PaulJ

Yep I do feet and millimetres too..

Have 2JHR sat in my unit and due to fit it hopefully soon in my own boat. If it has a Hurth box on it it wants a Right hand prop- mines going onto a 1 1/2 " shaft and have not long ago bought a 20 x 16 prop.Engine manual, prop calc and Norris's came up with similar size. Crowthers did suggest a 23 inch by ?? initially as being the ideal but I only have room for 20 inch. Engine bed wise the bearers need to be internally approx 12 1/2 inches apart and approx 1 inch above the centre of propshaft - the whole engine including the gearbox is 1 metre long. Dont think there is a drawing in the manual but have loads of dimensions, photos etc if you need any more info. Manuals / parts lists online - will have the links to them somewhere but on moby at moment .

The silicone is good but unlike fire cement it does not like to be in direct contact with flames so make sure you pack out with glass rope if need be.

Envirograf gets my vote too. Used it on quite a few stoves but always give it plenty of time to cure.

Andy from AC Coachtrimming.07885658462 Top bloke , local ish and does a good job.

tz55uk, If you cant get someone like Martin from Kedian (eg proven experienced in nb steelwork) to look at your hull it may be money well spent at this point to get a surveyor in to assess the extent of repairs and finishing off that need doing to make it canal worthy. I appreciate of course that is not a recent photo and the hull / cabin may have had alot of work done to it since - in which case please ignore.

And the next is ' you get what you pay for' - so beware anything that isnt expensive or has no branding on it eg Buffulo Board- as its probably rubbish and will delaminate in months. Guess how I know this..

I would guess that the engine mounts are either too soft and flexible or more likely they are probably badly adjusted diagonally and causing the engine to rock. I would agree a plummer block would take the stress off the stern tube but would cause even more stress on the flexible coupling/ output shaft unless it is aligned really well.

Yes. You are right. Probably should be mandatory on private boats- would help stop overplated springers with air cooled engines sinking then.

It doesnt matter if the drain holes are lower than ten inches IF any opening like the door, for example, is ten inches or higher above normal water line.

Julielucy - pm not recieved until this morning - reply sent.

I was talking to him on the towpath opposite the boathouse at braunston on the 22nd at about midday ish. (I left at 12.30)Nice chap we were having a good laugh. His beard is longer now than his photo. Said he had been stuck at Braunston for a week while he was waiting for a prescription -which he had just got and was keen to get moving again-I think he was heading North but I am not sure. Sorry if this is not much help- wishing Joe well from the bloke outside the boatman , moving a boat, when you see him...

There you go - before it got varnished

Give DW Mouldings a try- they have a place at Sandy and Tottenham. Made some Ash T & G for me to order but will do it in most timbers I would think.

Could be a Buckingham? posted same time as magnetman...

Fittings are called twist and lock. Cant do a link on phone but op may find this helpful - http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=v15bN3ATVcE Looks like I can do link after all...

You have to also push the outer rings / collets in and hold them in as you pull the pipe out ( once you have undone the nuts as mtb says..)

1st Ade- absolutely no apology needed. I would only hope in a similar situation someone would go out their way and take the time and effort to alert me. Hopefully someone will notify owner before too long if this hasnt happened already..

PM sent

Mark centre on porthole with tape. Cut the panel to size and fit . Mark where you think centre of porthole should be as accurately as can. Remove panel and then drill say a 2 inch hole- refit panel and then you can see the centre of porthole hopefully and mark up accurately.

Aplogies if this is too obvious but is there much play on the prop shaft if you give the prop a good shake? Or as you said the boat was going through a narrow bit (presumably at higher revs) either the trim of boat / hirers sat on front couldnt have caused a bit of air being sucked into prop maybe? typed at same time but slower thsn tb!

Brownshill now open..

Is the lift pump electric ? (The bigger shires are) If so you should just be able to switch on the ignition and just a case of letting the air out. Sounds like lift pump is either knackered or you got a problem with the fuel line to the lift pump.(assuming its an electric type...) Snap.posted at same time as keeping up..