grahame r

Do Lec make a 12v fridge? If not you may have to look for a dedicated inverter directly wired to your battery bank. Hopefully this will will have an on/off switch allowing to turn the fridge off if leaving the boat.

You'll be drummed out of the Magic Circle for divulging this information.

I believe you now have to give 24 hours notice if you want to access/leave the docks via Llanthony Bridge.

Is that really the case? As Nicknorman mentions it would need some sort of data link with the inverter/charger. I've always assumed my BMV602 was simply a monitor, measuring parameters and inferring SOC. I've recently discovered that when the backlight is on, the voltage drops by 0.03v, I find it difficult to believe that the power consumed by the backlight could have this effect. This is not a coincidence, it is totally repeatable and turning the backlight intensity up make the voltage drop more pronounced. Anyone else get this effect or have I got a duff monitor?

Difficult to believe that 50+ litres have been expelled through the PRV. You say the cold tank was well under half full and now virtually empty, perhaps not that different? probably the only damage done is to your wallet, check your electricity meter!

Presumably ypu are getting a very good deal on the shell? say £10,000 would be a bargain. If you had come on this forum with the question "I have £35,000.00 to spend and want to live on a widebeam, what should I do?" Every sensible answer would be to look at the bottom end of the second hand market, expect a boat about 20 years old (when widebeams started to gain popularity) and expect to have to do a lot of remedial work. You shouldn't be paying more than £20,000.00 for the engineless shell so if your question had been "I have £45,000.00 to spend and want to live on a widebeam , what should I do?" The answer would be similar but perhaps 10-15 years old but again a basic boat with work to do. There are undoubtedly bargains out there especially in the second hand market where maintenance and pride of ownership can make all the difference between a good basic useable boat and pile of scrap metal but buying one of the former and working your way up over the years as your knowledge of what you want and what is available grows is, in my opinion, the way to go.

The proximity of the moored and moving boat is also an important factor so always giving moored boats as wide a berth as possible will also reduce harsh words in our peaceful envireonment.

May I respectfully ask you to revisit your decision on Composting toilets? It seems to me that disregarding a system which may potentially save you money, time and effort because you have had a fall out with a retailer may not be thouroughly thought through.

It was indeed, I mentioned this in my PM to the OP but as he's new to the forum he probably doesn't know of your reputation. I didn't mention the super-hyper-composting loop you cleverly inserted into the output so the giant vegetables with their triffid-like properties which will shortly be emerging from the Cheshire sewers will come as quite a surprise!

I know but when I tried to reply to his message it bounced. I was in a hurry so may have done something silly. Looking at it now I see that I sent the email to somewhere called No Reply. I'm not very techy!

Hi John, Got your PM but can't reply I think it's because you need to have made a few posts before this is allowed. Please send me your email address by PM and I'll reply directly. Grahame

I've got a 12v unit which is surplus to requirements. PM me if it's of interest. Grahame

Anodes are sacrificial, ie the ones that are "shot" are actually working, the ones that are "OK" are not working. This may be because there is little corrosion around around the OK ones or there may be another reason. Worth investigating, and it's normal to replace them whilst blacking otherwise it will cost more to dry dock the boat than to supply and fit new ones.

I don't think it a good idea to have petrol in your engine room whatever exhaust you have. The Honda is definitely the front runner but if cost is a factor then the Kipor is about half the price. It's noisier but not horrendous, I had one for about 4 years and it was totally reliable. Electric start, but if you want auto-start then it won't work as there's a manual choke.

I'd be very hesitant about cutting a tyre with an angle grinder, a hack saw would be slower but both arms and your head should still be attached afterwards.

Greenie to Kevinl

Best mooring option would be to moor alongside a moored boat. Most people don't mind. I'd go for chain, you can fix a chain with a padlocks so it can't be removed from a bollard or ring or the boat, most caster offerers are drunk opportunists they don't carry battery angle grinders!

PM me with what you want to know and I'll give you all the info you need.

This is well over 200 miles, there are hundreds of suitable places. This one could run and run!

As a vintage man I'm quite partial to vintage ladies, nude or clothed.

I've always assumed that they are private facilities for the moorers there. Dundas is just up the road.

It's very short notice to find any dry dock in August/September near London. If it's indoors they probably won't let you stay on her overnight. You could try Fred who runs the dry dock at St Pancras Cruising Club but you'll be hoping for a cancellation. There's also one at Enfield you could try.

I bought some clear acrylic plastic thingamabobbies that hold boat poles/plank/ladder with a magnetised bottom three or 4 years ago. They were rubbish, the magnets rusted and stained my lovely bright white non slip roof, then they fell out. I've still got the remains in a locker in the well deck, a reminder of money poorly spent! Get a proper brass thingama..... and either chain your pole etc to it or just move them on the other side of the boat for the night if you're in a dangerous area.

Write to the owner telling him of your worries, if the proverbial hits the fan the balls in his court. If he cancels now he's still liable for cancellation fees etc.