PaulJ

You wont need to. Just fit the gulper sraight to the shower drain. Simples! I once fitted a shower into a narrowboat that had quite a low cabin and the screen wouldnt fit. With a bit of mucking about I fitted the tray so it was level with the floor. Actually looked pretty good but was a bit of extra work to do.

This isnt actually in a narrowboat-its in a rather shiny wooden cruiser. The walls were lined with a 2.5mm lining- the brand name escapes me at the moment. I used this instead of the usual formica sheet as it was a difficult shape to bond in -formicas are a bit flexy when you are using contact adhesive in a small space. It worked well as it didnt show any bumps as bad as formica can. The floor is laminated ply/west epoxy and made convex with the drain in the lowest point and leading to a sump underneath (accessible to the side) The floor covering is just non slip lino. Loo and sink are floating so the floor is very easy to mop up. ETA Wall Lining was Altro Whiterock or similar

Well it was a visually well executed modification when I passed it anyhow lol.

Interested on other peoples views on Powerline (or Pureline) T105 's. The Powerline T105s are, to quote Tayna batteries - "High performance deep cycle battery at a very competitive price. Manufactured by Trojan you can be sure of the highest quality and performance" Tayna are selling these at £384.95 for four. The Trojans are £489.95- (plus delivery charge on both at £37.99) I have contacted Tayna and they have confirmed the weight is the same as the Trojans at 28kg. Must admit I am very tempted as they are not that much more than 'cheap' batteries. Whoops-spelt 'Equivalent' wrong!!

There you go DC- not my photo- but the same boat

Chas78- Not something I would want to do personally but each to their own :-) Have a look at a Project 31 - this had an 'extension 'added to an existing mould of a well known maker I cant remember the name of https://goo.gl/images/ihycfl Also Dolphin Boats- this was actually a 'pod' containing the water heater,fuel tank and outboard but was basically just bolted on the back of a hull http://www.jonesboatyard.co.uk/boat-sales/dolphin-16-boat-for-sale-6439.html

The fuel line on my outboard tank is 8mm. I have had several different fittings on it according to whatever outboard I was using it for at that time. None of them were a Honda I will admit- but in many years of fiddling I cannot ever remember a fitting that didnt fit any standard fuel line.Too be fair I have never thought about the internal diameter of one either! If I remember I will look at one tomorrow - just to satisfy my own curiousity if nothing else :-)

Has the engine not got an instrument panel ? The 'basic' panel (no gauges) have a warning buzzer/light for oil and water temp. Your tank will still drain from the bottom hose- if it doesnt stop running you will know it isnt a skin tank lol. As Reg said, it makes sense to put the tank on the outside if done when putting different engine in. I would suggest once you have refilled to run the engine and keep checking the pipes , feel the tank etc for circulation. It has been a while since I last played with one of these engines- I do seem to recall a filler plug on top of the engine where I did the bulk of the filling from. Your emgine may be different and Im sure someone here can advise better than me on that..

My thoughts exactly-maybe some pipes externally even ? Sorry OP - dont mean to make it sound worse lol. Maybe worth getting some one local to have a look just to be sure..

IF your engine was heat exchange cooled you would not be using a skin tank. The raw river/canal water indirectly cools the engine by passing over the heat exchanger (which would be in the exhaust header) and is then squirted out either mixed with the (wet) exhaust or through a skin fitting through the hull. The raw water would have to be drained as if it froze and split a pipe you could sink the boat! Heat exchanged engines also have to have two water pumps. Hope this makes sense- like most I much prefer keel cooled engines. :-)

Froggy-from what I can see from your photo you have a dry exhaust-as I can make out the standard Barrus wrap over exhaust manifold jacket and lagging on the pipe. So yours is a standard keel cooled system.But dont take my word on it as Im only going on what I can see..lol

Your gas hob installation will be fine as long as it does not obstruct 'an escape hatch' (Please note IF your hatch is considered as such of course- without knowing the layout of your boat)

Hello Mike. Pretty straightforward job really. The only thing to worry about catching fire is either the bloke sticking them on or anything that maybe on the other side of the hull (shouldnt be but always worth a check) :-)

Use a 20mm brass cable gland. Any electrical counter will sell them- the type with the rubber washer that grips the outer will be OK as long as it is above the regulator height.I am guessing your pipe is actually standard 15mm - just the plastic covering that makes it 20mm ? Fairlines used to use similar for their gas pipes (albeit a bit smaller).

Sounds like you will be up and running soon then. Great stuff.. :-)

I was at Stretham Dry Dock changing a prop on my way to Braunston and met you briefly as you was heading to Hermitage. Hello again :-)

I would make two cruising plans- a wet weather and a dry weather plan! I would not go further than hermitage lock if it has been raining a bit as you are likely to get stuck. Last April I spent a couple of days with a disgruntled Black Prince hirer at St Ives. They had got through OK -but the River was then shut at St Ives, Brownshill and subject to fitting under Road bridge at Hermitage! The hirers ran out of holiday,had to leave the boat and boatyard came out to pick it up when the River reopened. If its dry though-go for it. Best bit of River starts at Brownshill onwards to Bedford.

Great story about your pipes there JohnO :-) I had noticed the pipe on the inlet side have quite a pulse to them :-D I have wondered if this might be in part, the cause of the leak in my calorifier coil- its made of that convaluted copper stuff. My thoughts were also the same as yours regarding the overplated skin tanks. BUT...IF they are like the one in my pic then my thought is now that as long as the baseplate hasnt been overplated there is probably about 8- 10 sq ft of cooling area on the baseplate of the combined tanks. Plus the engine beds and hull sides will also act as a further heat sink. Maybe not perfect but I reckon that might just work. So there you go Chop- my 2017 optimism :-D

Chop-Think I may have misunderstood your skin tanks dilema :-D I had presumed your tanks to be vertical. Do they by any chance look something like this one ? -(this photo was taken as I started to weld on a new vertical 'extension' to the original tank).

Well obviously not that unusual then..:-DChop- welcome anytime- try and pick a nice dry day though :-D Have a look here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182399737693 Any good ?

Thats unusual on the tanks. I would hope the cold feed pipe is a pick up and goes to the bottom of the tank? Alot (if not all ?) jabsco pumps show both directions of rotation on the impeller front plate and you select the inlet and outlet ports accordingly. Would treat it to a new impeller if changing direction though! If yours is a foot mounted/ fan belt driven pump and you cant do that then mount it backwards! Im not intending to fit a one way valve to calorifier because I was hoping that as the pump is a diaphragm type it wouldnt circulate anyhow. But as my calorifier decided to leak fresh water into the engine coil Ive removed all the pipework and put it back to standard for now anyhow.:-D Happy New Year To All...

Thanks Rob- Had a few good runs out with it now - am really impressed with how well it handles against both wind and bit of flow :-) Think may have to put a bit of a silencer on it though as it is just a straight bit of pipe at the moment :-)

Point taken, it wont be as efficient but a well thought out horizontal tank will still cool better than an inadequate vertical tank ! My own tank is partly horizontally and seems to overcool (though it is a bit oversized too) OP may like to have a look here -http://betamarine.co.uk/keel-cooling-calculations/