Jump to content

blackrose

Member
  • Posts

    28,631
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

blackrose last won the day on August 6 2020

blackrose had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

blackrose's Achievements

Veteran II

Veteran II (12/12)

3.7k

Reputation

  1. I'd say it's rather difficult for a person to look up a reference to something that they don't actually think exists. In any disagreement the onus is generally on the person who stated there was such a reference to show that it exists. If they can't or won't then their argument is lost by default.
  2. I wasn't talking about overheating of the PRV, I said that the PRV was generally used to prevent overpressurisation of the calorifier. In which case assuming that's a strainer on the left of your pump it's on the wrong side. A strainer is used to protect the pump from debris coming from the tank. I think the thing to do is try to understand how it works. Others here may know but it looks like an odd installation to me. The other thing that's wrong are the "hard" connections to the pump. Final connections to the inlet and outlet side of the pump should have been made with short lengths of hose to accommodate the vibration rather than rigid plastic pipe. Whichever builder did that installation did it wrong so there's your starter for 10.
  3. Yes I don't understand why. The PRV is generally fitted to a calorifier or within the hot water side of the system. See the diagram I just attached to my previous post.
  4. I don't understand how your water pump has been installed. It looks like you have a PRV on the water feed to the pump? Usually they're located on top of the hot water calorifier as a safety feature so it doesn't overpressurise. Have a look at this diagram to see a typical boat plumbing installation.
  5. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  6. Probably, I'll lift it to check. As I said, it's not the normal smell of the agent that you normally get when a bottle is running out, but perhaps it's a component of that which has separated out?
  7. I've recently been noticing a noxious smell when the gas hob is lit. It's not the gas smell you get when the bottle is running out, it smells like plastic or chemicals are being burned. I checked under the hob flame spreaders in case something was burning and they're clean so I switched over to the second gas bottle and there's no smell. So it seems like there's some substance in the bottle that's getting into the regulator and releasing a nasty smell when burned. Does anyone know what it could be?
  8. I had a Parmax 3.5 on my boat for about 12 years before changing it to a higher pressure version of the same pump about a year ago in order to run a gas water heater properly. Before that I had a Shure flow which started leaking after about 4 years. Both pumps liveaboard use. I've never had an external pressure switch because I've never had a problem with internal microswitch failure, so if you can get a replacement microswitch cheaply that's what I'd do.
  9. Ok, but there were only a few hours between my suggestion and your reply so I'm not sure how you knew he wasn't going to do it? Anyway, you seem to have been proved right.
  10. I suggested that in the first reply and in the next reply you said "Comments that probably won't help." I'm not sure if you were talking about my reply or your own?
  11. Is the separation required because of the risk of chafing or induction of current from one to the other - or both? I have some 12v & 240v cables which cross paths where I installed the 12v cables, but they are well protected, and a couple of places where they run alongside each other for about 4ft, but I put the 12v cables inside aluminium conduit. My boat is 19 years old and fitted out and examined to BSS standards. My mains consumer unit box with selector switch also has some 12v cables inside for the diesel heater control. That was done by the builder so I'm not sure where else they may not have separated cables. I guess if it hasn't self-destructed after all this time then it's fine. Running mains or 12v cables under the gunwales is also an option. Sometimes having sockets higher is actually more convenient and you could always get them with a gold or silver decorative finish instead of white if that looks better. Or have the 12v cables at gunwale height.
  12. Sounds potentially dangerous, especially if your legs happened to go under it as it snapped.
  13. How did they manage to vandalise a balance beam to render it inoperable? Does a gang of youths jump up and down on the end until it breaks? Maybe they should make them out of steel like they do on the Warks Avon.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.