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Eeyore

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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. The Delta box has a fine spline on the input shaft, inspect carefully before refitting. Hopefully yours will be ok, but they do have a reputation for wear.
  2. I suspect that the initial problem lies with the phrase “charged and ready to fit” which often crops up in an automotive context. The two new batteries would have undoubtedly benefited from a full charge before fitting. Whether they have been fitted correctly is a different matter of course.
  3. But your batteries would charge with the engine running anyway. Or have I missed something?
  4. Interesting, I remember the "clunk" as a healthy sign. The cone clutches have to displace the oil before they can fully engage. A more viscous oil takes longer to displace slowing down engagement which can lead to excessive slip, heating and wear. About a hundred years ago Rolls Royce injected caster oil into the cone clutches used on their vehicles to force a slip and reduce the "clunk". (a hundred years ago when father was just a twinkle in grandfathers eye)
  5. Not necessarily, it's marked as ISO10088 compliant; but probably only if the metal heat shield is fitted (the bowl shaped piece of metal in the OPs picture).
  6. Yes, all the materials to do the job for less than the price of a Vetus filter; and that includes the possibility of having to buy the metric threaded head as well. Looks like the job will pay for its self in a fairly short time.
  7. It's quite common for engines to come to rest in the same position when they stop. This means that the starter tends to engage on the same part of the ring gear every time you start the engine. Over time the normal wear and tear is localised and can eventually lead to damage on the leading edge of the pinion and the starter facing side of the ring gear. Failure to engage will be infrequent at first, but the damage then tends to accelerate, leading to a total failure to engage. Turning the engine a few degrees by hand presents an undamaged section of ring gear to the (now newer) starter pinion.
  8. And cheaper from https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/cav-agglomerator-5836b900-ea-125 well there's a surprise ?
  9. M14 threaded head. https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/single-filter-head-type-p-701.html
  10. https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/drive-force-cav-fuel-filter-water-separator-45-lph-alloy-bowl-302006 You will need to change the fittings on the fuel hoses to suit the 1/2" UNF threads. They may be available elsewhere with M14 threads, which will be an easier install if the existing unit has M14.
  11. The Vetus manual https://www.vetus.com/media/magentominds/sasdocument/20190604114543_0.pdf recommends to change the filter annually or every 200 engine hours; which should help in deciding whether it's economical to retain it or fit a cheaper to service alternative. Note that the manual shows the connection ports as M16x1.5 thread, whilst the specification on the web page shows some variants as M14x1.5. Not easy to tell which it is from the OPs original photo.
  12. Best pictures I could find online, that's a very large diameter thread. Looks like the bowl is integral to the filter.
  13. https://www.durite.co.uk/s/c/switches-and-indicators/ignition-switches/5-position-switch-26mm-diameter-panel-hole or https://hc-cargo.co.uk/catalog/p/180044--ignition-switch This one will do the job, it has an extra terminal (58) that can be ignored in this application. (The extra terminal works with Vetus applications)
  14. A picture of your panel, front and back, would be useful. The job might be "interesting" if the wiring was altered to suit the current occupant of the hole in question.
  15. Engineering officer: How long will it take? Tiffy: About 2 hours. Engineering officer: You've got 10 minutes before we sink. Tiffy: Ok, I know a bodge that'll work, if I can get hold of a sanding block in the next 10 minutes. Beyond that I'll be sticking to established engineering methods; "v" belt drives have been around for about 100 years, so we must have been doing something right all this time.
  16. Are you a belt retailer looking to improve his sales figures?
  17. I have retained the original 50amp ND alternator on my Mitsubishi, very difficult to keep in line when adjusting the belt. Often see other engines where the front face of the boss on the engine worn to a taper; no hope of alignment once that happens. Thorneycroft and Barrus had the right idea and bolted a fabricated mount to the pto flanges.
  18. A thick steel washer under the head of the through bolt will also help stabilise things. The legs on the alternator are thick enough in their normal use, but a bit on the thin size for this type of arrangement, hence the note on leaving the through bolt fairly tight during belt adjustment. You don't want to be trying to pull the alternator back into line using the through bolt after tensioning the belt.
  19. Have a look at this extract from the Vetus parts manual for their Mitsubishi engine range. The front leg of the alternator is clamped directly to the front of the mounting lug on the engine by the action of the sliding bush in the rear leg acting on the spacer (3). The front leg is clamped to the engine, and the rear leg is supported by the sliding bush. The bush is roughly the shape and size of a cotton reel, and needs to be long enough to prevent the sliding bush from falling out of the rear mounting leg when the bolt is tightened. The alignment must be adjusted after the alternator is in position, adding or removing washers from behind the pulley. When tensioning the belt you need to leave the through (2) bolt just loose enough to move (with some effort) the alternator, minimising the chances of the alternator twisting on the mounting.
  20. I'm curious, did you source an A127 with the same single bolt (pivot) mounting; or is this an improvised mounting using the far more common two bolt mounting A127? The question is of course to do with the belt and pulley alignment. A second, less common issue can caused by running a very tight belt on the usual two piece pressed metal pulley. The pulley can flex and widen whilst running and cause accelerated wear. One piece machined pulleys are available.
  21. I refer you back to my previous post regarding the pump impeller, which if stationary doesn't allow water to flow through it, unless it's very worn or missing a vane or two. By all means close the valve, but please, please put a notice next to the ignition switch!!! Missing vanes usually find there way into the end of the gearbox heat exchanger before the smaller parts migrate into the main heat exchanger within the exhaust manifold, so you'll need to remove a few pipes to check for bits.
  22. Possibly related to your previous post about overheating, so maybe a head gasket. Did it hydraulic to a stop whilst running, very bad; or did it simply refuse to turn over when you came to start it? The brass pump that you removed for access to the belts has a rubber impeller inside. The rubber impeller is a consumable item, and as such should be renewed annually, this is the manufacturers recommendation. You didn't come back to the forum to update on the overheating issue, were you able to restore the raw water supply?
  23. And an apology to whoever fitted it, the wiring isn't elegant, but at least it addresses the bodge committed by the manufacturer.
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