Bobbybass

I did that. Mine was just 'water bounce' Hung polystyrene cups under the vents. Worked great.

I looked at a boat that a couple had owned for two years. They had bought it with a supposedly full survey that said it was good. Sprung a leak and cost £12,000 in plating. I figured that the recent plating should be ok but commissioned my own hull survey. Turned out to be a total colander at the stern... needing another £10,000. I walked away...

Most hair driers are about 2000 watts....on full heat at 240 volts (roughly) That will draw about 160 amps from your batteries at 12 volts .....

I have a screw on filter....so I fill it with fresh fuel before spinning it back on. That usually does the trick...but on a few occasions I have slackened one or two of the pipes at the injectors and turned over the engine. As it starts to fire I tighten them.

I thought it was only the Gel coat that made GRP waterproof...and that if it was damaged.....you got osmosis that made your boat look like bubble wrap.... I viewed some cruisers with osmosis...and they looked very.......bubbly

Having owned several boats....I never go over the top on items like this. If I spend a lot of money ..potential future purchasers won't accept my invoices for work carried out anyway, in fact I found it scares them off. Trying to reassure by saying I had it all done and they have nothing to worry about....leaves them running away...plus their own surveyor then spotlights it to a greater extent. My own philosophy is to carry out work to stop it sinking...and then get cruising. Weld pits...grind...vactan......Comastic...get cruising....

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Well....to be honest with you.....I was so proud of the pipework that I took some Braso to it... ???

Last year I obtained this old Eber from a van...and fitted it to my boat. Was pleased with how it ran...but being bored in lockdown I brought it home and reworked it. I had the header tank separate from it...but wanted the whole assembly in one place. Trouble was that the header tank would have been a nuisance as it would have been in the way of the engine hatch. This photo shows the whole unit laying at 90 degrees to where it would be. The thick brown board bolts right through the side of the boat. As you can see, I have now used a low level tank from an Audi. I have mounted this on a kitchen drawer runner which is extended in the photo. When the tank is pushed back it's locked with a bolt...thus it is tucked back under my rear deck out of the way. The tank feeds the inlet of the water pump which is at the lowest point. The exhaust ( not shown ) is a proper stainless ...sealed marine unit. it's now simple to remove the entire assembly for service and repair. I rewired the unit and originally had a thermostat...but only use it for a few hours so replaced that with a simple on)off. It powers two radiators in the hall...one small radiator in the bathroom plus a bathroom blow heater which makes it red hot....a blow heater in the lounge ...and the calorifier. Simple unbolt from boat..one each inlet/outlet pipes...4 wires ..fuel.. exhaust..and it's all out and can be run on the bench. Whole system including pipes and rads..£400 Enjoy .!...(and criticise...?)

I can see these being taken off and chucked in the river on day one....

Sorry.... I should have added. The £10 charge is for overnight.....it's free during the day....... The lady comes around at about 7am... Some people.....make off at 6.45am ?

Wallingford is now £10 a night...and the lady is hot on collecting just before 7am....

Depends if you have a leather hat...

I have scratches on the side of ,my car... I'd better buy one of these quick...!!!

Get the exhaust wrong...leaking carbon monoxide...and you'll be keeping warm with the angels. I've seen several boats with the car/ van type silencer which is just two halves pressed together in the middle. If you block one end with your hand and blow into it...the air just gushes out of the joint. The carbon monoxide will do the same. If your heater is in the engine compartment...it will fill that with deadly fumes which will then flow into your cabin. The photo I attached is a stainless steel marine exhaust...and as you can see...it's continuously welded and sealed. You need.....a person who knows exactly what they're doing. !!

It must have a marine quality exhaust venting properly sealed to the outside if the boat. The heater pumps out masses of deadly carbon monoxide...

How about this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inflatable-Adult-Bath-Tub-Portable-Blow-Up-Travel-SPA-Massage-Bath-Pool-Foldable-/294066953730?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

You can stay from 12th April...?

I assume.....they don't actually stay on the boat ? They are getting on in years....and have little experience........so why the seventy footer ???? It was ok going up in the locks.....but inexperience.......avoiding the cill when its a 72 foot lock...? Guess....there were unseen hands when the camera stopped..........

No.... I looked at your diagram....and was curious. Some people talking of excess wind power etc...make sense.

But...what do you use to produce the huge amounts of electricity...needed for electrolysis? Can't be the hydrogen ...as you need something to produce the hydrogen in the first place...and you don't get energy for nothing?

Sounds encouraging...but what is required to produce the hydrogen?