Nobag

Screwfix do the filter cartridges.

Shut all the rads off except for one, see if you can get flow to that one.

But no grand slam.

Spect they pay extra for the recycling bin.

In Saul Junction they have 3 X 1100 bins in the car park. 2 general waste , 1 recycling. All emptied into the same lorry. How does that work.

Use exhaust paste on the joints.

If you connect the pump back up to the boiler and it still does not work properly, then I would think the PCB is faulty.

Close both radiator valves on each one to keep the antifreeze/water in, drain the 22mm loop into a container for reuse. Then do the bucket test from YouTube video. At least you can rule out a faulty heater or not.

All i can say is that i used this method to test mine before i fitted it to the boat. There are many video's on YouTube showing people testing these units.

Why don't you disconnect the two rubber hoses from the pipework and put them in a bucket of water and then run the heater. just to check it will fire up and run.

Thanks, I going to refit it tomorrow. Might be lucky.

Thanks, the engine was running around 1300 rpm . The problem that I have is that to get the alternator started, I have to run the engine at very high revs which I would rather not do, especially when it is starting from cold.

Thanks, the voltage is around 13.8 and 27 amps when first started. The fan belt is tight about half inch free play. If I touch a wire from the battery positive to the D+ the alternator starts working and the warning light goes out on tickover.

I have to rev the Barrus Shire engine quite fast to get the alternator working. I have put a larger 4w bulb in to try and boost the voltage from the charge light circuit. Checking the voltage at the alternator it was 1.45v on the charge light circuit, when I disconnected the wire from the alternator I got battery voltage. Is there a fix for this or is it new alternator time. Thanks for any help.