springy

Do you have an accumulator fitted ? If so check the pressure in the accumulator. springy

Just sold £555, would seem a shame to pinch the engine though. springy

Beeing unveiled today http://www.towpathtalk.co.uk/news/actor-to-unveil-refurbished-guillotine-lock- springy

1970s seems to ring a bell with me, initially different bw offices had their "own" batch which means that two consecutive numbers may have been issued (by different offices) years apart, also registrations for the first year included boats already on the system. springy

Looking at the spec I would interpret it as 22Kw under max flow and temperature differential. max flow is 4 cubic metres/hour - over a litre /second, rough calculations gave me a figure of about 18Kw for this flow and a temp difference of 75 degrees, if you drop the flow to half (which is still 30 litres per minute) and the temp difference to 60 degrees you are down to just over 7Kw. I dont know what pump you would be using but i would be suprised if a standard automotive type water pump would do any better than that. On the other hand if it provides useable "free" heat it can be cost effective. springy

Fresh fuel - supplied from a can into the inlet feed pipe somehow, bleed it through, check the oil and water arent too "horrible" and then give it a whirl. they are fairly bulletproof. springy

It just occurred to me to wonder if there is any other heat input into your radiator circuit ? - you dont mention one. Is there forced circulation around the radiator/calorifier circuit ? Yes the calorifier is heated by the engine, but ideally you arrange it so that the water stays hot for a few hours at least (say overnight) rather than passing all that heat on to the ch system, you could achieve something with thermostatically controlled valves (not I think with thermostatic radiator valves) but I get the impression you actually want the heat in the cabin ? springy

the engine "should" only heat the calorifier - if the cabin radiators are being heated by convection then your hot water wont last long. If you add anything to this circuit then you will have to bleed the circuit at any high points, and ideally the highest point should be lower than the top of the header tank - tricky to put a heater matrix on the roof ! <snip> Also, having snapped the bleed screw on the idle governor and replaced it with a std screw, I need to adjust the idle operation, what is the procedure? or is there anywhere that sells the right screw? <snip> Is this the right bleed screw http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/fittings-screw-pumps-c-9_123.html springy

yes but we can save that for later, first check for flow into the pump - with the stop cocks off, disconnect pump inlet, then slowly open the valve on the fitting which went on the inlet - this should be connected to the tank and water should flow so turn it off again quick ! - No flow - blocked tank outlet may be possible to clear by blowing back down the pipe - again be ready to turn the valve off quick. Good flow - pump problem - -- fitted backwards ? -- I dont know these pumps - is it possible to assemble the valves wrong so that you have two outlets ? re accumulator pressure - you will need to re presurise the accumulator though it can wait till you've got the pump working. There's a thread somewhere on here about what pressure it should be - i'll see if i can find it springy

Certainly does sound like a pressure relief valve - notorious for getting clag on the seat and then dribbling, which only leads to more clag on the seat ... If you turn the knob in the direction of the arrow - you will feel some resistance as you open the valve against a spring, it will then click and close again - this MAY clear the seat & re seal, if it doesnt work first time it may be worth another couple of tries - if it still refuses to seal then its b******d and you'll need a new one. best done with the pump turned off, though some flow through the PRV may help to flush it. springy

Turn the power off first then turn the taps at the sink on - this will relieve the stored pressure in the accumulator. Then you can close the pump isolators and disconnect. Some water will remain in the pipes - worth trying to catch in a shallow tray, but not a vast amount, springy

Ta for the correction Alan, is it just my faulty memory or is that something which has changed ? springy

I think you are mixing two separate schemes Boat Safety - must be done by a registered examiner for licencing (like an MOT) - every 4 years (or less if the exminer is unhappy to issue a 4 yr cert - for example on an incomplete boat) RCD - documentation from the boat builder/fitters required for "new" boats, IIRC if you self build you cannot sell for 5 yrs unless you also provide the documentation, though you can prepare this yourself. springy

that would mean you could include all the level branches - on the wolverhampton level you could add the bradley branch, dudley tunnel to parkhead, cannock extension and probably many other bits- when does a loading arm become a branch ? springy

If you're thinking of a "reasonable level route" then how about some on the wolverhampton level - rushall top to smethwick top via horseley fields - 31 miles, anglesey basin to smethwick top via horseley fields - 28 miles brades bottom to lapworth (no 2) is only 23 miles or about 18 to lapworth top (guilotine) brades bottom to tardebigge top - 21 miles Does it count as the same pound if its on different canals ? BCN - W&B You probably would not use the first suggestion under normal circumstances, however a tug with 4 or 5 joeys certainly would ! and a shorthanded pair probably would. springy

Green & yellow must just be easier to "get hold of" - I'll admit that my main battery cables are 50mm2 tri rated Green/Yellow (with red & black heat shrunk bands on each end and in the middle) but the cable was "available". Once heard of similar thing a friend found on a boat he was asked to look at - all the wires were red, the negatives had had a knot in each end making them "not red" ! springy

I think they were S&W, bradshaws shows Churchbridge Jcn, at the bottom of the flight as BCN junction with the hatherton branch (end on jcn) springy

Churchbridge (13) springy

Noooooooooo......... 11 page thread springy

Who wants to be cured of this madness ? springy

Could just need the reverse band adjusting properly - if you can adjust (externally ?) to get reverse but loose forward in the process then it suggests that the reverse band may be ok. either way the lid's got to come off springy

If its a lister hydraulic gearbox you wont be able to turn the shaft anyway. springy

Re the "master" key - i seem to recall seing padlocks sold under the "master" brand - it might just be branding. springy

Semi Diesel Beetle anyone ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=mCSMOXcTMYQ Maybe a little tail heavy ! I once saw an XJ6 with a 6cyl ford York diesel .... yuk springy