Boater Sam

If you want it and the price is OK, buy it. You will need to totally strip it out if you want to de rust and protect the inside but many would not bother, plenty of new boats have been built on shells with not even a coat of paint inside.

More terminals, more connections, more switch contacts = more volts drop and more things to go wrong. KISS.?

You cannot get the air out of the heating loop and have the water connections in a place where they will work, cold in at the bottom, hot out at the top. Immersion heater if fitted all in wrong place. Sell it and buy the correct one.

I like individual boats and Barry's were some of the best. A shame its been neglected, hope you can bring it back to life. Which engine do you intend to use?

At a guess, it was the tractor version, that had a huge cast flywheel case with a bottom trap which bolted onto the gear case, very early, possibly predating the Farina A60 and the J whatever vans, The flywheel would of been for the 2 plate clutch, drive and PTO. Started out in the A55 van I was led to believe, very few made.

The voice of sense and reason. I have no qualms about pumping into "no pumpout" Elasan sites, the waste is already shredded and is less likely to block anything than a porta crapper being dumped in.

That's probably another reason why I don't support Farceache.

I ignore them, lots of them, all of them. The sand gets in their orifices and the salt water rots them, they don't last long before they go away.

Ah, so the very early ones used the Riley/Wolseley "B" series basic design of block adapted for the pump drive instead of dissy? That was the 2 bolt starter block being a petrol block originally. Or was that a 3 bearing crank? Heck its been so long its more like archaeology!

Now I have recovered from the shock, greenie to you Sea Dog. Butyl will be fine but high temp pvc is cheaper and OK. Use 2.5mm sq even though it is thicker than need be but the cable clamp and terminals will be made to fit this size properly. If you are using a box type spanner rather than a ring or open end, wire the terminals but fit the clamp and cap after then the cable doesn't get in the way. What ever gave you the impression I am grumpy? I'm just curmudgeonly. ( And have a zero tolerance of fools and impolite people )

Bogoff?

You are. Stop it and enjoy boating instead of worrying about things that are not of concequence. Look at it in 30 years time, it will still be there and OK. There are 50 year old boats afloat that have been wet under the floor for decades. And never been blacked on the bottoms either. 10mm steel takes a long long time to rust through, longer than I can be bothered by.

Don't take on Mike, its not serious. The suggestion was that hub caps were Liverpool's main source of steel, Why else did they all get nicked? Let's just say that at times the quality control down the dock road was at best variable and at worse we had 2 start to sink at launch. Like most things, buyers got what they paid for and like Springers they got hundreds of folk onto the canals.

Slightly stronger terms than I would use but I am in agreement. Others will not agree......................................

The plug will have a hex head around 40mm, use a wrench on it, whack it if its tight. Loosen it with the cylinder full and warm if you can. Marine use element will have 2 stats inside, one for setting the temperature other as a safety overheat. Comes with a new gasket, grease it and the threads before fitting. You should get away without the big spanner if you have a chain or strap wrench for your oil filter? It only needs to be tight enough not to leak. I have done them with a bit of rope and a screwdriver twisted in it when stuck. That cylinder will take a 27" element. Buy a metre of heat resistant immersion heater cable as well and wire it into the element before you fit it, much better than trying to do it in the cupboard!

Ask at Chas. Hardern's boat yard, they will know about it.

Nice job, Vetus yellow head? Its an early 1.5D I think.

Yes on a couple of occasions. Always found R&D to be good. They have produced the plates very quickly even though a special order. We had a problem with a Mitsubishi Vetus unit where someone had altered the flywheel I think to fit the wrong plate, they worked round it OK.

Buy a good inconel sheathed one not a cheap copper one as you may well fill up with slightly aggressive water at some places and cheapies corrode away. 1kW is an advantage if the shore supply is limited to 5 or 6 Amps as some are. But of course takes twice as long to heat up compared with 2kW 2kW would need at least 10 Amps if you are to avoid tripping on switch on. You will lose a small amount of water when you remove the 2 1/4" brass plug, an old towel should cope, but do remember to switch the pump off and open the hot taps first!

I used to work on 239% over the price of single plane float glass area for area. Of course boat windows should be safety glazed, toughened glass on both panes, laminated is too thick usually to use in sealed units. On hire boats its compulsory to use safety glass This will put the price up considerably.

Only 4 single glazed windows, hardwood frames so no condensation there. 4 small DG portholes. Oh and a part glazed front door. Minimal misting on the glass in a morning. Never felt the need to double glaze the windows, the sealed units are not guaranteed when in timber frames either. Is the boat warm? How the hell should I know, not there in winter. But when we did over winter aboard, we had to open windows when the Squirrel was going, it was snug. Houdinis open too. Many boats just have too many windows in the first place.

Is it just a ridiculously small boat for such a monster engine? To drive a prop shaft of at best 2" diameter and dump at best 20HP into the water?

A old thread resurrected for some reason. Without boasting we have a large one too. Our integral bow water tank holds around 1.5 tonnes, last 2 of us 3 to 6 weeks depending on washing machine use and how often we share a shower! So that's 1500 litres, 334 UK gallons, 396 US gallons. Makes serious trim changes.

A nearby lorry or car workshop would be glad to take it especially if the have a sump oil burner for heating.