plugged back together. Pointing towards a manufacturing problem. What a long process of elimination!
  3. Ok, I've made a bit of progress. Finally. I connected the circulation pump directly to a battery and it pumped water around freely. I then turned the webasto unit on and ran that, with the pump still on the seperate feed, for about 5 minutes and have managed to get hot water into all of the rads. This to me is a huge step in solving the issue here. Now, does anyone know what this may be?
  4. The 28mm pipe is the black flexiable hose running from the webasto to the bulkhead, 28mm external, 19mm internal. After the bulkhead the 22mm pipe starts. I'm assuming that the pump starts circulating the water because within two minutes of the shut down cycle the webasto unit and the black hose go from being too hot to touch to being room temperature again. I thought this was due to tje pump circulating.. It's all terribly confusing to be honest.
  5. Hello Boaters, I'm soon to fit the multi-fuel stove on my 57'x10' boat and have been trying to work out what flue system to install. The stove is the Ecosy+ Ottawa 5kw curve with stand. I realise there are going to be people advising both options but talking it through with you folk will help me come to a conclusion. I would prefer to fit the single wall, standard, non insulated 5" flue for these reasons: - I already have the flue needed and wouldn't have to buy a new insulated system, - I don't like the size and chunk of having a 7" flue in my boat.
  6. I have flow and return pipes, 22mm, which run down the length of the boat, the rads are all teed off these pipes with 15mm pipe. All the valves are open and the TRV is still fitted but I can't see why it would be a problem on this system as it is teed off the main feeds.
  7. So the pump is attached to the unit, as in the picture. I don't think it's a Webasto pump, as the fuel pump isn't and the unit is a recon so I wouldn't be surprised if the parts were cheap replacements. The return pipe is coming directly from the header tank into the Webasto unit, via two elbow bends. The pipes are most definitely the right way around, as in the flow is the flow and the return is the return.
  8. I tried to upload a video of the webasto trying to start up but it was struggling. I'm still at the same point. I've bled plenty by of coolant from multiple points on the system. Once the heater has cut out due to over heating it starts it's shut down cycle (I've assumed) in which cold water is easily pumped around the system until the unit is back to being w normal cool temperature. I don't know how this could work if there was air trapped. Sorry I didn't reply to the bucket trick but it didn't seem like the best test for me.
  9. Not sure if this is of use to anyone but it's what I'm dealing with.
  10. Ok, I've just lowered the pump by about 8 inches. When it says that the pump is not self sucking, does that mean its relying on the water feeding itself into the pump, then the pump can push it around, not pull it as well? It still cut out, I will try draining the excess steam now (already scolded myself once today) then I will attempt a restart.
  11. I've bled the air out of the system though, I don't think this is the issue. Dropping the unit will lower its overall height but the supply pipe will always have a bend, creating a little possible air trap, no matter how low it goes. Regardless of this I have spent the last two hours bleeding litres and litres of coolant out of the pipes, which would have pushed any air out, but the unit is still boiling the water and the pump seems to turn off. I don't see why the pump would turn off while the unit is still heating water if there was air trapped.
  12. Right, quick update. I went into the boat yard to buy various bits for the bleed points but was advised to try bleeding the webasto unit again. This advice was from a Webasto installer. I've just finished bleeding and there was a lot of air in there but I think this was mostly steam from the boiling of the water. Apparently the pump is plenty strong enough to push the air bubbles to the natural bleed points. Still there is no real progress. The pump seems to work fine for a minute or two, I can hear the water moving around the inside of the boat but then heater starts t
  13. Thanks for that Tony. I couldn't get the plastic pushfit pipe to fit inside the felxiable pipe, even when heated and lubricated, does the copper pipe have a smaller outer diameter, if so then that may well work. Just thought and they actually have to be the same size to fit into the same fittings.
  14. Any advice on where I could find a T for the 28mm hose? And then what sort of valve could I put on that? I'll try to call in to The Boat Yard after work tomorrow and see what they have.
  15. Would the air not move downward even if it was being pushed by water? I think Mike mentioned earlier that once the airlock is dealt with any remaining air in the system should be pushed around and find the natural high points in the rads and header tank etc. The supply pipe to the webasto will always enter on a bend, which means it will have its own little air trap there. Can anyone recommend a bleeding valve which would fit onto the black hose pipe? I will try bleeding the unit again tomorrow when the sun comes back. I managed to get a few bubbles out of my new bleed v
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