ChrisPy

http://img3015.photobox.co.uk/06007660b04841fe9df11091f5dbba7acb61f58fb4124b321978444eb58d42b837cb9c14.jpg http://img3015.photobox.co.uk/56618119616d57a026dc5a14f61abb71e7180294a1f74c5d4c29ad15cfbb87f47c11dfbb.jpg collecting from Shropshire Union tomorrow, towing to Bristle.

about 29 tonnes

seems recent posts are following a different track to the OP. you need to define what your installation will include. The shore connection and incoming protection device/s, including hull earth bonding, is just the 'supply end'. if there is no existing 240VAC wiring in the boat, then you need to install a ring main with sockets around the boat, or something of that order. you may also want to install an inverter/charger which gives you the benefit of being able to keep your batteries charged when not using the engine, and of having limited 240VAC when the boat is away from the shore connection. you need to discuss this with other users so that you can decide what you need, only then can you firm up a budget price.

With respect, if you don't know, then you should ask around at the marina for someone who can make (or inspect/check) a safe mains connection and installation in your boat. There are various aspects including earth bonding, RCD trips, circuit breakers, etc., the configuration of which depends on how extensive your installation will be.

why do you have the dedicated BT batteries fitted remote from the BT? it's a recipe for trouble.

Aquapanel from Wickes

white hammerite smooth

why omit the glass reinforcement? it is invisible after applying the epoxy, and the timber surface will be held rigid by the glass (but not by epoxy alone).

not in Albania, apparently

timber exposed to the sun like that will always shrink and move. normal modern deck construction would be a marine ply deck with hardwood planking over, with gaps at joints, set in suitable caulking compound. to avoid starting over, you could fill the gaps with colour matched filler, then sheath in epoxy glass (WEST system).

the weld is similar to a pipe field joint butt weld made by the traditional stick welding process. thickness up to about 15mm uses a simple vee prep with a square land about 3mm deep. a good welder will weld it from the outside only and leave a neat bead on the inner surface which has no undercut or excessive penetration. if it's good enough for British Gas and Shell, then it'll do for a boat hull. very thick pipes are prepped with a J bevel, but that is only to save weld metal (and time) but has the complication that the welder's view and the stick position is restricted and can cause defects like lack of fusion.

I assume that the keel cooling uses the same pump as would have been used by the raw water option. If you are planning to use keel cooling and a raw water cooled exhaust, the first thing you'll need is an additional pump.

I had similar problems which were resolved by fitting new contacts in the relay fixed to the thruster, available at reasonable price from Allbright International (not from Vetus!!). The problem originally arose because I didn't have 12V at the contactor under load, so the contact was intermittent, resulting in the contact faces burning out. I fitted a slave battery next to the thruster, all working fine now.

ooo errr ............... good luck !

just tried it and I ended up in A&E with bleeding feet. where did i go wrong? will you accept liability when I refer the matter to Perjury Schysters for U?

Hammerite special metals primer followed by Hammerite smooth.

I suggested a heat gun not a space heater. Heat is applied to the steel not the atmosphere. The OP refers to 'parts of the engine bay', not 60ft of boat. on the other hand, go choose someone else to argue with, I'm bored with it already.

I used this fixed with Balcotan glue and screws: http://www.goodingalum.com/p10/c12/Aluminium-Stair-Nosing-/Treads Lovely job

?? condensation occurs when damp air hits cold steel, not warm steel. from my own experience, it is standard practice when making field joint coating on pipelines even in sub-zero conditions to heat the steel before applying the epoxy. among other things this causes any surface moisture to flash off. what should be avoided where possible is a gas flame heater that creates water vapour.

I don't understand how any of the checks in the examiner's list could possibly create a single office job. All the checks seem logical and worthwhile. I am surprised that the scheme does not require more checks on 240V. The OP is just being mischevious IMHO.

snot swet tis condensation. use a heat gun (or a good hair dryer) assuming you have 240V.

as long as the steel is as good quality as it used to be when your colecraft was built .................... there are 110 year old dutch barges made from riveted iron/steel no more than 6mm thick, and the original plating lasts longer than any repair patches that may have been applied over the years.

this thread just proves what a nasty bunch of individuals we really are. oh, and I like roti paratha with fried eggs. Roti comes frozen from your local indian food wholesale shop/market.