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Ant cole

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  1. Ant cole

    Ruggerini rm278

    Hi, we didn’t need compression tests as it has had new liners and piston rings , , I pulled the fuel pump off and all the shims , then put feeler gauges under it and ran it with different heights ,at this moment in time the smoke is ok when she’s warm , as the temp only seems to get to about 70 degrees. I’ve clamped a hose down a bit to limit water to get it to run hotter,,, we have been running like this since summer , as the fuel pump has no shims under ,slight oil from its mount but not major , , it’s usable , we still shut it off in locks. , but as a holiday weekend boat it’s ok , , we will probably upgrade the boat in about a year so don’t want to spend ££££ On new engine unless a real good cheap new one comes along, To be fair , it always starts good, and people seem to like the 2 cylinder pop pop , , ,, never a dull moment and always something to alter , Ant
  2. Hi guys. , on my ruggerini rm278 after a rebuild by a professional , my injectors had 2x .5 mm one side. And 1mm the other ! My book says use .5 mm. , , when I replaced the nozzles all the shop had was 1.5 , , so atm I have 2mmNot right I know , it’s running well but light grey smoke , .does anyone know what difference the size makes as to smoke ? . Will.5 give less unburned diesel which I appear to be getting ,,,,,. atm as we have no timing marks. I’m running with feeler gauges under the fuel pump to simulate shims till I get a sweet spot , not ideal but works , Cheers guys.
  3. Ant cole

    Ruggerini rm278

    Hi guys. , re last few posts. , we have had ongoing issues with smoke , at the moment we have changed injector nozzles , all clean fuel and at the moment the fuel pump is under trial with feeler gauges to shim it at different heights, Everything I read says advance timing , ie remove shims to advance to get less smoke , we have tried all shims removed and it was worse, , now we have .8 thou gap and it’s way better, , Our engine has no glow plugs , since altering timing we have to use hot air gun to warm manifold , so it’s a pig to start but runs ok , Its hunting a bit however , engine temp is about 57 degrees measured on digital device at top of manifold where temp sender is , ? Any ideas on temp or timing ? There are no timing marks on our pulley , it’s basically an Italian tractor engine ,
  4. Thanks , well. We’ve gone about as far as we can . I’ll see if key diesel can sort the smoke issue out,but I doubt they can , spent a lot of time and money on boat and got nowhere with the engine , it always starts and runs well , just the smoke issue , but to be honest we’re fed up , so I think time to sell ,
  5. Smoke is always there , worse under load . . Engine temp is good. , running. At 70 degrees at manifold , measured with digital gun , ,, when wind blows smoke back at us it’s nasty , not plumes of it , but you can see it against the water , after a few hours cruising I can feel it in my throat sort of , , we have been shutting engine off in locks , and now we only cruise local as I won’t take it out far, ,,as I said. Key diesel have had a look as a favour , who Rcr use to build engines , I’m awaiting their advice after sending them my manual info , ,boat goes great , sounds great , The rm278 is a de rated rd270. , the 270 is 28 bhp industrial tractor engine . The rm278 ,same engine but derated to 18bhp for marine use. , ,I do not know how they lower the bhp , as everything near identical apart from fuel pump it seems to me , the rd redlines at 3000 the rm redlines at 2000,
  6. We have had the injectors and pump serviced and tested. , all ok , but the pump for the rd278 is different than all the other models. , so if for example it has been changed for an rd270 pump in past it will be an incorrect delivery , yes we we have a manual , but even the mechanic who rebuilt it is confused by the manual , as he says. Sometimes things don’t translate well Italian to English , , spill timing looks like a very complex thing to me.
  7. Hi guys. , smoke latest ! After our engine rebuild we have still got smoke We have had the top rebuilt , so we are pretty sure it’s not oil , Key diesel have just had a look and agree with me it’s overfueling ,as it’s grey smoke ,smells ,and doesn’t clear after a good thrash . we are still running it in ,and now looks like either fuel pump timing is retarded ,or the fuel pump is the wrong type .its a bitch to alter timing as you can’t see it,and adjusted by shims ,ie. retard. Add shins. Advance remove shims. ,, as we believe it’s retarded. We have to remove shims ,, only appears to be one shim in , key diesel not come back with anymore suggestions as yet , When it’s tied up and rev it ,either under load or not we get grey smoke and a film of what appears to be diesel on the water from exhaust , we know all the colours of diesel smoke , etc. , but any advice welcome , There is a smoke screw on engine which alters amount of fuel delivered. When this is altered ,revs drop and smoke still there, so we presume it’s not the amount of fuel delivered , so we assume. It’s when it’s delivered, , ie....timing , . We have an engineering manual ,however appears to be no timing marks anywhere , Last ditch attempt to solve before we have to sell it , Ant
  8. I am no engine expert , but my engine man has 30 years of experience and on ruggerini .lombardini and kholer, The part hone was all we could do without total engine removal again , The bores seemed quite glazed , but again I’m no expert , We honed down to top of pistons , better than nothing , Im not hopefull and pretty resigned that we will end up selling it , next few weeks will tell , we have spent a lot of time and money and come to end of it , ,
  9. We had engine rebuilt , it smoked from day 1 but engine man Said it will bed in and get better ,,,new liners etc pistons and rings lasted about 6 weeks. , and excessive smoke , so my engine guy came over after my complaint , we took head off , he said bores looked glazed , although I said we were not taking it easy or leaving ticking over , , we then had the valve seats redone just in case , , as he said bores looked shiney , he used a gadget on drill , ie honer and wd40 for short while to scuff bores again , but as we only had top off. Not bottom, pistons still in situ , so we could only hone part way down , at this time we had injectors and pump checked , all ok , , , then i was told. Really give it some stick , , ,
  10. The boat smoked when we bought it , but as was cold and didn’t go for big run we didn’t notice too much , , it has normal oil in atm , , , the reason for think8ng use glazebore. As in previous thread. , when we retook top of engine off we could only hone prt way down with honer as pistons were not removed , and it’s not abrasive oil its just not as smooth an oil , according to their tech , , no abrasives or anything like that ,even my engine rebuilder just put normal oil in , and he specialises in marine and light industrial , and surprisingly Morris oils tech guy said this happens a lot , especial”y on old cars , rebuild , no running in oil and they begin smoking , ,, so have to use glazebust then running in oil again, back to my engine , ,the rm278. Is a marinised. Rd270 engine , the 270 is 28bhp. The 278 downgraded for marine use , , , , i cannot find any info on how to check timing , ,nor can my engine man , , , so any ideas appreciated , ,
  11. We have given it a damn good hiding , , I’ll adjust the fuel adjust smoke screw to give it more power , as that was lowered to reduce fuel as valves seemed a bit coked up when we had the head off , that makes quite a difference on top speed of boat . .. it’s basically a mechanical rod to alter fuel amount , pump is preset , the only thing we can’t find is how to check timing , there are no marks on crank ,
  12. Well I’ve got the glaze buster oil and some running in oil , I’ll put in at weekend. , £54 the two. 5 Lts each , , re colour of smoke , to be honest I think grey , but when going through tunnel on Sunday it looked more blue , , as I said no apparent oil usage , , tank been cleaned , water sock in it now , marine 16 in , and I’m using white diesel atm to illuminate bad red possibility , Jerry Can added last week , , , we cruised 7 hrs on Sunday , 1 hr tied up near full throttle in gear , 6 going near full out , as it’s only 18bh approx as only 45 ft boat , , , , and good part of canal to boot it , exhaust fumes smell bad , I can’t take it in locks anymore , , . , will try glaze bust for a few cruises then put running oil in , , I doubt glazed but as a precaution , , , I’ll check running temp. With my digital gun , , only other thing is now a water leak from where header tank meets exhaust manifold , . I don’t quite get how a water cooled manifold works yet , is it just a jacket around the manifold ? Leak seems to be from a bung underneath, , . Nobody in the modern world seems to be familiar with a ruggerini rm278, I’m beginning to think I should have replaced not revamped , .,. ,
  13. We were going to clean exhaust but on examination it’s welded in , so question , can I just split from manifold , block up and pour caustic soda and water down from outside of boat via funnel , Leave a day then drain , are there any parts that could be damaged by this , and any idea how long to dry out ? . , and most importantly is this worth doing ? . .
  14. We’re trying Morris’s glazebuster oil. Then classic running oil . After more advice. So at least we’re getting on with it.
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