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springy

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Everything posted by springy

  1. Is it Direct reversing - i.e. fuel pump timing is identical in forward or reverse (as per Bolinder) or Reversible - i.e. fuel pump timing is changed depending on rotation (as per for example a rather large 3 cyl petter 2 stroke I have seen) ? what breed & vintage is it anyway ? springy
  2. If you can arrange some "load" then OK but I would be very wary of "locking the output" even if you do ensure the engine can't start. I think the essence of this is that the CONE is stuck, and unfortunately a cone will tend to pull itself together under load - this is why a cone is used but also why they have a tendency to stick. What might work is this - lock the output shaft (in Both directions), insert bolt B to overcome the spring pack and then rock the engine back & forth somehow at the same time as (if possible) trying to encourage the cone to disengage. Partly an aside but relevant to all this - when you start an engine with an LH150 you will always briefly get forward drive untill the pump in the gearbox builds up enough pressure to disengage the drive. springy
  3. I think the end float is less of a problem, and may actually be necessary - to "engage" neutral requires item E to move backwards away from item D although E should just slide on the splines. As Tim said when you refit the reduction gears (or fitted an output housing for a 1:1) this may well eliminate the end float. springy
  4. Hi Paul This threads grown a bit since last night - its just taken me half an hour to catch up! I've also gone back to your video & come up with another question. First am I correct in thinking that the video was made with "Bolt B replacing Bolt A" to overcome the pressure of the spring pack i.e. hold the box in neutral ? If so then the slight rotation play could indicate one of two things - which one is not clear in the video, but you may be able to see the difference in situ. When you rotate the shaft :- Either item E moves a small amount but item D does not - if so the friction material has probably broken up and is jamming, Or items E and D are still locked together and the movement is the backlash in the splines/geartrain. you may be able to tell the difference if you look carefully but in the video the reverse brake band effectively obscures the two. If the friction material has broken up then you have no option but to strip the box, if the E and D are still stuck together then I would be tempted to see if a point of leverage could be found to use a large screwdriver and try carefully to persuade item E to move backwards away from item D, with the bolt still in position to overcome the spring pack of course. Because the forward band is a Cone section they are more prone to just sticking. springy
  5. IIRC forward band is attached to item E, reverse band is attached to the thin steel band which surrounds the whole assembly. Is the selector arm still attached to the morse control (if applicable) and does that give the appropriate mapping ie forward/reverse. Actually, pushing the selector arm forwards to engage forward and pulling it back to engage reverse does make sense. springy
  6. Not 100% sure but it does ring a vague bell that there is a slight difference - on the gearbox ignoring reduction, ahead is direct drive - for efficiency, reverse goes via epicyclic and is IIRC a slight reduction. springy
  7. Hi Paul In the following image the forward friction band is the double hatched item between D and E, on your second photo it appears to be sticking out a bit at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. The Reverse friction band is the double hatched item on the outside of item D. In forward gear D is locked to E (held in place by the spring pack), in neutral the spring pack is overcome by the hydraulic piston J, and for reverse the outer brake band is applied thus locking D to the body of the gearbox and the drive passes through an epicyclic gear train to provide reverse rotation (not very clearly shown on the left of this image). If D and E stick together or the friction material breaks up and jams them then you would get the situation described - always in forwards & locks up when reverse is selected. springy
  8. Curious The fact that it stalls means that it is trying to engage both gears at once. The fact that this happens when you operate the gearchange means that the the pump & associated valves pistons etc must be operating (to some extent at least) Implies that the forward friction band is stuck in the engaged position or broken up and jaming in the engaged position. springy
  9. Having watched the video I would say no it shouldnt be doing that. I'm wondering about your description "you get forward in neutral or reverse and stall in forward - doesn't make sense. If you got forward in forward and neutral, and stall in reverse - makes perfect sense - forward friction band stuck in - hence you always get forward, but when you apply the reverse friction band you try and get forward and reverse at the same time - hence stall. Does the reduction gear reverse the rotation ? At least it does mean that the hydraulic pump is working because it succesfully activates the friction band. Cant remember if this has already been mentioned but these gearboxes are held in forward by a spring pack, hydraulic pressure is used 1) to disengage forwards (ie engage neutral) and then 2) engage reverse. Consequently sticking in forwards is always a potential problem - particularly if the box has been submerged. On the other hand if the hydraulics fail for any reason you STILL have fowards gear - will get you home (even if you have to use the harbour wall for brakes). edited to add - looking at the photos - is the "forward" friction band breaking up (ie the inner one) - it looks somehow uneven. springy
  10. suck-squeeze-bang-blow IS imperial, if it was metric it would be sucez, serrez, claquez, le coup or possibly lutschen Sie, quetschen Sie, knallen Sie, Schlag springy
  11. I can only presume that your "expansion tank" is functionally the same as an accumulator i.e. a vessel with a rubber bladder dividing it into two compartments - water one side and air on the other - in which case AIUI provided the air side is pressurised before you turn the pump on then it will not need bleeding - when the water side is un pressurised the bladder will be forced into the "water end" of the vessel. There are several threads on here explaining the correct way to set the pressure. (cant find it just at the moment) springy
  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. Also see this thread Previous thread springy
  14. One other thought - if it is the gearbox oil cooler to blame then when you disconnect the pipes from the cooler you may find that water leaks from from the heat exchanger through the fittings that these pipes came from. springy
  15. Edited cos I've just read the other thread and realised that you're not thinking of using it on a boat. springy
  16. When you say it has "never worked" - how long for ? It could need re-gassing, I seem to remember something about the refrigerant also lubricating the compressor so perhaps that could explain the behaviour ? I'm not sure about this & it may depend on the refridgerant type used (which will depend on the age of the fridge) - I believe it is true for air con systems on cars. springy
  17. springy

    Bushes

    I'm pretty sure that Radio-Ga-Ga is right, PP waste fittings just aren't BSP. Though given your measurements you could try an 1 1/4" -> 2" bush, or even take the fitting with you & try different bushes till you find one of a suitable size - If the thread form is near enough then the plastic will give a bit ! springy
  18. I also have an Alde stamped mushroom on my paloma which I fiited because there wasn't an approved paloma one. It has never been questioned, or even closely examined IIRC, it has always passed BSS including smoke tests on the last two. springy
  19. Only if you pull too hard. Many things get messy if you pull too hard ! springy
  20. Bit of rope, wrap two or three turns round the filter (like a pull start cord before everything had recoil starters) & then pull. Worked fine on a lister LPWS where the mounting bed effectively prevented me getting anything else anywhere near. I do have a "propper" strap type which fits a standard 1/2" drive ratchet but couldn't get it in. springy
  21. In that case I guess the first job is out with the angle grinder & cut an access hatch ! Make it as big as you reasonably can - it will make climbing in and painting that bit easier. You can either cut carefully & re use the piece you have cut out as the hatch cover, but you will need to add supports (flat or angle iron) to the underside - probably by welding, this has the advantage of leaving the upper surface of the deck reasonably flat. Alternatively you can simply obtain a larger piece of steel which overlaps all around the hole and use this as the hatch cover, this does result in a slight step in the deck surface (but overall is an easier method). In either case you can secure the cover using countersunk screws either tapped directly into the steel of the deck, or (better) using rivnuts, and a bead of suitable sealant. It is tempting to cut almost all of the deck out - leaving approx 2" all around the outside, and have a new deck plate to overlap the 2" stub - this may be ideal BUT beware it may be impossible to get the new deck plate into position depending on the angle of the hull sides & width of the gunnel top. (and pretty heavy & difficult to remove again) springy
  22. Hi As far as emptying the tank goes, assuming you have an access cover, when I needed to do mine I just temporarily rigged up my spare bilge pump (clean and unused at that time) & chucked it in the tank to pump the water over the side - saves running the domestic pump for hours & probably does a much quicker job. repainting the inside of the tank is just one of those evil jobs which has to be done. springy
  23. First (if you havent already done so) get a piece of rope through the hole I hope you have in the top of the rudder blade & tie loosely to your stern dollies - that way if it comes out of the cup at least you wont loose it completely. To answer your question, Yes it will be a "standard size" but it wil probably depend on the builders inclination - I would guess at least M8, probably M10 or M12 assuming it was built in the last 15-20 years. You can use thin steel e.g. opened out food can cut with scissors to "shim" the top & take the play out. edited to add - the spanner size needed to fit the bolt head will (usually) indicate the bolt diameter - assuming it is metric then M8 needs a 13mm spanner, M10 possibly 16mm or usually 17mm, M12 possibly 18mm usually 19mm. You will also need to know the length, best done by taking it out and measuring ! Also the scissors wont cut hair properly afterwards ! springy
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