by'eck

I'm hoping for another 200+ years on mine It needed 1st undersize crank re-grind at 70 years leaving two more

Please take the advice already given. To answer your specific questions though when powering oven from inverter, you would need one or more engine alternators providing a total of around 250 amps and it's unlikely you have these. The battery bank would ideally need a capacity in excess of 500 amp hours to allow for situation when engine not running. The inverter would be working for sustained periods close to it's limit so will get hot. How long it survives depends on the quality but I wouldn't put money on that being too long. When on shore power you may be close to tripping the bollard breaker if you have any other mains devices such as chargers running. In summary even if you engineer your electrics to power the oven, you will need to rush around turning off other battery and mains powered devices every time you wish to use the oven.

It must be at least two years ago that Sterling did introduce a Charger only facility on all their range of Combi's. I enquired if it could be retro-fitted to earlier models and the answer was yes but at a price and factory fitted.

Hi Ratty, Two questions: Have you tried a different mains socket on the bollard as they each have their own breaker? Have you ensured that all mains devices are turned off other than the Sterling Combi? This would include immersion heater and any other mains device supported by the Combi, mains fridge for example. It's not apparent from the photo which Sterling Combi model you have, but the largest version has a 100 amp charger and can give more. This means it takes a fair amount of power from the shore supply which when added to that supplying other devices may trip an over sensitive breaker. Finally by way of advice, always turn the Combi off when shore power not present and you don't require AC on board. Failing to do this will mean the charger is regularly working flat out to re-charge batteries, which I suspect is contributory to your problem. If it's any consolation, I had virtually the same issue when using my own Sterling Combi. Having tripped the shore breaker by being a numpty and adding an electric kettle to the load, I didn't notice the inverter on the Combi had take over, consequently batteries were drained a little. Had to switch all other AC loads off to avoid tripping the sensitive 16 amp breaker again when I realised the problem - CombI was putting 110 amps into batteries for a while!

French brass Klaxon horn.mp3

Can't you source some heavy gauge brass strip, maybe from a tip and drill accordingly?

I ran two Sterling 50 amp chargers in parallel on a previous boat. Sterling even offered a double mount bracket to achieve such. Just connect them to batteries as you would a single unit with independent cables and fuses.

And not dissimilar from the one piece Bugle which was the mutts nuts when I was sailing in the early 2000's. Small hole is for upsetting via anchor float line.

Interesting that the government think so highly of our newish 70mpg or 150 bhp diesel Mini that they only charge £30/yr VED. Doesn't really stack up with the latest media round of anti-diesel hype.

Seem to remember a batch of 2LW's were built in the mid 90's to service an order to replace worn out ones in South African mining loco's. A few UK orders were tagged onto this. Remember viewing a 1995 high spec nb built with a new one. Marine Dorman 4DSM and gearbox - 20hp @ 1000rpm

Trembler coils, one for each cylinder controlled by a low voltage distributor, produced multiple sparks on early cars such as the first Model T's, allowing the possibility of starting a stationary engine when the advance/retard control was adjusted. Have witnessed this method of starting on a vintage Rolls departing a car ferry. Not sure it would work so well with more conventional single spark coil ignition system.

Exactly but his proposal amounts to a fruitless re-invention of the wheel. What has been suggested is a proven alternative that still utilises a generator powering an electric propulsion motor, but in the most efficient manner.

CCA is time, temperature and voltage related but only likely achievable in a laboratory or possibly for the first few occasions the battery is used. Although CCA and amp hour capacity of a battery go hand in hand, it seems to me the latter is a better parameter to be considered long term when choosing a starter battery, subject to its ability to supply adequate current in the first place. No point in having a high CCA battery if it fails to have the remaining capacity to supply the required current long enough to start a stubborn engine. I'm sceptical therefore of Lithiom Ion baterries for start applications. Given their low weight they seem to be a popular choice in car racing applications supplying high CCA but with relatively low capacity. Interesting also that many hybrid cars whilst employing Li-Ion for main storage still use a lead/acid battery to start the engine.

Take a look at car hybrid systems. Remember that your electric propulsion motor won't be running at full chat all the the time, so a set of batteries to take up the slack and fill in when power requirements are highest will be by far the most practical and economic solution. A relatively small and commonly available 240v AC generator driving a smart mains charger should be fine once the average power requirements are catered for in terms of battery bank size and charge capability. A bonus is that batteries can also get charged when shore power is available, with no additional equipment expense.

Nothing wrong with 12 volt 3000 watt inverter/Combi installation as long as it's engineered properly with short battery cable runs of correct gauge. Regarding Whisper generators, my experience with 6kVA 3000rpm Lombardini engined version was that basic engine and alternator were fine, but the rest of the installation particularly the wiring and electronics were rubbish. Not surprised that Mastervolt divorced themselves from any connection with product. Must have represented a huge embarrassment for them.

I would have agreed but for the fact that Martyn at MPS had several substancial offers when word got around he was rebuilding one (a slower revving 6L3) for a private customer some years back. It was to refit in ex fireboat Beta III, undergoing a full restoration at the time. Tony Redshaw had a rare marine 3L3 in his then new location at Daventry a few years back, and maybe still has. 8L3's were a popular fit in diesel shunters.

Further thoughts are that this may be a voltage sensing issue which only manifests itself in float mode. The 50 amp Sterling charger I imagine you have is a three output one. If so any unused positive output must be strapped/connected to to one that is, typically the one feeding the largest battery bank. If only one output is used both the others must be strapped to it to avoid artificially high voltage sensing. If, and I appreciate it's a big if, it proves to be the case, its something you could easily check and correct yourself.

The only time this and probably most other multi-stage chargers will put out zero charge current is following the transition from higher absorb voltage to float, before the batteries adjust to the lower voltage. During this temporary condition a discharge current may be seen on a battery monitor despite charger remaining on. Another charge source (solar, engine alternator or another mains charger) holding the batteries above the charger in questions regulating voltage will also cause it to temporarily cease producing a charge current. I have to say though that 11 volts is way below any float voltage so assuming this is an accurate figure, looks like the charger has a fault.

A multi-stage charger in the initial constant current mode sometimes exceeds it's max output current for a short while after initial switch on. I have seen 108 amps from my Sterling Combi''s 100 amp rated charger, with highest figures ironically when batteries only partially discharged. In OP's case 25 amp fuse is too low suggesting that manufacturer lacked confidence in the product. Suggest 50 amp replacement.

Agree on use of long shaft and best/only method for a single hander. You are already at the stern so with boat gently in reverse, pushing initially with long shaft away from bank will have the stern moving out towards centre of canal/river. The wind force on the shallower draught bow will keep it sliding along the bank and thus maintain your diagonal progress in reverse. When stern is well over to windward side forward can be engaged with plenty of rudder to steer bow away from bank.

Suspect battery capacity has dropped to a tiny fraction of original. If this is the case, it doesn't matter how long you charge them and how powerful the alternators are, the bank simply won't be capable of storing much charge. They will therefore reach the minimal fully re-charged capacity in short order, but by the same token they will discharge to a low level quickly when asked to maintain anything but the lightest load after charging ceases.

As suggested calorifier's are available with up to three heating coils to warm the water within the tank. Add the possibility that they could also have a screw boss to take a mains, typically 1-1.5 kW, heating element and you could have four separate heating sources, mains electric, engine, back boiler and diesel heater say. This might be considered a tad OTT however

I think you are missing the point that a robust BT charging system will maintain the BT batteries fully charged for the most part whilst engine is running. Any heavy use immediately prior to switching off will quickly be compensated for next time engine is started. Alternatively the engine could be left running for a few minutes after tying up. If boat is to be laid up a small mains charger left on float will ward off much of the sulphation.

You could also consider charging via engine alternator(s) if they are 24 volt. Suitably large charge cables will offer minimal volt drop especially for 24 volts. You could even use a Sterling battery module 12 -> 24 volt if main system is 12 volts. I have a Nobels 12 volt BT and charge the two bow located 110 ah batteries via a 90 amp alternator. Any use is compensated within a minute or two by this robust charge system which has seen over 100 amps down the charge cables.

Two 12 volt 110 amp hour batteries wired in series to give 24 volts sound fine. Not much to choose between leisure and starter batteries as they are similar construction. Agree that thick plate deep cycle batteries of similar capacity not really adequate to provide the short term high currents needed for BT. Your 8 amp charging system seems feeble though even assuming the 240 volt supply is permanently available whilst cruising. A 20 amp multi stage charger would be better to quickly replace charge lost when using BT, and keep them fully charged ready for next use, especially if you use the BT frequently.