springy

Swallow, Buckden & Sagitta all left Brewood on Monday heading that way. springy

My boat has a 1.8 bmc which is a smaller bolt than the 2.2 - thats why I had to borrow a socket to replace the crank seal on a 2.2, dont know if the 1.8 is the same size as the 1.5. springy

IIRC i measured one about 6months ago as 42.5 mm - the nearest sizes are 1"W = 1-1/8" BS which is 42.42 mm or 1 -11/16" AF which is 42.86mm - I managed to borrow a 1-11/16" AF socket which did the job, however as richard sugested turning the flywheel with a lever in the ring gear is hard work but if you can turn it then it isnt seized solid so I would go along with the idea of sorting the starter and see where you go from there springy

All "Propane" bottles from all suppliers use the same fitting - a left hand POL fitting (also used for acetylene), "Patio Gas" (AIUI) is just propane in a bottle with a "company specific" quickfit coupling, most Butane bottles have company specific quickfit couplings. From calor's site - 3.9Kg - £15.49 = 397 p/Kg 6 Kg - £ 19.99 = 333 p/Kg 13 Kg - £25.49 = 196 p/Kg Quite a difference to my mind. This page shows the exchange options calor exchange groups It seems that anything is freely exchangable for anything, except 6Kg bottles which can only be swapped for 6Kg bottles !

Depends on the size of the fittings on the coil - they are probably either 1" BSP male - in which case you could use http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50777/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Flowflex-Female-Coupler-22mm-x-1 or http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96133/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Flowflex-Female-Coupler-28mm-x-1 with a 28-22 reducing bush Or they may be 3/4" BSP male in which case you could use http://www.screwfix.com/prods/81402/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Flowflex-Female-Coupler-22mm-x elbows are also available and screwfix list several brands - prices vary & I can't comment on quality springy

If you hav'nt located BS3212 hose yet these people list them http://www.bes.co.uk/products/066.asp just a question of size / fittings springy

That would probably do it ! springy

I would try forward flushing the pump - connect a hosepipe from a tap to the pump inlet & water should flow through the pump valves - hopefully washing any grot off the valve seats. If you try to back flush the pump the water pressure will try to hold the valves onto the seats and any grot will be trapped. springy

I would suspect a non-return valve - probably in the pump itself - maybe a bit of grit/grot picked up when the water tank ran out ? You could try flushing the pump through with a hose. springy

A quick google gave the following pdf braukman instructions though there does seem to be several different models. It is supposed to allow any air bubles/pockets to automatically vent from the system, AIUI the red cap should be on tight, and the body set to the open position. Are the radiators hot all the way to the top - if not you may need to bleed air from them as well (assuming the auto vent has been closed). springy

It would also sound completely different !

My silencer is wrapped with 2 (or 3) layers cut to shape from an old unused fire blanket, held in place with galvanised wire (the kind you get left with when you strip back armoured cable IIRC) and it is pretty effective. It has never been questioned on BSC springy

Sounds very familiar ! My BMC 1.8 did the same thing a few years back - first the unexpected rev increase, then the stopping/refusing to start until it had been bled, gradually getting worse/more frequent. In my case I eventually traced it to a cracked lift pump housing - intermittently sucking air into the system (though not until I had checked everything else except the injector pump and injectors). Certainly sounds like air is getting in somewhere, probably on the "suction" side i.e. up to (and including) the lift pump. springy

Taking your second question first - Yes the positive and negative cables should be the same size. As far as the actual size goes - it depends on the load/charging current - you may have 350Ah plus of battery capacity but if you only ever draw 2 Amps then quite skinny cable will do, on the other hand if your charger is capable of putting 30-40 amps into the battery bank then much more substantial cable is required, and it is probably this side of the system which will determine your needs. springy

Ditto - I've tried a variety of ordinary "domestic" DAB radios and the Roberts has the best reception of all of them - I use it in the car as well as on the boat and it holds onto the signal much better than any other I've tried. I'm more of a Radio 7 listener. springy

The "S" is solid bar - probably better than tube for this purpose - which would have to be quite thick wall and would be difficult to bend so tightly without creasing. The band is a solid ring which I presume was chosen as being the correct size for the fount (or maybe a fount was found to fit the available brass ring) rather than being strip brazed up to a suitable size. It is a lot easier to clean than some of the fancy candle sconces. springy

I dont know if this is a "home made" bracket or not but it works ! springy

Single or Twin Alternator setup ? If Single then in the absence of any switching you would effectively connect the leisure bank to the starter battery through this cable (and the terminal stud on the back of the alternator) - resulting either in a flat starter battery having run the tv, lights, etc all night or some of the starter current being drawn through the charging cable from the leisure bank. With Twin alternators, one dedicated to each system, then there are good logical reasons for doing as you suggest - any switch, junction etc. is a potential problem spot - high resistance contacts etc., and this is indeed the practice commonly used in automotive single alternator + single battery bank setup. However BSS requires that battery banks can be isolated from their associated systems so AIUI you must have a switch somewhere in the system between the battery and any attached equipment. springy

I bought one a few years back from Evelyn Booth, Lockside antiques - clicky, at the time she had a choice of three, and yes the mounting brackets were converted piano sconces. Whilst an aladdin mantle lamp gives a much brighter and whiter light, I'm not sure how well the mantle would cope with life on a boat. springy

Alternatively, if the damage is not too severe, it is possible to straighten bent edges using two hammers, and therefore avoid having to remove the prop. springy

Did the same run - out yesterday, & back today - 5 hrs norton canes -> horsley fields jcn, 5 hrs 15 mins horseley fields jcn -> norton canes. Much much better than it used to be. No weedhatch use - some weedy bits but most could be thrown off with a quick burst of reverse. Water pretty much "on Level". springy

scumbled most likely springy

I think blackrose is correct in suggesting that the heater is not firing up because of lack of flow, and NBMike's debris suggestion is probably the cause. If the flow from the cold tap IS completely unaffected then the debris MUST be somewhere in the feed to the heater - probably in the valve in the heater itself - a bit of a pain depending on the particlar model/brand of heater. If however the cold flow is affected (even slightly) then the debris could be anywhere in the system - a neighbour of mine recently had a similar problem - cold flow seemed OK but the water heater (paloma) would only fire up on maximum setting, cleaned out pump and filter - no effect, checked accumulator - no effect, in the end we reversed the pump connections (feeding from a hose in a bucket) and forced water back up the feed pipe into the tank - success ! There must have been something in the pipe between the tank and the pump. Now the cold flow is noticably better and the paloma works perfectly. Might be worth a try if its not too difficult to arrange. springy