Eeyore

Changing the prop will make no difference in this situation. As Tony says, the width and depth of the channel determines the water flow to the prop. You may reduce the engine revs by fitting a coarser prop, but will end up sitting in the mud at exactly the same speed as before. The 4mph limit on canals is rarely achievable; even planning a journey at 3mph is a struggle. Slow down, relax and enjoy being overtaken by pedestrians.

What he said.

The question is why do you think the 16 x 11 is wrong? Do you know that it’s not the size fitted from new? My BMC 1.5 fitted 44ft boat was quite troublesome with a 17 x 12, too fast at idle (which was already set low) and in and out of gear much too often when manoeuvring slowly.

It might not be a "ball of corrosion"; but that all (including the ones on the hull mounted stud) needs disconnecting and cleaning up with a "scotch pad". The washers on the main terminals appear to be steel; but should be brass or stainless steel. Remove the RJxx plug and the red lead, then the circuit board can be removed by removing the two mounting screws. The contact pads and connectors on the circuit board are best cleaned using a contact cleaning spray; you can also clean the plug using the same spray. Might not cure the problem; but certainly won't do any harm.

Just the usual questions. How old are the batteries? Have you “exercised” the battery switchs by turning on and off a few times to dislodge any build up of corrosion on the contacts (a temporary fix)? Have you checked the cable terminations for security and signs of discolouration caused by corrosion or overheating?

I already pay for “free WiFi” that doesn’t work, and apparently am “entitled” to a parking space (according to an email sent out last year)

This mornings post all seemed the same, lots of leaflets and targeted mailings promising to improve things after years of neglect. Then I realised that “Aquavista” weren’t looking for my vote, but were in fact the new name for BWML Marinas! As a customer I look forward to WiFi that works, somewhere to park my car and a whole raft of other improvements.

The one mounted on the engine has metric threads, and I can’t see any reason to change it unless it’s broken. The one in the fuel line from the tank to engine will be whatever the boat builder installed of the day. It could be a Vetus branded item if supplied as part of the engine kit, but again why change it if it isn’t broke? A photo could be useful, especially a close up of the pipe fittings.

Yes, the colour code will probably be different, so take a photo/do a drawing first. There are usually only 4 wires on the base, the unused one is in the centre and numbered 87a regardless of relay type.

That was quick, I was having trouble pasting both images at the same time; so did that and then edited for the second one!!

These are the two pin configurations for the otherwise identical relays that fit the socket. You will need the correct one if you intend to reuse the socket as originally wired; you can however use either type if you use individual crimps (without the socket) to connect to the appropriate terminal number. The second method will need a few cable ties to hold everything in place.

If the first statement is correct there is no tube stack, making the suggested action in the second statement pointless. Use something soft such as a coffee stirrer or drinking straw to probe beneath the filler. If it goes to the bottom and can be moved side to side (as per the orientation of the photos) there is no tube stack. If it only goes in a short way there is probably a tube stack; moving the probe side to side will be a bit like the the cardboard that kids sometimes put into the spokes of their bikes.

The £17 “deal” appears under their “existing customer offers”, but clearly local staff have wriggle room to offer this to anyone and everyone. Still not a bad deal, and currently on the short list to replace my Sky landline broadband!

A triple coil in the new calorifier, and one of those immersion boss adaptors in the existing calorifier. Feed the “solar” heat to the coil of the calorifier nearest the tap first. Add a valve to choose between this calorifier coil or both in series as per the “webasto” circuit. You could link the two valve handles to give a single action changeover for bath day, although experience may favour individual control.

So plumb the “engine” coils in series, with the flow going to the calorifier nearest the tap first. No need for a valve on this circuit as any excess “free” heat will automatically go to the second calorifier. You just need a single valve in the “webasto” coil plumbing to change between single calorifier nearest the tap and both in series on bath day. A single valve to achieve your stated aim. Pumped recirculation is fine in large installations like hotels where you need hot water fairly quickly at all taps, but seems a little complex for what you want?

Try this: remove the pump and related pipework. Take the returns from each coil in the lefthand calorifier to the inlets of the coils on the righthand calorifier. Use two 3 port valves to change from lefthand only to both. Link the valve handles (or use a duplex valve) to change from grubby day to bath day. edit to add the theory. The left hand calorifier will heat up until its contents are at the same temperature as the hottest coil. At this point the temperature drop across the coils of the left hand calorifiers is effectively zero; meaning that the available heat transfers to the second calorifier automaticaly once you select “both”. On grubby days the righthand calorifier is nothing more than a fat cold water feed pipe for the lefthand calorifier. Buy a triple coil calorifier and plumb it in as the lefthand calorifier, and replumb the existing calorifier as the righthand one. disclaimer: typed under the influence of “Birra Maretti”

Just like most bottled water then.

I wonder how the figures stack up for a diesel generator driving a heat pump Vs a diesel engined combined heat and power unit?

Its all about the box, or lack of it. All of the components for my “out of the box” solution are available delivered in or on a pallet, stillage, package, carton, blister pack, wrapping paper or bag. Box ticked ✔️

This “box” seems a bit difficult to get out of, although I have seen some damage to the packing tape ? How about a compact combined heat and power solution? Heat recovered from the coolant and exhaust gas, and surplus electrical power (not being used for battery charging )for an immersion element. No storage tank required if you configure it for indirect cooling. The canal water passing through the heat exchangers can be diverted though filters (and a UV lamp unit if you like) for the bath rather than being discharged over board. Choose filters that can be back flushed during your normal bunkering routine. Going back in my box now, its a bit bright out ?.

Anything with a Yanmar part number is likely to be the one fitted in the head. The higher temperature ones used in the side of the black block usually have numbers in a different format. Happy to be corrected, but is this the higher temperature thermostat used in the single (standard) stat setup?

You might wish to start a new thread on this subject as your figures indicate a setup at the extreme end of the "normal" range.

I'm not sure that parts lists for the earlier engines were ever online; there are significant differences between your TNE engine and the current TNV range. Just take the old thermostat and cover to your local car parts shop, they'll usually find a match. The old one may have a bleed hole (you can drill your own if the replacement is the same in all other respects) which needs to be at the top (12 o'clock position) when refitting. You may as well speak to Barrus to determine which thermostat they now recommend for your particular engine. Be sure to be seated when you ask about prices ?

The "black block" replaces the normal thermostat cover; so the lower temperature stat sits in the standard position in the head, accessed by removing the domed nuts either side of the filler cap. The higher temperature stat is under the cover on the side of the "black block"; behind the lifting bracket in the photo, where the hose to the skin tank connects. It sounds as though the higher temperature stat has failed, so slightly less to remove; side mounted stats may need a little grease to hold them in place whilst fitting the cover (although some may be held with a spring clip of some sort).

The model number and year aren't meant to be the same, it's just unfortunate that it looks that way. The 4TNE84-BME engine of 1995cc was, according to the handouts received during my course, used on the models 2000, 2001 and 2003. The model 2002 has hand written noted added during the course that suggest that latter ones used the larger 4TNE88-BME. The seven digit number after the model number suggests, along with the age of the boat, that this is the larger engine. The fuel filter is often a CAV type fitted by the installer. The air filter as listed is a Yanmar pt No 119808-12520, but may again be an installation specific part. The oil filter is however a constant between the two engine types; its been superseded a few times over the years, so Yanmar pt No 129150-35151, 129150-35152 or 129150-35153 should find a suitable alternative. The current listing is an entirely different No which I believe was essentially part of a housekeeping exercise to remove multiple numbers from the same filter fitted to many other engine types.