JoeC

Hello. I get a lot of condensation on the metal inner trims on my single glazed windows, as well as the windows themselves, and wondering if it be worth changing these to wood or plastic trims to try and stop condensation forming on the trims? Hopefully that would stop the condensation dripping down the wall underneath the windows and would hopefully just leave the condensation on the window to drip down the air hole at the bottom. I have put heated up plastic sheets over some of the windows to stop condensation on them, which works well, but the windows which I have not used it on , so that I have some ventilation, still get covered in condensation. Your thoughts would be most appreciated.

I'm no expert but a few people advised me against using household anti-freeze after I flushed my system and to use automotive anti-freeze. I used IAT in my Webasto system as that was what it said to use. Don't know what would happen, if anything, if you used OAT fluid.

Amazon Blink outdoor cameras. Runs off internal lithium battery which you replace about every two years. Every now and then they are cheap to buy so don't buy at full price. Amazon.co.uk : blink outdoor camera

'Boat Time' are a young couple who live on their boat full time and seem down to earth people. They have just done a 24 days of Christmas where they are did vlogs for 24 days - helps to give an insight in that living on a boat is not always glamourous, you have to do cleaning and washing etc. I like them. And if you like wildlife then take a look at A Shot Of Wildlife - he does quick short vlogs on wildlife that he comes across in the UK.

The Gulper should have a one-way rubber valve fitted to prevent the drain back up the plug hole from happening.

If he brings the Renfrew up to Harecastle Tunnel on the Trent & Mersey then he will have chocolate coloured water to go through!

but have you seen an elephant fly?

As pointed out 'do not put a pump in the engine bay' - this is the blocked off part under the engine itself intended to catch oil drips etc. What I meant, and should have made it clearer, was to have the bilge pump outside of that drip area.

It is not a standard setup. They are using the tub and bilge pump to remove the water drips from the stern gland - this saves the water going into the engine bay. However, there needs to be another pump in the bay.

My fresh water filler is fitted to the gunwale and not the floor. A previous owner drilled a hole in the filler cap and glued a small piece of mesh over the top to allow for air flow. As mentioned above, the overflow should give air flow but this cap hole may also come in handy.

With my single glazed hatches I put cut down water tank lagging over the top, a sheet of waterproof material over the top and then use magnets to hold it all in place. Come the summer I take it all off. This winter, my second on the boat, I have done the same but also used some stick on window film, which you heat to stretch it, over the hatch surround inside to give a bit of extra warmth - it also helped to stop the smaller bits of condensation that I got last winter.

Last year I used Oxbow Newheat and liked it but where I am this year (I am a CC'er) they do not sell this type - mainly Excel. It burns OK but I think gives a lot of ash. Which coal is best for your boat? There are too any variables from one boat to another so I would suggest buying different types and seeing which one you like most hoping that you can get a good supply of that one.

Can't comment on any specific dealers but you can use the Webasto website to search for them ... Webasto DealerLocator

Do diesel stoves need a cowl or something on the top of straight chimneys for wind/draught purposes?

Which Marine 16 product do you add?

To answer my own question (how tight should the two screws be on the clamp?) ... from the new Gulper which I purchased the answer is 'tight'.

I took it apart to give it a clean. There may have been a blockage in the 'exit' piping to the outlet on the hull as when I put my wet/dry vac on it to suck the pipe clean there was a small thud as something went into the vac - maybe a build up of hair. As for the Gulper ... the diaphragm did not sit very well so I'm guessing maybe the blockage caused a build up of pressure and the diaphragm let go and that is why it is leaking. However, I'm unable to get the nut off that holds the diaphragm on ... the bolt spindle is just going round and round along with the nut. I cleaned it the best I could, took valves off and cleaned them and when I reassembled I put some Vaseline around both sides of the diaphragm to help with the sealing. However, it is still leaking. I'm guessing that what with me being unable to get the diaphragm nut off that it means a new Gulper is required. Now ordered one from Marine Electricals for £114.76.

Hello. My Whale Gulper 220 is leaking water from the blue clamping ring. I have not removed nor taken it apart yet but my initial question is how tight should the two screws be on the clamp? I have tightened them a little but not all the way and it is still dripping. I don't know how old the Gulper is - I have owned the boat for 1.5 years and built in 2001 and I am presuming that all stuff is original fit. I think that the diaphragm is used to seal the two parts together with the help of the clamp, that there are service kits and my issue could be it just needs a clean. This is the first issue I have had with the Gulper so no need to have 'gone inside' so to speak. Thanks in advance. Joe

Like David Schweizer my bilge pump has a steel plate attached to the bottom of it.

And that was also a comment that the CRT person also said to me but about rubbish bins - they can take the rubbish home with them.

A CRT person told me that CRT are also getting rid of the dog poo bins.

Lock 9 works were planned winter works which they are doing now as the flight is closed. There is also winter works planned for locks 2 (lock head) and 14 (grouting).

An update from the chandlers via Facebook ... CLOSING SALE NOW ON! GRAB A BARGAIN! 25% OFF EVERYTHING IN THE SHOP* EXTRA 10 % DISCOUNT FOR CASH CASH ONLY PAYMENTS AFTER 14TH OCTOBER DUE TO CARD MACHINE BEING RETURNED * excludes diesel, gas, solid fuels and items stocked on behalf of the roving traders

I got Ed Shires to reduce the size of the alternator belt pulley on mine (Beta 43) so that I did not have to use as many revs when wanting to use the Travel Power. So I have a non-standard belt size (6PK913) but yes contact Ed to see what he says - he prefers phone calls/SMS rather than emails.

I flushed my system recently, took the radiators off and invert flushed them with hose and a tap to get rid of any crud in the bottom - only a little brown liquid came out with no rust or sludge. I used PTFE white tap when connection the radiators back up. As others have said, use pre-diluted car anti-freeze - my Webasto said to only use IAT mono ethylene antifreeze - which I diluted to about 40%. Poured it in via the expansion tank and then opened up the lowest bleed point to get it to flow to that point. Then bled each radiator until all air came out - keep an eye on the expansion tank and top up if it gets near the low mark otherwise you could be bringing air back into the system if the tank empties. Then switched on the Webasto to do the automatic final system bleed itself (the Webasto should bleed itself). All worked perfectly and I have run it a few times to make sure.