Rob Stuthridge

That makes sense. I think we have plenty to do on the boat while waiting for the coats to dry. Thank you!

It will probably suffice, but we negotiated enough off the asking price specifically to 2-pack the boat. I would feel dishonest if we then chose to not get the work done and would feel the need to reimburse the seller (it's just who I am as a person, no point arguing). So I think we will do the very best we can for the boat, even if it's slightly overkill. I'm happy to use a 'get-us'by' temporary blacking, provided the hull doesn't deteriorate further, then go ahead with the 2-pack. Thanks though Bobby!

Thanks for that, stagedamager.

That's what we wondered, Ditchcrawler...but we'd still want to treat any rust before blacking. We're only concerned that we do enough to prevent deterioration until its 2-packed.

I've just reserved grit-blasting and 2-pack epoxy treatment at Tarleton Boatyard for June/July 2022 with an option to potentially bring the boat in earlier if they get a cancellation. So I'm leaning towards modified option 2: Wire brush, apply Fertan - rinse off, wait 48 hours to dry, apply 3 coats of bitumen on the whole hull with 4 at the waterline. I don't have facilities at the yard to get the baseplate blacked, so will need to leave that as is for now, but will look at having it grit blasted and 2-packed at Tarleton next summer.

I see, thank you. I'll remember that. Thank you Matty.

Thanks Tracy, the baseplate is in good shape, so no treatment or protection was advised by the marine surveyor. What do you mean by 'modified' bitumen? Do you have a technical / performance reason for advocating use of Fertan rather than Vactan?

Thanks Richard, we would do the epoxy anyway, but I accept that the bitumen and other treatment you suggest will give good protection. The boat had not been out of the water for 5 years, constantly moored and on shore power, hence the deterioration. I think if it had been lifted and blacked halfway through that time, we would have a better hull than we do. I like the sound of the solution you describe.

I'm sure this must have been done to death, but at risk of being flamed, here we go... Yesterday my wife and I completed the purchase of our first NB, a 2004 55' John White boat. Pre-purchase survey highlighted a few galvanic corrosion pits that should be spot welded before blacking in 2-pack epoxy. The boat has lived on a marina with shore power for the past 7 years, thankfully not moored against metal, otherwise the corrosion would have been much worse. Needless to say we will be fitting an isolating transformer and / or galvanic isolator. So protecting the hull is a priority. However, for the time being we simply can't afford** to get it grit blasted and 2-packed, so we plan for now to get the welding done then get it bitumen blacked. We plan on having it blasted and 2-packed next Spring. My question is should we: Wire brush the surface after welding and apply 3 coats of bitumen, or Wire brush, apply Fertan then apply 3 coats of bitumen, Wire brush, apply Vactan then apply 3 coats of bitumen. None of the above - do something completely different? I don't mind spending the time applying rust converter, but only if it's worthwhile, bearing in mind the boat will be out for a long-term hull treatment in a year's time. How likely is a hull coated only in bitumen to deteriorate externally in 12 months? We will be putting on new anodes, of course. **we can afford to get the blasting and 2-pack done, but with £2000 round trip to lift and transport the boat to a gritblasting facility, plus we want thermal zinc treatment under the 2-pack, we need to budget £5-£6k for the work. As inexperienced boaters, we can't get insurance for tidal waterways until we pass a helmsmanship course - as we are on the Lancaster canal, we would need to cross the Ribble Link to get everything done without road transport. So we're kind of trapped into this short-term solution. Thanks in advance for any guidance. The boat's out of the water now, so I have all options available before putting her back in the water.

Thanks. I've been told always to stand forward of the tiller because of just that reason.

Ha ha...sorry Sea Dog, married to a Yank, so 'bite me' is always meant in jest also! Thanks for the welcome. I'm a NB-info sponge right now, currently in the process of finalising a boat purchase for the first time...tomorrow should be the day, hopefully, when she belongs to us. This forum is absolutely golden with so much experience and great information, even the older stuff. ?

Er...I only joined a week ago! This thread is 'new to me', so bite me.

Rick, newbie question - what are "suicide seats"? Are they those little flat, backless seats sometimes seen on the rear edge of the stern? I'd assume there's a risk of falling backwards into the water, if bumped?

Ha ha. Nice one. I have been following this with interest, being about to embark on the solar-power odyssey myself.