frangar

We noticed that as well.........Little Venice came into it somewhere as well........must have one of them new type of props...... Cheers Gareth

I noticed it with a "cam" type changeover switch (the type that are normally used for industrial motor controls and the like) The manufacturers (Kraus & Naimer) did a version which was specifically designed for low voltage but unfortunately was also low current as well so they must realise there is a weakness as well. Any more thoughts welcome....(I solved it my rewiring my boat and losing the need for the switch!) Cheers Gareth

One thing I have found is that some 240v switches (esp "high current" rated ones) can have quite a high inbuilt resistance which isnt too much of a problem at 240v but a bugger at low DC voltages....I think it may be how the contacts "mate" as they dont show any signs of overheating at 240v but do have a voltage drop at low DC currents. Gareth

Hi Tim, Wow.....that was a speedy reply! I did think of that but was concerned that due to the design of the box it might be hanging down a bit to start with as it would just be held by the 2 studs where the shaft goes through...TBH i didnt think anything on this engine would be that fussy about alignment but the oil really fell out when I used the "5 washer" spacer.....Take your point about the shims though so will have a measure.....its a right whatsit getting the slide gauge in there tho!!! Cheers Gareth

Hi Finally cured the oil leak on my rebuilt reduction box but......... It appears the reason it was leaking despite making and fitting a new O ring and using some Hylomar sealant was that at some previous point in its life its lost the small spacers which fit over the lower studs that link the reduction box to the gearbox. 4 B form washers had been fitted as a replacement but as these still left a gap when I refitted the box I fitted 5.....this seemed to have just stopped the box seating correctly hence the leak.....I also now realise that the shaft wasnt running true as welll.....ho hum...nevermind!! So just wondered if anyone had a box with the spacers fitted so I can make some up to the correct dimensions, the Lister Part number is X87/10210....A Spacer shim is also listed G/4828 (Page 128/129 in my manual). Given the weight of the box I think it would be best if it was supported properly!! Cheers Gareth PS now just waiting for my Crowthers compensated prop........

Just be aware that most exterior gloss from a few years ago was solvent based and now most of the stuff aimed at the "home" market is water based and not half as good! Gareth

Just to confuse things further if your unit is only designed to run 2 speakers eg left and right running 4 COULD lower the impedance and damage the amplifier of the unit as could switching the speakers when they are being used....eg with the unit on....9 times out of 10 you are ok but the 10th time.......Amps dont like going on/off load suddenly or the impedance changing suddenly. If it is a fairly modern car stereo unit it should be OK and as said earler be designed for 4 speakers having a back left and right- front left and right....just make sure it has been wired up like this and the fade control should work....not just having both sets of speakers wired to the "back" connection. Do you have a model number for the unit???? Cheers Gareth

Pretty sure the interior shots are a studio mockup otherwise some of the camera angles would be more than interesting....hence no rocking.....it is a good mock up tho..... Cheers Gareth

I remember that..If it was you on the trust pair....we followed you up......and lets just say we didnt have to worry about the flood warnings cos you couldnt see the boards due to them being under water.......... In a way it was a good job we were going with the flow......dont think my boat has gone so fast if you judged the speed over land.......and goiing onto the Trent was fun....we heeled over like a dingy as we met the flow on the Trent from the Soar!! Anyway back to the topic.....we have never had any trouble going thro Leicester....its a great trip and certainly no worse than any other major urban area.....just have fun!! Cheers Gareth

The only problem I would see would be a possible confusion between 240V ac and 12/24V dc if they are fitted in similar consumer units unless clearly marked. Cheers Gareth

That was my feeling but I was wondering if the SAE or EP 90 might be a bit thick esp at low temps hence the swap to SAE 50 as specced in the JP manual.....although its interesting about your H manual......might ask Morris's to see what they think......my other thought that most modern oils are probably a better spec than was about when the box was designed and that the box is quite lightly stressed on a 50' narrowboat rather than the small trawler it was originally fitted to! Cheers Gareth

Cheers for that Tim TBH I'm not sure what section was used as Llewellins made it for me, it did however fit in the groove side to side nicely eg sliding fit-not forced in so not sure if its supposed to be a smaller cross-section than the groove....still trying to see if thats exactly where the weep is as after I cleaned at all halfway during the test run its decided not to weep again......ho hum!.....wondering if it might have been the new seal around the output shaft bedding in but it did seem to be coming from between the boxes rather than the other gaskets or drain plug. Interesting about the oil.....Ive gone back to running the engine on SAE 20 after a spell on SAE 30 and apart from being easier to start the oil pressure is the same and again its what the manual recommends. Do you think there would be any advantage/disadvantage in using gear oil over a straight 50?? Cheers Gareth

Hi all Just fitted all the rebuilt parts of my JP reversing & reduction box's back together and have a couple of questions.....(Baldock where are you???) 1) What oil should be used in the reduction box??? I used to use EP90 before it was rebuilt as this was recommended by several people however having just had new bearings fitted and having checked the manual it's now running on SAE 50.... what do others think???....I'm concerned that whilst EP90 might give better protection to the gears it might be a bit thick especially when its cold for the roller bearings. The manual recommends SAE 50 below 85 degrees F and SAE 90 above. Also I'm concerned that the EP additives might cause some problems. 2) I appear to have a slight oil weep which might be coming from where the reduction box goes over the "spacer" between the main and reduction boxes. It was tight getting the reduction box over the new O ring and tight to the plate...indeed I managed to tear the O ring at the top.....does anyone know if the original seal would have been an O ring or was it a seal with a "square" section? If it was does anyone know where you could get a seal of the correct dimensions....I had to have the O ring made!! I dont really want to use any type of "instant gasket" as its always a right pain when you have to take things apart again Apart from that the rebuild has been a success!! Had to have a number of new bearings both in the reduction box and the reversing box including a new Phosphor Bronze one in the reversing box. Also had new cross shafts made as the original ones had bad pitting around where the seals go probably due to the engine having been in a salt water environment before being fitted to my boat. Its now silent when going ahead (still a bit noisy in reverse but what do you expect with an epicyclical box and straight cut gears). There was little wear on the gear clusters themselves and the clutch bands were all in good nick so all in all I'm rather happy considering its probably the 1st overhaul since it was built sometime in the 1940's. If anyone else has a vintage gearbox thats in need of a rebuild then I can reccommend Llewellins Gears of Bristol http://www.llewellins.co.uk/index.html Top service and really nice people to deal with....oh and their factory is amazing.....it even has an underground railway!! and all 2 mins walk from the middle of Bristol. Cheers Gareth

That just might be due to your data plan.......ours didnt let us use msn or skype but since we have upgraded it now does.....think it is to protect their revenue!!!.....we still cant text using skype tho!! (its cheaper for abroad texts!). If you look on the t-mobile site it tells you what you can/cant do for each plan......Just to add ours is a bolt on to our phone's so we can use the phone as the modem rather than a seperate dongle.....means you can check your mail on the phone without booting up the laptop and also move the phone for the best reception. Cheers Gareth

Having had my mums house broken into on NYE by them smashing the window in the double glazed back door I am of the opinion that if they are really determined there is not much you can do apart from live in a window and door less steel box...then they can use a cordless angle grinder.........they also stole all the (hidden) keys but didnt unlock the door to get out......BTW no-one heard anything or noticed that the car had been nicked from the drive until we went down 5 days later to collect the post and found it all.......not nice at all so I can really sympathise... I have now had fitted an all singing and dancing alarm to the house which is connected to a monitoring station........and my must has testeed it by setting if off........dont ask!!! The company which fitted the house alarm has fitted them to sea going boats (they are based in essex) using GSM diallers so that may be a way to go......however dont know if they can alert the police as I think you have to be registered with your local force which might not be practical for a moving target like a boat.......however they could be set to alert you or a neighbour etc Feel free to PM if anyone wants the companies details..... Cheers Gareth

Just a small point but I believe only the earlier models of Adverc have the LOW voltage function on the Green Adverc light.....It was dropped on later models due to when they were fitted in ambulances and the light the warning light used to come on when there was a full electrical load eg lights sirens etc and this causes the crews to report it as a fault even tho everything was working fine.....It does come on the unit fitted to my own boat when the battery voltage is low but then I fitted one a few years ago and thought it was faulty cos it didnt......but a quick call to Adverc sorted it!!! If you are having any trouble I suggest you phone either Mike or Brian at Adverc as they will soon be able to tell you if the unit is working as it should. Cheers Gareth

Whats the betting its fitted with either Victron or Mastervolt............After all you would want something reliable if you were going out to sea........ Cheers Gareth

The Llanberis Slate Museuem in North Wales has a narrow gauge loco which has a JP2 in it....sorry but I cant remember the make of loco!! (good excuse for another visit tho........) Im sure Baldock is on the case but I have a manual for the "Stationary" JP's which I could scan if required. Just out of curiosity how is it started??? If it's hand start it must be fun on your own to try and reach decompressers as you swing the handle!! Its great to see another JP as well!! Cheers Gareth

I can highly recommend Mike Carter.....Lives on a great boat on the Weaver and is well versed in Vintage boats and engines which others dont seem to know about....Very thorough but sensible at same time. http://www.mcarter.co.uk/ Hope this helps! Gareth

What are going to do with your JP???......would love to give it a home but not sure the missus might be happy......Please dont just scrap it tho.....sure we can find it a loving home if you need us to! Cheers Gareth

Can I just add that as an owner of a vintage engine the more sulphur the better!!! My engines injector pump really doesnt like ULS diesel as it relies on the sulphur as a lubricant! So I will be buying Gas Oil for as long as possible! Cheers Gareth

Hombase seem to have the same deal as well.....Think it might be part sponsored by E.O.N. the energy provider judging by the info on the stand.......still a great deal tho! Gareth

IMHO....Beta dont have a clue about what make of alternator (or even voltage E.g. 12v or 24v on one memorable occasion!) so asking for the reg. voltage I should imagine is a bit beyond them!! I dont think they fit any type of "advanced" regulator as during the last conversation I had with them they said that they now fitted regs "which were set to a higher voltage" My advice would be to carefully meter what you have and take it from there. Oh and if you do decide to fit an external reg of any make then either mod the alternator yourself or get the external reg company to do it....Beta may say the do it and indeed charge you but when you get the unit........ Over the last few builds I seem to have spent far too much time sorting out what they should have already done! I am not impressed by their technical dept at all!!..... Gareth Who waits for this little rant to be deleted!!

Blimey..........I could be right for once Gareth

Im sure someone will tell me this is the wrong way to do things but when I set my accumulator up I turned the pump off, opened a tap then pumped it up to about 15 psi....seemed to do the trick for me! Cheers Gareth