jonathanA

well up north we've the opposite problem - plemty of boats, plenty of locks and no lock keepers of the volunteer or paid variety ! Done 4 sets of locks on the L&L in the last couple of days - yet to see a lockie !

32A at 110v makes it about a 3.5KVA (i.e 3.5kw) - so enough to boil an electric kettle thats quite a reasonable sized generator, I'm doubtful its that big, from what you say, but without seeing it or any info its impossible to know. look to see if there is any manufactuers plate which might give details like voltage, frequency (50 or 60Hz), rating in amps or 'VA' Just bear in mind you don't need 50 amps at 110 volts for your 50A charger. Thats 50 amps at 12 volts so at 110V its something like a tenth of that so nearer 5 or 6 amps at 110V. As a simple thing it doesn't make a lot of sense ot run a 110V generator to run a charger to put 12v into your batteries you might as well just use your 90A alternator on the same engine instead. There might be an argument about the stirling/victron chargers being intelligent and therefore better able to get your batteries back to approaching 100% SOC than a simple alternator, but I'm not getting into that as there is thread after thread on the battery charging/chargers on here... I have to say pulleys, brackets, plywood it all sounds a bit heath robinson to me, so I would keep it simple and just stick with the 12v alternator good luck sounds interesting though.

Ok, You can buy '110v' RCD's and breakers but they look remarkably similar to 240v ones - becuase they usually are the same. (the ones I've seen anyway) for RCD's the voltage is irrevelevant its the difference in currents flowing through the 'live' and 'neutral' thats makes them work. Trips/MCBS work on current and so again the voltage doesn't matter. you could use MCBs on 12v if they were rated for Dc. clealry its not good to mix all those voltages in the same fuse board/distribution board and all should be labelled clearly. I'm not comfortable suggesting what other considerations there might be in terms of safety and where/how/if an rcd should be included, so hopefully someone else may offer an opinion, but I would think looking at 240v arrangements like this would be a good start.

obvious thought... would you connect up any other 12v or 240v system without fuses or breakers ? I would have thought it sensible (!!!) to include some sort of breaker/fuse/trip to protect both the generator and of course more importantly prevent any overloading/fire risk to the wiring supplying the 110v device(s) Bear in mind that the current at 110v will be about double that of the equivalent mains device, so cables may need to be a bit heavier and fuses/trips sized accordingly. I think the device your showing is an isolator so would not provide any protection against overloading, shorts etc. I have the 20A version of the stirling pro and it seems to work just fine - presume you've checked to make sure its input voltage can be 110V. Others who are more knowledgable will doubtless be able to advise on what the safety related issues are (earthing, RCDs etc)although in theory if the output is centre tapped to earth (as industrial 110 transformers are) then it will be inherently safer. hope that helps a bit

if you think about this it can't actually work... call 0800 from lets call it the 'orange' network, pay thier normal rate. call your mates 0800 number from your 'orange' mobile umm same thing ? There were/are companies offering a mobile number or ordinary number (that would be included in your free minutes) which then let you call an 0800 number, there would be an option for the operator of that facility to make some money either from the mobile operator for terminating the call or from revenue share on 084x/0870 numbers onward dialled...

they are ! here is a summary of what they are proposing: Ofcom’s main proposals · Freephone (080 and 116 numbers) - to be free to callers from all landline and mobile phones - CWW’s 050 numbers will be consulted upon separately and should follow the same principle · 03 - to become the only non-geographic number range linked to the price of a call to a geographic number (e.g. the 01/02 number ranges) · Revenue sharing ranges - 084, 087, 09 and 118 numbers (where a portion of the retail charge is shared with the receiver of the call) are to have a common simplified structure Under the new proposals, call costs for 084/087, 09 and 118 numbers will be unbundled so that consumers will be presented with two charges on their bills, an Access Charge set by their phone provider (whether fixed or mobile) and a Service Charge chosen by the provider of the service they are calling. This will allow consumers complete visibility of what they are being charged and will also allow service promotions to state that charges will be “X pence per minute plus your telephone company’s Access Charge”. Website : http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/consultations/simplifying-non-geographic-no/summary Its Ofcom so don't hold your breath....

brilliant !

Its a fair point, but misleading as RCR often use the same local engineers/boatyards anyway... I compared the fine print from the inlands waterways breakdown assistance policy and the RCR silver cover (broadly comparable) and decided at £60 vs £130 I'd go with the former. Agree more competition would be good - get the feeling RCR are a little complacent. Boils down to how much peace of mind you want and what your prepared to pay for it. I have friends on the Lancaster canal who don't have any cover and aren't very mechanically minded, but they never venture off that canal and know they can ring the fella who services their boat and he'll come out and sort it for them.

Hi Depends on how handy you (he is) with a bag of spanners... I consider myself fairly handy, but when I had a broken fan belt and no spare - not having any cover was by no means the end of the world but was inconvenient to say the least ! As it happens our insurance company (collidge and partners)offers a £60 year policy which covers you for 3 or 4 callouts and has assistance with getting you/passengers home. I considered it better value than the RCR silver cover and better than RCR retainer. Not sure if other companies offer similar insurance polices (which it what it is). After our one minor breakdown (so far) I really thought we should have some cover as it can be really hard to source even simple parts (e.g fan belts) when your halfway up a flight of locks in the middle of no where...

looking good after its recent refurb good luck with the events.

i wouldn't get too hooked up on the colour. The convention is blue =240v yellow =110v. Orange is usually associated with outdoor domestic extension leads (often 2 core) or carvan/motorhome/boat hook ups if its 3 core like yours. you'll probably find some markings on your cable if you look closely like 300/500v BS6500 or something which you can google if your really interested. Although I personally wouldn't use secondhand cable, (but then I use enough to make it worth my buying it in 100M drums anyway) - there doesn't seem to be any reason why you shouldn't use this for your intended purpose. I just don't think your really saving yourself a lot of money unless you were going to pay chandlery prices for it.... As always if your not sure consult a qualified person blah blah and I'm just giving you my personal advice/opinion

Yes IIRC that was the story that the pound was a bit low and he got hung up on the cill entering the lock and then either the bottom gates leaked very badly or failed in some way. in fact just found the details here: http://waterwaynews.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/huddersfield-stoppage-as-boat-sinks.html

no birmingham is downhill from everywhere coat...

I think some of the newer better 4w sockets don't allow this, but it is/was a recognised way of getting euro plugs connected. slightly off topic but please do have a look at this site : http://www.fatallyflawed.org.uk/ it exposes the dangers of so called 'safety covers' for 13A sockets.

a bit of a false economy to use second hand cable I'd say although if you've had it from new and its been kept in good condition then i suppose you could use it - would you be happy using second hand mcb's/rcd's and fittings? if oyur buying them new why wouldn't you buy new cable ?

as you say done to death but with not a single case of anyone actually having a problem with nominal 12v equipment connected to boat 12v systems. up to people how cautious they want to be and when and what they connect but its clearly not true to say that anything will blow up in a cloud of smoke as soon as the boats engine starts turning, no more than it true to say there won't ever be a problem... just trying to present a alternate view, albeit less cautious, up to the OP to decide what he's happy with. If you read my post you'll note that the tevion set I've got specifically comes with a 12 v cigar plug lead, which implies its fine, but yep its possible that a couple of volts extra might see it off as might one the other nasties lurking on a boats 12v system

just plug it into your boat 12v supply -problem solved. I've got the same unit and it came with a 12v car cigarette lead you can use instead of the mains PSU. If the replacement 6VA unit worked and wasn't getting too hot I wouldn't worry too much, it more likely that your underpowered PSU would get very hot (dangerous) and/or fail. the fact it was working suggests that either the Tv doesn't need the full 1A the original was supplying or your replacement can push out a bit more than its rated too. Its not ideal and you should look for one that is a better match for the original.

As the previous poster said the more expensive H07 cable is designed for heavy duty outdoor use, since on a Nb the cable is most likely in trunking or conduit then i can't see why there would be a need for h07, and the generally accepted practice is to use blue artic.

actually i consider it bollox... but your right I won't concern myself with it...

technobabble....

what does your engine manufacturer say ? on my canalstar the workshop manual gives a deflection for an applied force (measured with a spring balence) which seems very scientific. When a new belt is correctly fitted and tensioned a force (F) of 31.0-33.5N (7.0-7.5lbf) is required to deflect it a distance (d) of 3.5mm (0.14in). On subsequent checking and adjustment a force (F) of 22.0-24.0N (5.0-5.4lbf) is required to deflect it a distance (d) of 3.5mm (0.14in).

thanks mike, I recently bought a new coil of co-ax and as it happens 'digital' cable was cheaper than the old style brown coax, it looks better engineered (foil plus better braid etc) but I've not actually compared the technical specs. real life experience is what counts though ! but there will still be more connectors than I would wish, not helped by the fact that I have had to incorporate an F socket to F socket converter at the aerial end because, amongst the hundreds of alternative socket & plugs available, no one seems to sell an F socket to cable connector. not sure I've seen one either what I've used for connecting my sat dish to my external socket is a back to back F connector. The one I've used is designed for mounting in equipment so has a flange+nut+washer. use the usual f type connector on the lead to the inside and then its ready to take the lead from the sat dish/aerial. it cost a few pence from CPC but no doubt you can get them from other places too http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=CN0701305

I inavertantly moored up in said space, at a popular spot, when i first got my own boat and my error was politely pointed out by another boater drawing my attention to the big white signs... obviously I moved straight away feeling suitably embarassed - guess there are some who would tough it out/ignore (like the hire boat the next day at the same spot) I think the issue for me would be not wanting to inadvertantly get too close to another boat (e.g if there was a stiff breeze/gust of wind) - always nice to know there's a bit of space 'just in case'. I suppose the counter agrument is if you encroach on a winding hole then you should be prepared for a bit of contact or prop wash from someone using the hole...

well I have moored up on a 'long term moorings only' section and will do so again, as in the case I'm thinking of there's been no one 'in residence' for 2 years and they are patently not used. Some a few yards further up are and I'd never dream of using those...

Err - don't think thats true having been a volunteer twice on a BW workboat that was also skippered by volunteer picking up shite from the cut. the only stipulations where that the skipper had to have a helmsmans certificate and produced said documentation to BW (as it was) and all crew had to wear BW supplied life jackets at all times when afloat. This was on the L&L last year under BW I hope CaRT are as accomodating....