LEAK! (plumbing)

[Charlotte Burnett]

For those of you that get pipes....I've got a list going on (again) and I know what it is (again) and I'm really over the problem.

 

My bath trap has come off. I know this because the bilge pump I installed last year runs when the shower is on, in addition to the whale gulper that is meant to drain the trap. It's a standard 1.5" plastic screw up one that then attaches to 3/4" flexihose. Every year this happens at about this time. I'm not sure why a drop in temperature causes this. Last year I stuffed half a gun of mastic in and installed a bilge pump to help minimise the list.

 

Accessibility is horrendous, I'll have to post myself, upside down, through a 10" gap with someone hanging onto my legs to pull me out. Can someone recommend a trap that doesn't come undone? I'll replace the waste if necessary. I'll pay about anything for it to never have to do this again. Is there a 1 piece standard waste -3/4" barb available? In neverleakagainium?

 

Thanks

[BlueStringPudding]

In neverleakagainium?

 

 

 

That phrase has made my day

[kevinl]

I'll have to post myself, upside down, through a 10" gap with someone hanging onto my legs to pull me out.

 

If I ever wondered what it was like being born that must be the nearest thing I've ever read to describing it

As for the leak forget mastic and use glue, the type that melts the plastic and welds it together then if you want drill a small hole and screw it with a self tapper then some gaffer tape over that and the obvious thing a bit of wood or whatever to support the pipe so it can't drop down again or any combination of these.

Any chance of you posting a picture of you doing it, sounds unmissable

K

Edited November 20, 2013 by kevinl

[MtB]

Is there a 1 piece standard waste -3/4" barb available?

Yes. Seriously, there is! B&Q sell them. About £2.95.

 

 

In neverleakagainium?

 

Thanks

Oh bugger. Polythene. I've let you down after all....

 

Boys, eh?

 

MtB

[MtB]

Hmm the B&Q site doesn't list it as a standalone item but they list it as part of an "appliance trap adaptor".

 

The big nut holding the hose spur in place is 1½" BSP and will screw directly onto a shower or bath waste fitting. I know this as I used one on REGINALD's shower.

 

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing-central-heating/waste-overflows/FloPlast-Appliance-Trap-Adaptor-40mm-12389294

 

MtB

[PaddingtonBear]

You have got a shower on Reg? pretty poor show

[MtB]

You have got a shower on Reg? pretty poor show

 

Yes but I have no idea whether it works. I had to do something with all that cabin space! Reg has a cooker too. AND (horror of horrors) a small fridge...

 

I've wrecked my reputation now haven't I?

 

 

MtB

[DeanS]

Do you really need "traps" on boats. If pipes run to the pump and out the boat, that should be it? Basins etc can just run straight out? My basin trap has gotten blocked from overzealous use of toothpaste by kids who put more into the basin than on the brush.

[Beaker]

Do you really need "traps" on boats. If pipes run to the pump and out the boat, that should be it? Basins etc can just run straight out? My basin trap has gotten blocked from overzealous use of toothpaste by kids who put more into the basin than on the brush.

 

You're probably right, the main function of a trap full of water is to stop any nasty smells drifting up from the drain/sewer; a boat isn't connected to either.

 

ETA As Mike just mentioned, a trap will stop draughts and unwelcome insect ingression.

Edited November 20, 2013 by Beaker

[MtB]

Do you really need "traps" on boats. If pipes run to the pump and out the boat, that should be it? Basins etc can just run straight out? My basin trap has gotten blocked from overzealous use of toothpaste by kids who put more into the basin than on the brush.

 

No you don't need traps, but what did you use Dean to get that initial connection onto a bath or basin waste fitting when you fitted out your boat?

 

The fitting I listed from B&Q will get onto a bath, shower or galley sink waste, but how did you connect onto (smaller) basin wastes?

 

One reason to use a trap on a basin or galley sink is to stop cold air and spiders getting in.

 

 

MtB

[trackman]

Traps are a waste of time (sorry!). Spiders and draughts get into boats anyway.

It sounds to me as if the problem is that the trap has never been in place properly from the outset. If it had been it wouldn't have needed any sealant and wouldn't fall off. I speak from bitter experience of my daughters bath waste!

The O ring seals in cheap traps shift out of place incredibly easily as you fit them and the the thing leaks. The real answer is to take it apart if it leaks and try again. This is a real pain when they are nigh on inaccessible, I know only too well.

A better quality trap or connector would help, probably a metal one if available.

[OldGoat]

On my shower bath, I used a shallow P trap like this one:-

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-bath-trap-40mm-white/84362?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=75548

 

I then got a reducing connector - couldn't see one on Screwfix - to fit a bilge pump.

[DeanS]

The issue often is that people try and buy the fittings from home diy places, instead of chandlers. I'm guilty of that. What you really need is those fittings that screw into the basin hole, but have a nozzle/pipe clamp fitting and 19mm piping going out through a hull fitting. For a basin that's ok, and for a shower with a outlet pump, thats ok too. Not sure about a bath though....thats a lot more water, so it would drain a lot slower perhaps, although it shouldnt if it's pumped out? . Often people do use normal traps etc on kitchen sinks....because you need the wider pipes to accommodate all the foodstuff that often goes down it. ...but I still wouldnt use a trap if possible.....

 

first I've heard of wind and spiders being the reason for using traps......spiders will get in through roof vents anyway, and the wind would have to hit the hull hole dead on to travel all the way up the pipe Anyway..you can just put a plug in..lol.

[Ex- Member]

The issue often is that people try and buy the fittings from home diy places, instead of chandlers. I'm guilty of that. What you really need is those fittings that screw into the basin hole, but have a nozzle/pipe clamp fitting and 19mm piping going out through a hull fitting. For a basin that's ok, and for a shower with a outlet pump, thats ok too. Not sure about a bath though....thats a lot more water, so it would drain a lot slower perhaps, although it shouldnt if it's pumped out? . Often people do use normal traps etc on kitchen sinks....because you need the wider pipes to accommodate all the foodstuff that often goes down it. ...but I still wouldnt use a trap if possible.....

 

first I've heard of wind and spiders being the reason for using traps......spiders will get in through roof vents anyway, and the wind would have to hit the hull hole dead on to travel all the way up the pipe Anyway..you can just put a plug in..lol.

 

But the missus don't like spiders in the sinks Not only spiders we had all sorts before putting traps in.

 

The other reason I have used them is simply because they're easy to access, easier than fiddling with old corroded jubilee clips to access any pipe for unblocking/rodding. Also on our kitchen sink originally the exit pipe did smell as kitchen food scraps & grease cling to the rubber hose and ends up smelling. So for the sake of a couple of quid, the easy access alone is worth it.

 

I'll also add, that where our utility sink is, we plumb the washing machine into that trap with a proper connector tail, rather than drilling another hole through the boat for a skin fitting.

[DeanS]

In the bathroom I plumbed the washing machine into the same outlet skin fitting as the basin, but just raised the washer pipe in a loop a little higher than the basin outlet, to prevent basin water making it's way into the washer. Seems to work well.

[MtB]

A better quality trap or connector would help, probably a metal one if available.

 

Well yes, this is what the OP was asking for!

 

Got any candidates to suggest?

 

 

MtB

[Ex- Member]

In the bathroom I plumbed the washing machine into the same outlet skin fitting as the basin, but just raised the washer pipe in a loop a little higher than the basin outlet, to prevent basin water making it's way into the washer. Seems to work well.

 

Hi Dean

 

I'm surprised you can't smell the washing machine waste, although not all machines are that smelly, some really stink bad though.

 

Of course the way you mention will work fine, but you must have a T junction somewhere to do this, so potential for blockage, I would also guess there are jubilee clips clamping it together which are never easy to undo and then having to pull usually gunked up rubber pipe from T connectors.

 

I can remove washing machine hose in seconds, and remove bottle trap and rod the outlet pipe easily from inside the boat. It just so happens the bottle trap came free with the utility room sink anyway, so it cost me nothing either.

 

Another thing I've noticed, the 2 recent semi blockages we've had were not due or as I could see caused by the bottle trap it's self, as on removal they were pretty clean, but where it tapers to the outlet hose grease tends to builds up here and attract other crud.

[bizzard]

The important thing as far as waste blockages are concerned is to keep it simple and make sure you have no internal steps in the fittings that face the outgoing waste water flow as muck will continually build up on any facing ridges or steps and keep block it. Keep em smooth and streamlined internally all the way to the outlet hole in the hull side.

Edited November 20, 2013 by bizzard

[Captain Fizz]

Probably the finest quality of traps and waste fittings are those made by McAlpine.

Available from most "proper" plumbers merchants.

[smileypete]

 

Well yes, this is what the OP was asking for!

 

Got any candidates to suggest?

 

 

MtB

 

A good way of connecting a standard shower trap to gulper is with a solvent weld stepped hose tail:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=stepped+hose+tail+solvent+weld&_sop=15

 

 

They have a 40mm dia end which fits perfectly into a standard shower trap with 40mm compression outlet, they don't have to be solvent welded. The other end is just shortened to whatever dia hose tail you need.

 

As others say, the seal between shower trap and tray can be a problem, some jointing compound like Fernox LS-X can be a good belt 'n' braces measure.

 

A good question to put to sellers of new and recent £££££ boats would be: 'How do I access the shower plumbing in 30 seconds in case of a blockage?'

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited November 20, 2013 by smileypete

[Charlotte Burnett]

Right, I've got a new piece of plastic like the one Mike posted but without the T (when I read this on my phone, I didn't get a link!) but I'm now complaining of everything under the sun in order to avoid touching it today! Perhaps one for Sunday now :-/

[MtB]

Right, I've got a new piece of plastic like the one Mike posted but without the T (when I read this on my phone, I didn't get a link!) but I'm now complaining of everything under the sun in order to avoid touching it today! Perhaps one for Sunday now :-/

 

Sunday is one of those times to do jobs like this that seems initially attractive but remember, when it all goes to the wall, the plumbers' merchants are all closed so you can't go out and buy the bits you didn't think you'd need....

 

 

MtB

[Beaker]

 

Sunday is one of those times to do jobs like this that seems initially attractive but remember, when it all goes to the wall, the plumbers' merchants are all closed so you can't go out and buy the bits you didn't think you'd need....

 

 

MtB

 

B&Q's open!

[Captain Fizz]

But mike said "plumbers merchants"

[Beaker]

He also said they weren't open on Sundays!