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Everything posted by frangar

  1. Blimey......sorry to stir it up sooo much! Part of my problem is that the immersion heater is fitted on the top of the unit (Vertical calorifier) and is only 11 inches long (because of the coils) so it doesnt heat much water hence the problem with the hot water being drawn down into the colder water however I think this might mean that as not so much water is being heated then I wont lose so much through the PRV. - Chris, I understand your workings out but surely this only applies if the WHOLE body of water is heated, I suspect, certainly in my case that there is quite a body of water in the calorifier which doesnt get heated.....certainly not to anything like 85C....My engine only gets to 60C and this is roughly what the Alde and the Immersion stat are set to. Hence why others say they only get a small amount leaking from the PRV I think that I will fit the NRV and see if A- the hot water stays hotter for longer & B- How much the PRV dribbles Will let you know how it goes Cheers Gareth
  2. You should try having someone lock wheel for you on a bike with bad brakes......when they and you meet a fishing match at the same time the results are good fun as the push their rods through the hedge......personally I think fishing should be banned as its as cruel as hunting so i quite enjoy chugging through a match with a deep drafted boat....even more fun is seeing ow quick they can move their keep nets when they are fishing from the lock bollard that you need to come in on!!! Cheers Gareth PS throw bait at my boat and you will see how good my shot is back!
  3. I have had a General Ecology Nature Pure filter for about 11 years now and have just had the misfortune to break the retaining rod that holds the filter housing together when I changed the filter.....had this happen once before about 5 years ago but managed to get the rest of the rod out by drilling a small hole and fitting a screw then pulling it out....phoned General Ecology and the sent me a new rod FOC.....anyhow this time the rod had broken further in so given the age of the unit I had resigned myself to seeing if they would sell just the filter housing however when I phoned and explained what had happened they offered to send a filter housing FOC!!! They still got a sale cos I brought a new spare filter but I found it really refreshing to deal with a company that still seem to value their customers!! Just thought I would let every know as we all (including me!) seem quick to mention companies who customer service is non existent!! Cheers Gareth PS I have now sprayed both the rod and where is slides into the unit with Dry Film Lubricant (made esp. for plastic) to hopefully stop it happening again!
  4. I have read the debate about what size and pressure etc and agree that it might be a good thing BUT...... I havent really got a sensible place to fit one on the Hot side.....I do have an Accumulator fitted to the Cold side....At the moment I dont have a NRV fitted to the cold inlet to the calorifier....I used to have one fitted (and no expansion vessel) but took it off (dont ask why.....long plumbing story!)....I didnt seem to suffer any ill effects although my PRV vents overboard so I dont notice any "dribbles"....although it did dribble when the engine was running even tho this didnt heat the water as hot as the immersion or the Alde (Vintage JP!) However I'm now thinking of refitting the NRV to stop the hot water drawing down every time cold water is drawn off....you can here this happening when the immersion heater is on....there is slight kettleing and the note changes when the cold water is drawn. So apart from a dribbling PRV is there anything else that I should be aware of if I fit the NRV without an expansion vessel? Cheers Gareth
  5. I would stick with either Comastic (made by Spencer Coatings) or CoflexVT (made by Rylard). My boat has been done with them since being grit blasted about 13 years ago and seems to have suffered no pitting since....they are worth the extra cost in my opinion.....apart from the cost does the yard have a reason for not using comastic??? (There might be a few H & S issues but I'm still here!! and nothing to worry about if you are sensible!) Cheers Gareth
  6. My boat has had both types of Alde...and we are still here!! We liveaboard and whilst now we only use the Alde when its really cold (like now!!) when we had the non sealed veersion we didnt have power on the mooring so it was on 24/7 for about 5 years with no ill effects....mind you we keep our fire in all winter day and night....even when we go out (shock horror!!). If you are at all concerned then as others have said get a CO alarm and maybe get it serviced. This guy used to work for Alde and now has a mobile repair service. http://www.grahamcutmoreengineering.co.uk/ or look at Alde's service page http://www.alde.co.uk/service.php Hope this puts your mind at rest! Cheers Gareth PS We only replaced the 1st unit because various bits were getting a bit tired after about 10 years use.....not bad I thought esp seeing what others have to endure with Diesel heaters
  7. Jumped off with rope to find rope not attached to boat......... Why is there always a crowd when this happens???? Cheers Gareth
  8. As far as I know the JP2 & JP3 were fitted with a 3G box and JP4 & maybe JP6 were fitted with a 6G box......not quite sure what the numbers stand for or how the newer engines had a box with a lower number....maybe something to do with the number of gears in the epicyclic system?? It seems that the 2G box has a sloping top plate whereas the 3G has a flat top plate....but I could be wrong on all counts (Mine has a flat top plate if that helps!!) It might be worth buying bits if you can afford it as it never hurts to have bits for vintage machinery.....however this is how I came to have a 6G shaft.... To be honest if your box is only making a noise in reverse then I would leave well alone...perhaps just checking the adjustment on the brake bands being careful not to overtighten them.....If it is grumbling in Ahead then its probably the reduction box...either bearings or geartrain.....which you can still get parts for it would appear!! When you take one apart you can see they are well engineered and rather heavy! so seem to be able to put up with a lot of abuse! Will keep you posted on how I get on! Cheers Gareth
  9. Hi These appear to be for a 2G box.....the one fitted to a JP is a 3G......so I guess they would be even more expensive and maybe harder to get!! 2G's I think were fitted to the FR range and maybe others. Thanks for the link thouugh....might give them a shout to see what they have got and if they fancy my spare 6G shaft! Cheers Gareth I'm afraid thats beyond my knowledge!! I was just going to take the bit's to my nice man who says he can repair it!! Baldock might be able to help Cheers Gareth
  10. Will tell you once I've done mine! The bearings look a fairly standard ball & thrust type so I'm hopeful! Just try not to break anything as you dismantle as after my chat with Peter Thompson it would appear other parts are like rocking horse sh*t Sometimes it can be fun being the custodian of vintage machinery!!....all those people on the towpath who say "that sounds nice" dont get to see this bit!! Cheers Gareth
  11. YAY! Sucess! After a quick chat with Peter Thompson and realising that it didnt come apart quite how I remembered I have now manged to get the bits apart!! (I now see what you mean Baldock!!) The Reduction gears look fine but there is some play in the bearing race on the input shaft to the reduction box so my guess is that is the cause of the noise! Once again thanks to Baldock & Peter for their help. Thats the hard bit over.....Now I can start the rebuild!! Cheers Gareth
  12. Cheers for that Chris! I have managed to get it past the rubber O ring (and indeed have split the reverse box now (as it was meant to be split!)) It seems the reduction box has jammed on the output shaft from the reverse box....The thread that the castallated nut fits on is about flush with the input reduction gear! I have got it all out the boat anyhow. Will give Peter a ring tomorrow....should give him a good laugh if nothing else! Hoping the gears are OK (Peter fitted a new set about 10 years ago and guess they have done about 1500 hours since (need to go boating more!!). But will get in touch if I need any bits.......do you know what the thickness of the brake band friction material should be??? Now its in this many bits may as well make sure it doesnt need doing again in my lifetime!! Cheers Gareth
  13. Hi As part of the gearbox overhaul I have acquired (had an ebay moment!) a reverse gear cluster for a 6G box as fitted to JP4's and above....as I have a JP2 this is not much good!! It seems a shame to scrap it given how rare they must be but having tried all the usual Lister people I cant find a home for it...I didnt pay a lot for it soo if anyone wants to make me an offer and can preferably collect it from either Market Harborough or Brentwood in Essex then please get in touch! Sorry for posting in maintenance...I will also post in for sale but I thought it might not get noticed there!! Cheers Gareth
  14. Hi Just wondering if anyone has a bright idea?? This winters project is the overhaul of my JP2 gearbox's....During the summer the slight grumble I had when going ahead was getting worse so I decided to bite the bullet and get them overhauled.....I have found a company who are able to remake gears and parts for vintage machinery so all I had to do was remove the reduction box and reversing box from the boat (!!) and take it to them. As you might have guessed this has not been as easy as it might have been!! Last time I had to take the reduction box off I'm sure all I did was remove the bolts holding it to the reversing box....undo the castllated nut on the input shaft and slide the box out......however this time it doesnt want to budge....I have got the box out still attached to the reverse gear cluster which was fun in it's self but before either myself or anyone else does any damage I just want to check I havent missed something!! My thoughts at the moment are that the grumbling noise may have been caused by the bearing on the input gear and this has overheated and the race has stuck on the shaft......Any ideas gratefully received! Cheers Gareth
  15. To be honest what I do when I fit a Victron unit is to use a T series fuse externally which is closely matched to the max surge load of the unit AND fit the Megafuse inside the unit thus keeping the warranty intact. The T series fuses are also supposed to blow quicker thus protecting the unit. It also saves the customer having to take the Victron apart. I have found that the supplied Megafuse's are of a much higher rating than the suggested fuse rating in the Victron Manual which is a bit of a worry if not fitting another external fuse. Cheers Gareth
  16. Not sure thats possible cos the Megafuse's are fitted internally.... Gareth
  17. Try your local market...they often have stalls selling foam....not sure if there is one in the Bullring markets.....def one in Leicester market hall HTH Gareth
  18. Thats coz i wuz brung up proper like and couldnt think of a more apt word.......LOL!!! Sorry I have been known to use forthright language from time to time (dont ever pinch my lock!!) Cheers Gareth (Blimey this post has gone a bit off topic hasnt it??????)
  19. I think you may need to bite the bullet and paint the inside of your tank........its not as bad as some say.....honest!! Otherwise you might find the water never clears!! Cheers Gareth
  20. I was merely pointing out what could be fitted in an engine compartment that once housed a Ducati!! As for trading up John then it seems from the OP that they have worked hard on the rest of the boat so just need to "sort" the engine The main problem with the Ducati is a spares supply should anything major need doing which is why my friend replaced his....other than the fact they are a bit noisy and can vibrate rather well (!!) they seem very rugged....his had an alternator fitted as well as the Dynostart so gave a reasonable charge out as well. I agree Alan a SR would make a good replacement.....you might be able to use the existing prop and tailshaft as well Cheers Gareth Believe me the Ducati engine fitted to boats has never been near a motorbike....a cement mixer maybe but not a bike!!! They are a single Cylinder Diesel unit fitted with a Dynostart and usally a manual (as in big separate gearlever) reversing box Cheers Gareth
  21. Couldnt agree more.....my point about the chosen few was that any newcomer runs a high risk of being shot down if they disagree with an established member even if they have a valid point...I also get fed up when some one asks a perfectly valid question only for the know-it-alls to chip in and ruin the thread.....I will probably stay here but only because if I go then the prats will have won!! Cheers Gareth
  22. A friend of mine had a Ducati in a 38ft Springer and had Marine Engine Services repalce it with a Lister Alpha twin which fitted nicely as I assume most of the twin Kabota based engines would....true you would have to fit a skin tank but if you had a welder make up new engine mounts then a skin tank is no big deal...I think a BMC would be too big both in size and power for a small Springer.....However an SR2 would be just as good...just depends how much you want to spend!! Cheers Gareth
  23. If you want my opinion then I think there is fault on all sides.....Terry L may be over the top but the others are no better...just cos you have been on here a while is no excuse for being a pompous twat!...No wonder this forum is just for the chosen few!! Gareth
  24. Esp Sky boxes...all the standby button does is mute the audio & video outputs...this is because in a home situation the box needs to phone out in the wee small hours to tell Mr Murdoch what you have been watching! Hence why Sky insist you have it on a phone line for the 1st 12 months. Cheers Gareth
  25. We got one from Maplin when they were on special.....one of my winter projects is to fit it into the AC panel which having taken the unit apart shouldnt be too hard.....however you might have to be a bit careful if the shore input is a full 16A as these units seem to have a max rating of 13A might just overload one to see what happens......(on a test rig...not the boat!!) Still miles cheaper and with more readings than any of the "Proper" AC units I have found tho!! Cheers Gareth
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