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Sqirrel Stove Fitting


Sapphal

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Hi all.

This is my first post on the forum, although I have been avidly browsing for a whie.  It's a good balance between good practical advice and some very witty humour.

To get to the point, I bought a 56' NB in November this year and have decided to fit a Morso squirrel 1410.  i am trying to install to the guidelines in the Sliftec document https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjvsaeegJbYAhWMaFAKHZMzDmIQjBAILzAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.soliftec.com%2FBoat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3lL3VSFbJtXoT8qzXs8wyr

The document states that the stove needs to have the stove fixed to the hearth.  The legs on the stove do not have any fixing points.  Any pointers as to how to fix the stove will be much appreciated - would a chain bolted to the stove and to an anchor point on the hearth be sufficient (possibly two)?

There is also a vent for the cold water tank which will be behind the stove.  I am going to put 25mm Cal-sil board behind the stove.  Can I just cut a square hole in the Cal-sil and scre the vent cover onto the cal-sil board.  If I block off the vent then i fear I will get more condensation on the cold water tank.  Any thoughts appreciated.

TIA

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Our Squirrel is bolted down using the leg fastening bolts and a fabricated bracket fastened to the hearth.

Others do it by putting angle pieces inside each leg and fastening these to the leg on one face and the hearth on another.

Depends what the tank vent is made of and what is behind the board. If the vent cover is metal and there is no flammable or pyrolisable stuff within a couple of inches of the hole then you should be OK provided the air space round the stove is as required. The key question is "Where can the heat get to and what can it damage?"

N

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BEngo

Thanks for the advice.  The fabricated bracket inside the leg seems a good idea.  Would you put one on each leg?

The vent grill is metal and will be fitted to the 25mm cal-sil with a 10mm air gap.  i am actually seeing this as a bonus in that it will pull a lot of the condensation out of the cold water tank area.

Just now, bizzard said:

Easy to drill the cast iron feet on the stove for brackets, only DON'T centre  punch them for a drill bit starter  it might crack them,  just stick bits of masking tape on to stop drill bit skidding.

More good advice.

Thanks

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I got some threaded rod the same thread size as the leg bolts. Drilled a hole in the hearth. Bolted the feet on using the existing nut. Put the stove on the hearth with the threaded rod extending through and bolted the lot down. From the outside it can't be seen.

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Our Squirrel is bolted down using the leg fastening bolts and a fabricated bracket fastened to the hearth.

Others do it by putting angle pieces inside each leg and fastening these to the leg on one face and the hearth on another.

 

You used to be able to buy angle pieces shaped and drilled ready to bolt inside the Morso legs. Got mine from Midland Swindlers, but they don't seem to stock them any more. Not a huge loss as they were very expensive for what they were.

The stove needs to be fixed for the Boat Safety Scheme so that a bump in a lock, or whatever isn't going to knock it over and spill hot coals all over the place. Sensible really.

Jen

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1 hour ago, Sapphal said:

BEngo

Thanks for the advice.  The fabricated bracket inside the leg seems a good idea.  Would you put one on each leg?

The vent grill is metal and will be fitted to the 25mm cal-sil with a 10mm air gap.  i am actually seeing this as a bonus in that it will pull a lot of the condensation out of the cold water tank area.

More good advice.

Thanks

Our bracket is a cross which the leg bolts pass through,  welded to a vertical post with two lugs at the bottom (pointing out between the arms of the  cross to improve access)  which bolt to the hearth.  I think this is  way OTT for what is needed and that two legs fastened down would be enough.  One would not be enough though as the stove could pivot about that single fastening.

Paringa's solution also looks good and two bits of studding would be enough for that.

N

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On 19/12/2017 at 12:03, Sapphal said:

Hi all.

This is my first post on the forum, although I have been avidly browsing for a whie.  It's a good balance between good practical advice and some very witty humour.

To get to the point, I bought a 56' NB in November this year and have decided to fit a Morso squirrel 1410.  i am trying to install to the guidelines in the Sliftec document https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjvsaeegJbYAhWMaFAKHZMzDmIQjBAILzAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.soliftec.com%2FBoat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3lL3VSFbJtXoT8qzXs8wyr

The document states that the stove needs to have the stove fixed to the hearth.  The legs on the stove do not have any fixing points.  Any pointers as to how to fix the stove will be much appreciated - would a chain bolted to the stove and to an anchor point on the hearth be sufficient (possibly two)?

There is also a vent for the cold water tank which will be behind the stove.  I am going to put 25mm Cal-sil board behind the stove.  Can I just cut a square hole in the Cal-sil and scre the vent cover onto the cal-sil board.  If I block off the vent then i fear I will get more condensation on the cold water tank.  Any thoughts appreciated.

TIA

If possible it would be worth lagging your water tank to avoid condensation and to give a small amount of frost protection. 

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15 hours ago, BWM said:

If possible it would be worth lagging your water tank to avoid condensation and to give a small amount of frost protection. 

Yes, I intend to do that.  The surveyor discovered quite a lot of condensation in the cold water tank area.

thanks for all the advice.

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