NB Watersnail

I did quite a bit of needle gun prep on our boat during the lengthening. Removing scale from the base plate on the inside was one task I wouldn't relish again, but having tried angle grinders, hammers, scrapers etc, the needle gun was definitely quickest. It was a huge industrial affair I borrowed. Hearing protection and thick gloves were a must, but it certainly shifted rust and scale very quickly, even on quite large sections of flat plate.

Update. I've fitted a 5ltr accumulator today. Using the many guides on here for setting up accumulators, I've found the cut in and out pressures for my pump and it's not what I expected. Cut in is at 18psi and cut out is at 20psi. This really doesn't seem right for a pump marked as 30psi cut out. It would explain the pulsing as well! The accumulator has enabled and even flow to the morco at lower flow rates, but I'm still getting a couple of seconds of 'pump cycling' when it reaches pressure and cuts out. So somewhere something isn't right and my money is on the pump. I've emailed Whale Support and await a response from them.

I've just replaced the domestic water pump on WATERSNAIL. We had a Shureflo pump that was 30GPM and had a cut out pressure of 30PSI. This had behaved perfectly without an accumulator and always seemed to manage to get the flow right for our Morco D51b water heater, even on the hottest setting. However it had started leaking and the cost of parts made it silly to repair. Having had Whale pumps on other boats/campers that never gave a problem, I decided to repalce the Shurflo with a Whale, being careful to match the PSI and flow rates to ensure the Morco was happy. I've ended up with the same lelvel of flow on cold, with no pulsing. But the moment you turn hot water on, the pump is constantly switching on and off, probably every second and giving a very pulsed flow of water. This often doesn't even get the Morco to ignite the main jets, unless the flow tap on the Morco is turned right down. Even when it does ignite, the pump is still pulsing. I'm fairly certain I understand why this is happening. By turning the flow tap on the Morco, it is reducing the flow into the Morco coil, slowing the water and allowing it to get hotter. But this reduced flow rate is causing the water in the pipes immediately after the pump to reach 30PSI and cuts the pump out. As this water is constantly flowing into the Morco, albeit at a reduced flow, the pump kicks back in almost immediately. Repeat this sequence every second and the result is very slow pulsed water flow from the hot taps. Turning another cold tap on in the boat elsewhere, allows a little more water to flow and the pump stops pulsing, proving my theory above. The problem is, the Whale pump has no adjustment on the pressure switch. So, do I: fit an accumulator tank and face the pump still going on and off, but at a much reduced rate? change the pump for a 20PSI model and hope this works? fit an external pressure switch? any other options?

I'd spotted the pics of REGINALD on the Brinklow FB feed and hadn't realised it was your boat. I'm sure know they will do a grand job on it - just as they do on all boats. We couldn't fault the attention to detail given to WATERSNAIL whilst she was there. Can't offer any advice on the prop, other than to ask if Steve or Simon have given their opinion yet?

Still trading, but up for sale as far as I am aware. http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-38718256.html

Another though about hard starting, if checking the oil doesn't fix it. I learnt the hard way that water and petrol don't mix. Water will sit below the petrol in a tank and caused me very similar problems with starting a motorbike when the filler cap leaked and let water into the tank. I'd suggest draining and thoroughly drying the tank and carb bowl. Hopefully then it will start as it used to.

The couple who now run Dusty, the coal boat on the South Oxford, are based at Osney Marina I think. I don't know if the boat is based there, but it might be worth a look. Failing that I wish you luck. I can't think of anywhere near central oxford that will supply coal near the canal.

Or pop up the arm to Oxon Boat Painting at Brinklow Boat Services. Very good dock, very good service, not the cheapest but I'm a firm believer that there are no corners to be cut when painting so a good job doesn't come cheap without a reason!

We used to have a straight flue on our puffin when it was at the back of the boat. On reinstalling it halfway down we discovered the roof curvature is greater which now requires a small angle at each end. We had the flue cut and welded so that the welds are almost hidden by the sealant where it enters the stove and collar. That means it still looks like a straight flue, which is more pleasing to my eye.

Peter Borshik could be your man. He des work in Newbury I think.

Here you go! http://www.stagecoachbus.com/fairport-convention.aspx?accept=perm

We're already there. Have been for a week or more. I shall be out with the Morris on Saturday morning too.

Having taken a flight cased B3 and Leslie on the road, I know how hard they are to shift. I'd love to see pictures of yours on the boat Bob! Having taken a flight cased B3 and Leslie on the road, I know how hard they are to shift. I'd love to see pictures of yours on the boat Bob!

No problem Paul, I guessed there was some confusion!

It's been a little quiet for a while because we've been very busy on the boat. Sadly not too many photos taken during the last month or two. I'll share a few below and try my best to take some more over the next few weeks. The stove base went in before we left Brinklow to head home. It' s made from off cuts left over from the floor. We're lucky to have a friend who fabricates exhaust systems from Stainless tube, so after taking a length to the boat to mark up, this appeared a few days later. We didn't actually manage to fit the stove before setting off for home, so an enforced early stop on the first night was in order to fit and seal the stove, before it got dark or cold! Here's a pic of the dry run, before sealant and tiles. Thejourney home was quiet smooth. The weather was with us and early March felt like Summer. Only a slight oil leak caused any panic, but it was just the pressure sender needing to be tightened up. After 4 very easy days cruising we arrived back on our mooring in Banbury. Our mooring always used to be too big for the boat and the Wharf had agreed to extend our current space to 57'. We did have to trim the bush at the end a little, just to stop it scratching the paint. With the aid of a shoe horn and ratchet strap we squeezed back in! The next few weeks were dedicated to getting linings up. Often only roughly cut and fixed in place so that they could come back down and be properly cut or have wiring fitted behind them. This started out quite enjoyable, seeing the boat quickly transformed from a snowy white shell into a wood grained box, but it soon started to drag. The largest width of board we could get into the boat was 38", so every 8' x 4' sheet of ply had to be cut down off site, then carried in. Eventually we had most of the linings up. Next job was 12v wiring. All the ceiling boards came back down, were drilled and had cables attached to the backs, then refitted. Tails for switches were run down the back of the cabin linings to the wall switch positions. Cabling will be run under the gunwhales on both sides, leaving it readily accessible for the future. We spent a few weeks fitting internal bulkheads, moving them a bit, measuring again, scratching our heads and finally fixing them in place. Constructing carcassess of seats, showers, cupboards, etc as we went. The last week has seen the start of the decorating! Yesterday I started work on our bed. Based on a pine bed frame from a second hand furniture shop, it's slowly been raised to create more storage and will evntually be a 4 poster with pelmet. The theme for a lot of a furniture will be on reuse of old things. I've been collecting assorted doors and bits of furniture for a few years now, with the intention of using them in the boat. You've probably spotted by now, we've taken the painted route over veneered ply. Neither of us wanted to live in a wood grain box and I didn't fancy trying to line the boat in ply without damaging the veneer. So we've gone for painted ply on the cabin sides. This will be framed with 3" x 1/2" oak framing to match much of the furniture. Below the gunwhales is mostly vertical tounge and groove in pastel colours. Except the bathroom and kitchen which will be tiled. We've also got most of the kitchen carcases in place now and just await the gas to be fitted before moving on with that end. Last night was a big step forward with the electrics, we now have all of the circuits and 2 way switching working, a temporary 12v distrbution board and well over half the ceiling fittings up. Finally we can put away the flood light and work at night without shadows everywhere! Finally, for today, I thought i'd share with you an internal plan:

We've used Ronseal Black Floor Paint on our Top Plank and Gunwales (that's what i've always refererred to them as). It's only been on there since January, but it went on a treat, looks smarter than bitumen and slightly glossier than blackboard paint. It's incredibly slip resistant in the wet. The reason we went with it is that i've used it for several years to paint stages at work. These see a lot of foot traffic, get left outside in the summer and generally abused. It's been great for this purpose, so why not for a similar demand on the boat. With the added bonus I always have at least half a can kicking around at work for touch ups! So far im very happy.

Oxon Boat Paint Co at Brinklow come highly recommended from me. They have a fantastic heated dock, with temperature and humidity monitoring. Chirs has just completed a full repaint on our boat and the amount of comments we received on the way home are testimony to how good it looks. http://www.oxonboatpainting.co.uk/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/370484829722801/?fref=ts or http://spankbluesband.co.uk/history/ or http://insideoutrock.com/

Have you tried Fraudio? Local to Rugby and come recommended by this boater. http://www.fraudiomusic.com/

I almost think I could get away with doing something like this in the lounge. It's actually our workshop, the sofa is an old one from my office that needs to go to the tip/charity shop. I just havent had the time to do it yet adn it's been suprisingly useful in the workshop!

Right, a few minutes spare this afternoon to try and bring this up to date. Here's how the engine looked when we got it out of the boat. 30+ years of grot and grime! Not a pretty sight! It's been loosing more oil every year, starting was getting quite tricky without the dreaded easy start, lots of black smoke and the wiring was about as understandable as a latin classic would be to your average chav. I suspected liners/pistons, head or valves causing low compression and oil to be burnt. It also seems every point that could leak oil or fuel, was leaking oil or fuel! So we started to strip it down. Pistons out, you can see the scoring on the big ends and after the carbon was cleaned off the rings and pistons, lot's of wear visible. The liners were also shot, such a lip at the top you could feel it through a rubber glove! So they came out too. The Bukh is a wet liner engine, so there is a water jacket around the liners and they are very easy to remove. Crank still in place you simply drift them out from below. Here's the block from above. We decided to leave the crank in as it's a lot more work to get it out and there had been no indication of problems there. Parts are also incredibly expensive for Bukh engine, so the less we 'have' to do, the better. The head was in very good nick, I think it has been worked on before, so that just had a good clean, valves re ground and put to one side. Parts were ordered, at a n extortionate cost from Bukh in Poole, who were as helpful as everybody says they are. Despite the cost, i'm more than happy to rebuild this engine as their reputation is rock solid. If it's taken 30 years to deteriorate this much, bring on the next 30! Charlie set to work on cleaning and painting. Most of the paint ewas so well soaked in diesle and oil that it almost fell off! Painting began. High Temp enamel is great, but getting good coverage with the red took many coats! The new parts arrived: Pistons Rings Gudgeon Pins Big End Shells Filters and Gaskets New liners were pressed in. The gudgeon pins were frozen. The pistons were heated The meal was complete! New pistons back in. Head on. Almost back together now, just starter and alternator to go. While the engine was being rebuilt we still spent a few days at the boat. All the floor bearers went in. Followed by 18mm ply. Since this photo it's all been taken up again and cut so that any section between any bearer will be accesible once all the fittings are in. We'll be able to adjust ballast as the fit out continues with easy. Something we couldn't do before! It's all been painted on both sides and all the edges with floor paint too. I've not got many photos of the next few stages. Lots of little things have been done. The water tank has been filled and plumbed to give us some more ballast for the journey home. A hearth for the stove has been built and tiled. We had a friend tig weld a beautiful Stainless flue for us. The stove has been cleaned and blacked. This should all go back together tomorrow morning so we have heat for the cruise home. The engine went in last Thursday. 4 days on and it's had all new coolant hoses fitted. A new wiring loom made. Some new diesel pipes fitted. A starter solenoid revived from dead. Yesterday was the big day to get it started. Afeter a lot of bleeding, cranking, bleeding, cranking, bleeding, cranking, flat battery.......bleeding, cranking - we got all of the air out and life has been returned to the little Bukh! We are planning to set off from Brinklow tommorow to return to our home mooring in Banbury. So, if you're on the Oxford canal between Brinklow and Banbury, look out for us over the next few days!