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Hi guys can any one recomend any spray foam company’s between London and Braunston? (on the union) Id like my engine room looking at. Details- 50ft trad stern, Bmc 2.2 raw water cooled. Situated at the Stern of the boat. Only needed between the gunnel down to the deck boards as the upper is pine t and g . Av added some images to help illustrate. Thanks in advance 

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54D94DA5-42A7-44A5-A84E-A5AE8C1052D4.jpeg

Edited by Darrenroberts
Added pictures

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Have you considered using Celotex/Kingspan? You can stick it on and seal any gaps with fire-rared aerosol expanding foam. Best to invest in a foam gun and use gun-grade foam. Considerably cheaper than getting it sprayed. 

  • Greenie 1

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I don't know any yard that do spray foam,I think they contract it out, I would go with the advice above

 

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I'm not sure if I'd bother, in fact I wouldn't, it won't make any real difference to keeping things warm and it will get dirty and horrible and be a sod to paint. Being a nervous type when oil and diesel and heat are close together I wrapped my foam sprayed calorifier with a thin steel jacket as it was only a couple of feet from the engine  (if you drill out the pop riveted seam and unroll it the inner side says 'Diversion ahead' in black and yellow but don't tell anybody)

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28 minutes ago, stegra said:

Have you considered using Celotex/Kingspan? You can stick it on and seal any gaps with fire-rared aerosol expanding foam. Best to invest in a foam gun and use gun-grade foam. Considerably cheaper than getting it sprayed. 

It’s all the little gaps round the Diesel tanks that I’m worried aboutDiesel tanks that I’m worried about I don’t think I could get a good deal with Celotex?? 

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26 minutes ago, Darrenroberts said:

It’s all the little gaps round the Diesel tanks that I’m worried aboutDiesel tanks that I’m worried about I don’t think I could get a good deal with Celotex?? 

It will be fine with Celotex or the likes and cans of expanding foam. What you could try is line it out with 4mm or 6mm ply but behind use the celotex, and leave a few winches around the celotx and then drill holes in the ply around the egdes and pump foam into the cavity to give a fully seald area behind the board. 

 

I would not leave foam bare.

Edited by W+T

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31 minutes ago, Darrenroberts said:

It’s all the little gaps round the Diesel tanks that I’m worried aboutDiesel tanks that I’m worried about I don’t think I could get a good deal [seal]  with Celotex?? 

Assuming you mean seal, that's where the aerosol foam comes in. The gun-grade foam is very controllable, from a couple of millimetres to several inches width achievable in a single pass. 

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4 minutes ago, stegra said:

Assuming you mean seal, that's where the aerosol foam comes in. The gun-grade foam is very controllable, from a couple of millimetres to several inches width achievable in a single pass. 

Ok I’ll defiantly look into it as Ian been quoted £1200 so far for a tiny area in comparison to a whole boat but I gues it’s a two person job and then there’s the equipment so.....might be a diy effort 

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1 hour ago, stegra said:

Have you considered using Celotex/Kingspan? You can stick it on and seal any gaps with fire-rared aerosol expanding foam. Best to invest in a foam gun and use gun-grade foam. Considerably cheaper than getting it sprayed. 

It is not only cheaper (if you do it yourself) but it is better insulation long term than sprayfoam, as it has the two layers of foil as well as the foam. 

 

It is fiddly and time consuming to do it right, but can be done a bit at a time. 

 

Trim the gap filling foam back if it bulges, and for a great job cover the joints with foil tape. 

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I’ll defiantly be buttoning and playing out the engine room btw. It’s just been bare this winter and the condensation was terrible so I wanted to insulate the best I could before doing the panel work. I annoy to consernd about holding the heat in as my rear bulk head partition is insulated and the cabin stays walk enough.

3 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

It is not only cheaper (if you do it yourself) but it is better insulation long term than sprayfoam, as it has the two layers of foil as well as the foam. 

 

It is fiddly and time consuming to do it right, but can be done a bit at a time. 

 

Trim the gap filling foam back if it bulges, and for a great job cover the joints with foil tape. 

 

Thanks for the advice all. Dose any one have any photos of engine rooms similar to mine once fitted out? 

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You can get spray foam kits if you want to go that way. They're relatively easy to use as long as you follow the instructions; especially with regards to temperature and keeping the bottles upright. Still a lot more expensive than Celotex for equal thickness though. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Foamseal-200-2-part-Polyurethane-Spray-Foam-DIY-Insulation-/292351680935

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Not an engine room but I did the whole boat with Celotex. Saved over £2k on the spray foam quote and it's mostly 50mm thick. 

 

IMG_20180619_173515.jpg

IMG_20180619_173557.jpg

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49 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

Remember that sprayfoam has to be protected from the UV in sunshine.

Cheers I didn’t know that. I’ll bear in mind when I am applying it should be ok there’s only two small port holes in the engine room and it’s all below the gunnel so I should be ok. 

1 hour ago, stegra said:

Not an engine room but I did the whole boat with Celotex. Saved over £2k on the spray foam quote and it's mostly 50mm thick. 

 

IMG_20180619_173515.jpg

IMG_20180619_173557.jpg

Thanks for the pictures did u use a bit of spray foam to stick the celotex t the steel 

Edited by Darrenroberts

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24 minutes ago, Darrenroberts said:

 

Thanks for the pictures did u use a bit of spray foam to stick the celotex t the steel 

I used two pack PU foam on the roof for speed but gun-grade aerosol on the sides. The two pack sets very quickly so I just mixed a little at a time in plastic pint cups. It expands like crazy so you don't need much when you mix it. In your case I would just use the aerosols. 

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