Onewheeler

Depending on how you feel, it might be easiest to run trunking or conduit either under the gunwhales or at shirting board level. My inclination (what I've done) is to run mains wiring around the boat (keeping it separate from 12 V) and use an invertor or shore power as much as possible. Main exceptions are lighting and some USB outlets which run off 12 V. Our current fridge is 12 V on the UK boat, but when it dies (it's 27 years old) it will be replaced with a mains fridge.

I think you'll find that the speed of the water may be less than you think. Last time I went out in a flood (marginal yellow / red boards) I reckon the current below Osney (where it does whizz through) was mostly around 4 - 5 km / h. It was probably faster above Osney, but it's fast there whenever there's fresh. We made progress but slowly. It was going much faster through Folly Bridge. Beware of bridges, they are dangerous in flood conditions. Even in the 2014 floods I doubt if the current was much faster than that. Calibrated pooh sticks are the easiest measuring device.

Yes. My wording could have been better. I blame the gin. History of science, by the Bodleian. Natural history is going towards the University Parks. A lovely building, I'm always taken aback by how mediocre the view is from the roof of the Ashmolean. Nary a dreaming spire to be seen. A nice place for a drink though when it reopens.

I think you mean the Museum of the History of Science. It's scary when you find exhibits of things that you've owned or used.

Yes! We moor in Oxford but a graduate of the light blue. If one likes art, the Stanley Spencer gallery in Cookham is an essential stop. The Ashmolean in Oxford is good too.

Sleeping bags + mats. Over the years, I've had a double futon / sofa bed (had to cut the end off so it would lay flat across the boat), a big wooden box with a cushion on top (good for sleeping and storage, unsightly and uncomfortable for sitting on) and now a single futon / sofa bed with a storage box underneath (comfy to sit on and a good compromise: something like this https://www.futoncompany.co.uk/sofa-beds/size/single/oak-switch-sofa-bed.html but I paid less than £200 from the same shop in Oxford).

Apologies. I thought you were referring to the workshop manual which I've got from one of the dealers which is not particularly helpful. That link is, I think, the one I was looking for. Ta very much!

Ta! I think that's what is downloaded from Butler's. It was the helpful useful guide with photos that I was hoping to find.

Yes, I'd found that. Someone had written a very detailed set of instructions with photos and I'm fairly sure that it was a pinned post here. Going back several years.

I might be imagining it, but I think there used to be a service / repair illustrated guide here as a sticky post on one of the sub-fora. Can anyone point me to it please? Martin/

I've had this with an iffy connection in the power feed. The heater pulls about 20 A at startup so a poor connection will pull the voltage down. Never traced in unequivocally but wiggling and tightening everything sorted it.

Can't have that, the missus has veggie tendencies. It doesn't stop her drinking beer though.

Ta chaps or whatever you identify as. I'll find some of the high temperature mastic stuff. There's a tube somewhere in the garage.

I'm fitting a new rope seal to the door of my Boatman stove. Would one normally add some cement or high temperature mastic to hold it in place? Martin/

Yes, that has an effect and is probably comparable in magnitude to barometric changes and wind turbulence.

I've always been rather sceptical of the need to keep the tank full, as I suspect that the number of air changes in the ullage over the course of a year is fairly small. The driving force for exchange is the slow variation in external air pressure as weather fronts go past, and probably more importantly the rapid fluctuation in pressure due to wind. A few years ago I did a study on the exchange rate in a vented nuclear reactor containment. I can't remember the details but the annual number of volume exchanges was quite small. In a fuel tank, the smaller the ullage the less water vapour will be drawn in. As it doesn't hurt to keep the tank full I try do so, but don't get obsessive about it.

Why not take a relay out and measure the coil resistance.

I think I got some from B&Q, but it was a long time ago.

Horns, in my experience, need to be treated as disposable and need replacing every few years. Maybe the weather or the spiders inside.

Yes, probably ok. The girl child left her car on our driveway for a month with one of those gps black boxes fitted for her insurance. It was flat as Miss Norfolk when it came to start it. At that point we discovered that some scumbag had tried to screwdriver both locks so we couldn't get in. I now know how to break in to a Peugeot 107 with no signs of damage. The battery was fine after a charge.

Italian cars too. I was going to change the feeble battery on a girlfriend's Fiat, but gave up when it became apparent that the brake master cylinder would have to come off first.

You're asking sensible questions. Amongst those that you haven't asked: How to heat the boat? In order of expense, probably LPG > diesel > kerosene (needs a second tank) > solid fuel (coal / wood). Electric is probably a bit cheaper than diesel but not usable if you go cruising. Hot water? An electric immersion is probably the most economic and convenient if you're in a marina, usually fairly easy to arrange if it's not already in the calorifier. A 1 kW immersion left on for a few hours may be better than a larger, domestic sized one used for a short period. Ask away...

How do you know when you've passed an angler? You can't get the seat down. Bye!

A few m of 22 swg wire in a bucket of water? (Other gauges are available).