Marc Pyn

Its a boat move from last year we're reffering to so its been paid - whats your point?

Thanks for the responses folks. The centre line was frayed when he left, but I wasnt made aware that it was frayed or there was only one, and I could only check his requested itinerary with the yard as it was so far away and had COVID, hence needing the boat mover at the time. I didn't notice the 3 times we went down before but that was his reason for asking for us to cover. From these reaponses I think I'll get in touch as sounds like it should've been covered.

He was going in the lock, tied it up, set it, and line snapped from what I recall from phone call. would've been going down as caught on cill. Something that should/ could be covered on his insurance if claimed for now to reimburse?

That would make sense to me from what i can see. Does that look accurate to you @PaulJ

Ah i forgot the side still picture with the video (attached) - the swan neck boss isn't resting on the top bearing so thats sounds a good sign Nice one Paul J / Magnetman - that makes sense if it's the issue, as there is no noticeable difference in the smoothness of the arm from left to right either, which i try and show at the start of the video, & weld looks split away from the tube, so ill ask the engineer tomorrow if they can repair the weld. Thanks again to everyone for their input & have made useful notes for future reference

It was a shock to get the initial phone call 2 days before we due to be getting our new home, & has played on my mind a few times since it happened tbh as i paid the £120/£150 cost of the jack engineer on top of the boat move as I was so relieved it was a 20 min fix after how anxious we all were about it (boat mover included) as we'd took out a couple of loans on top of selling our old boat. The reason for it happening was the centre line breaking as he went into a lock, and it was too far away to jump on, so it clipped the cill, but (thankfully) he got it off in time. Apparently he walked it through the next few locks to braunston, where the engineer came out first thing with the jack. There was no mention that the centre line was frayed or that there was only one when setting off, and seeing how efficient he was going into the locks when i met up on the last stretch to give him a hand so he could get the last train, i could see why it could well have broken, and was something we wish we'd have known about as i could've just bought a couple of centre ropes from the marina that it was moored at, along with the rest of the necessary / requested itinerary. He was very good otherwise, & we got on really well when i met up, but one frayed rope going into so many locks single hande is not something i'd have considered going into a lock with, and i've been considering getting in touch as it seemed like something that should've been covered under the insurance he had. Thanks for all the info folks! Re weld, yes - thats what was happening before, so if that section is supposed to be welded underneath it does like like its come away slightly if i compare one side of the underneath to the other

I haven't got an adjustable big enough for the nut Bengo, but will have one available tomorrow Took another snap with the tiller on & here's the video. - https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZ5IKGVZHdTsSlFT8u5sXUrj1yn2sVC92poy I noticed it turns clockwise when pulling the neck forward instead anticlockwise, which i doubt makes any difference, but i wonder if it suggests the grubhead screw suggestion & that maybe one of two has come loose. The other thing that might be relevant to mention is when turning & putting it in reverse, there is always a fair amount of water that comes up through the rudder stock, which may have had more force on that recent move, so maybe that had dislodged something?

Thanks Joe - spoke to Ed, really helpful about the fitting, not sure on the length, advising to speak to barrus direct, & recommended Splash in manchester for barrus shire parts. Richard from Barrus also not sure on length, but also gave some tips and suggested the 1113 is likely a good choice if string says 1110. Thanks all

Was that something that requires being out the water to view and rectify?

Sure, I'll get on that tomorrow and post it to see if it suggests anything further.

No idea mate, but I do know the locked rudder was sorted in a very short amount of time the following morning with a boat engineer with a jack who regularly did that sort of thing, and the steering worked normally again, and he set off, so I doubt any grease was added as part of it. I havent added any since but I certainly will do if that will help, and probably something I should've paid more attention too as part of the maintenance.

Cheers Mike. Will do

Thanks so much everyone. Would it be noticeable if it had come out while driving in terms of its ability to steer the boat? I definitely have t got it caught on the cill and I didn't notice hitting anything while moving to the mooring just before I noticed it, though it may well have happened when I was maybe going at more of a speed. After I'd noticed it wasn't fixed like it was before, and set off to the current location, from what I can tell there was no real difference when driving from normal operation and the boat responds as well as I remember, although I wasn't going over 15 with the occasional 20 on the straights, and there was a little bit of wobble in the tiller when over 15. The arm doesnt visibily sit any lower or isn't misaligned from the centre from what I can see, and in reply to the rotation if it's useful I can record a little video but to try and explain, it's the middle / cover section that's the only bit that moves and instead of it coming forward as I'd expect, it turns to the left as I move the neck forward (which obviously the neck or that cover shouldn't be able to do), and then back the other way to its starting position when I let the swan neck back to its seated position. I do know the boat mover I paid over a year ago got the boat caught on a cill going into a lock and that jammed the rudder / swan arm and had to get someone with a jack device to put it back in, but that was over 15 months ago and the steering mechanism has always felt very sturdy compared to our last boat which felt a lot lighter when steering (& definitely was due a bearing replacement) 😊

Ah of course. Thanks Nick. I know it's a Barrus shire 45hp. And that number was in the manual but that's about as far as I've got. I'm guessing one of the belts will be close and if not it'll be the next size up

Does anyone happen to know the size of the drive belt that fits the Electroluxe Travelpower 3.5kw inverter? I think the part number is RDG3143 but I'm not sure and the previous one got ripped apart so I can't check number of it. It's a 6pk one and with string it measures 1100mm. I've ordered a 1113mm and 1123mm from leamco, but would be great to get the actual dimensions from the belt itself if anyone has one?