Slim

In my youth (50 years + ago) I fitted my Ford 100e with a Redex injection system. It bled Redex into the engine from a 2 pint tin in the engine compartment . The mètering device on the dashboard had an override / boost button. A couple of presses on the button laid down a smokescreen a WW2 naval distroyer would have been proud of. Great when someone was tailgating you

Puff Along, Assuming a) that it's a 1.8 type set up and b) The engine has not been rotated since the pump was removed. The following is a paraphrased version of my manual. Fit torsion bar (that's the thin gear wheel think on a flat bar) into the drive flange on the engine. (The Timing chain driven gear youu're trying to engage with Position the pump drive shaft so that it's master spline lines up with that on the drive flange Fit the pump drive shaft over the end of the torsion bar and VERY GENTLY (manual capital letters) engage thedrive shaft spline.s with the drive flange (it's here where the slight twist comes) Push the pump as far into position as possible. Fit nuts etc........... Hope the above helps and don't forget those swear words.

Reading this topic I assume the engine is some type of BMC. If so and if the pump is similar to the 1.8 the technique is as follows. Offer the pump up, push/feel it in, at the same time give it a gentle but firm twist anti-clockwise. It WILL glide home after a few tries. À few choice swear words are an option. If it's not similar to 1.8 sorry to have wasted your time. Frank

I've used it on the last 2 occasions. The first time I used it I scarified the hull first. Dirty, hard job but worth it. Out again next week after about 18 months. A bit premature but it's out of the water for a new stern tube so silly not to black it. Personally I wouldn't trust any bitumen based treatment any longer than 2 years.

Thanks for info

Equally off topic. Are you aware Midland Chandlers now stock Craftmaster. Claim to stock the whole range.

What those tests don' test is durability. My professionally repainted roof (back to metal) lasted 2 years. I STRONGLY suspect the painter used Teamac anti slip though I specified Craftmaster throughout.

I'm very sorrý but unless you can get CAST IRON guarantees WALK. Most obvious solution is to pay ondelivery not before.

Thanks

Why is it always the last one that a b***ar* ? I gave mine a good dose of PlusGas and walked away for 24 hours.

Thanks for the comments and ad?vi?ce. Obviously until I get the old tube out I can't assess the boss's condition. All I know ar rhis stage is that there is no sign of rust where the present tube enters the boss. I've got a small wire brush for the drill and a dremel with small wire wheels. Left the electric toothbrush at home so I'll have to go manual with that. Forget the name of the thread sealing compound I've got (it's brown in a tin with a brush in the lid. If I need a new boss so be it but how the hell do you cut out the old one. Any work I can't do Richard, who owns the slip will be able to do (I hope). Thanks for the advice and ignore the misplaced smilies Any ideas where I could get ' Red Stag' in the general area of Banbury tomorrow? Just checked, the stuff I've got is Heldite. Suitable ?

Boat is out of the water next week and I'm replacing the stern tube, shaft and mayb stuffing gland. For the stern tube / boss what's the best sealant to use? Frank

I've moored there a couple of times and found it full a couple of times. If it's full (3 or 4 boats) and you're going north you face some pretty grim miles of canal.

Have a wander around a larger B&Q, I've seen them (from a distance)

The fruit juice plays havoc with their I phone screens.

Baked apple. Not had one for years and me with a Bramley apple tree almost falling down with fruit. Off to the boat for a few days but must go harvesting as soon as I get back. All other ingredients in cupboard. Can I use cinnamon sticks? Genuine question as I'm no Gordon Blue.

I've got no axe to grind just citing my experience 30 years ago using the process. In my case it worked with no apparent effects on the valve gear. bearings, oil pump etc. From a position fairly similar to the OP I followed the advice of an established engine re-borer (who's still there 30 years on) and it worked. Going back to the Miller Oils site their information specifically mentions bearings etc. As a company they've been in existence since 1877 (132 years) so they're hardly a start up organization.

My last 3 cars have had Stop/Start and it's a pain in the a*s*. It's of no benefit in the real world just a legislation workaround and income generation for the dealer. "we've updated the software and fitted a new support battery, that will be £***please. American Express, that will do nicely"

Whilst I couldn't remember it's name Morris Glazebuster is obviously what I used. If it is available it may not be 'a good thing to use' and may be 'a sort of last resort' I would be interested to know on what basis you make those comments. Yes, it may be a lousy engineering solution but I can only repeat that it worked for me. Please note that I'm not trying to enter into an argument just interested. To the OP. IF you decide to go down the glazebuster line I've just done a quick google and Millers Oils do a glazebuster oil. The same search found Amazon selling it but only in a 4 x 5 litre offer at £100. Whatever you decide to do, good luck

Sorry, I didn't give enough information. The building is a warehouse in the middle of Watford which the 'developer' wants to convert into 10 ? flats for sale. Seemingly due to legislation the Local Authority are powerless to refuse the application. Can't provide a link but covered by the Watford Observer in late July / early August complete with photograph. Worth looking at. Also guilty of rambling...….

30 years ago I bought a 30' yacht with a BMC 1.5 engine that smoked badly. Stripped the engine and had the bores checked. On the advice of the long established engine reconditioners I had the bores honed and fitted new rings. The engine still smoked badly. I was ready to go for a full rebore etc. The reconditioner suggested (and supplied) I try what I can only describe as a gritty feeling oil for an hour or so under a reasonable load followed by an oil change to a running in oil for a few hours followed by normal oil for 20 hours. At all oil changes the filter was changed. The end result was that the engine stopped smoking and went on to give good service. Vaguely remember the oils being Morris's but could be wrong.