Eberspacher

[carlt]

I like the word bint and use it as often in conversation as appropriate!

 

As for "astro", I was a member of the Royal Observatory astronomy society in Greenwich for some time (Flamsteed Society) and the Astronomer Royal of Scotland is a good drinking pal of mine! Random, but true.

You're still clanger grub!

[BlueStringPudding]

She's Clanger food, the space connections are obvious.

 

 

Did the poor guy get his leg stripes sorted btw?

 

Leg stripes...? Who's the zedonk?

 

You're still clanger grub!

 

True, true

[carlt]

Leg stripes...? Who's the zedonk?

I had a sneaky look at your feedback. Completely unblemished, apart from what will be henceforth known as 'the leg stripe incident'.

[anhar]

I like the word bint and use it as often in conversation as appropriate!

Hello Lisa

 

"Bint" was originally British Army slang for a woman but in a very derogatory sense. It escaped from army slang into the general vernacular a long while and came into use as argot by ordinary blokes, though it hasn't been current for many years. At the time it was popular, you wouldn't call a nice girl a "bint", more a sort of vinegar-on-chips, white stilletoes, rather ignorant lady.

 

It comes from the Arabic for daughter, not derogatory at all in that language, and was I would guess adopted, and altered in meaning, by Brit soldiers serving in the Middle East.

 

regards

Steve

[SoggyMoggies]

Pity it's already sold. We're looking for a timer for ours as well.

The same seller has something similar here. Hope that's what you're looking for

[David]

That's the pull start switch the timer programer is £121.00!

 

That's for the 7 day timer version there is a simpler one also available but strangely that one isn't listed in the price list.

 

But look HERE and don't tell anyone I found it!

 

Thats the one we have and it works fine or has done for the last two years, it can be set to come on at two different times per day (or just once) but thats every day. We just press the on button when we want it and either let it run for the default 60 min's or use the up/down buttons to set the run time when we turn it on or use the override to set to run til the stop button pressed.

Easy pessy

david

[Hekaterine]

Thanks for posting the link, SoggyMoggies. Looks like just what we need. Glad it seems easy to use as well David.

 

Karen and Keith

[BlueStringPudding]

I had a sneaky look at your feedback. Completely unblemished, apart from what will be henceforth known as 'the leg stripe incident'.

 

Oh yes - hahahah! Of course. That was a nice suit too. Never heard back from the evil criticiser, neither. You'll notice everything I've sold in the last 3 months has been to clear out the flat ready to move onto the boat. Just clearing the last bits we're keeping this week, and we've STILL too much stuff. Gonna have to do another blitz, I think.

[BlueStringPudding]

Hello Lisa

 

"Bint" was originally British Army slang for a woman but in a very derogatory sense. It escaped from army slang into the general vernacular a long while and came into use as argot by ordinary blokes, though it hasn't been current for many years. At the time it was popular, you wouldn't call a nice girl a "bint", more a sort of vinegar-on-chips, white stilletoes, rather ignorant lady.

 

It comes from the Arabic for daughter, not derogatory at all in that language, and was I would guess adopted, and altered in meaning, by Brit soldiers serving in the Middle East.

 

regards

Steve

 

Good factoid - I didn't know that.

[BlueStringPudding]

As an update of sorts, the Eberspacher switch doesn't respond at all now (bloomin thing!). But the timer I bought arrived on Friday and a chap at Kate Boats thinks he'll be able to wire it in for us on Wednesday morning. Hoorah!

 

We're yet to get the radiators working at all, (at least from the calorifier) so it'd be good to try them out with the Eberspacher. Tried bleeding them. One bled fine, The rest gurgled, some air came out, then nothing, no water, nowt. One has a different socket thing on it so the radiator key doesn't fit it! I can only assume it must have been replaced at some point in the past. And they certainly don't get at all warm from the calorifier so perhaps only the Eberspacher feeds them? Also I haven't found a pump anywhere, so I'm assuming they must work by convection (or summit like that!?!?!?). Either that or they utilise the main water pump, but we have to turn that off betwix uses due to a leaking tap in the bathroom! (Well spotted engineering company who allegedly searched the bathroom for water leaks before putting the new floor boards in - NOT! ) But the chap at Kate Boats said he'd fix our leaking tap too, so hopefully it'll all come together and we'll have fully functioning radiator and Eberspacher by mid-week!

[cyclic]

As an update of sorts, the Eberspacher switch doesn't respond at all now (bloomin thing!). But the timer I bought arrived on Friday and a chap at Kate Boats thinks he'll be able to wire it in for us on Wednesday morning. Hoorah!

 

We're yet to get the radiators working at all, (at least from the calorifier) so it'd be good to try them out with the Eberspacher. Tried bleeding them. One bled fine, The rest gurgled, some air came out, then nothing, no water, nowt.

 

I think that there will be a header tank (Possibly the size of a lemonade bottle) that has to be part full to keep that Calorifier coil full.

If that coil circuit is short of water, that would explain why you're getting air and gurgles out of the radiator when you bleed it.

 

Does your Calorifier have 2 coils.

If it does, one will be the Eberspacher circuit, and the other will be the Engine circuit

The Eberspacher has a water circulating pump built in to it, so obviously needs to be running for the water to be pumped round the radiators., It heats the cylinder as well for hot tap water

 

Unless the engine coil circuit has been modified all that it will do is heat the calorifier (Like your home cylinder), and thus you'll only

get hot water out out of the taps from it.

I would imagine that that is the norm, otherwise the engine would be overcooled, if the domestic rads were in that circuit.

 

Then, when you get the Eberspacher running and all the radiators, you might find that one rad has to be on ALL the time. (You might have a towel rail which does the same). If that radiator is turned off, the Eberspacher will turn itself off because it thinks that the water is getting too hot.

 

I'm talking about how my system works, and of course yours might be configured differently, but at least you will have some more ideas, if things don't work as they should.

Edited July 9, 2007 by cyclic

[Scotty]

I think that there will be a header tank (Possibly the size of a lemonade bottle) that has to be part full to keep that Calorifier coil full.

If that coil circuit is short of water, that would explain why you're getting air and gurgles out of the radiator when you bleed it.

Agreed, there surely must be a header tank.

Bear in mind it will be higher than the rads and hidden in a cupboard somewhere out of sight,

it most probably needs filling up if you're not getting water out of the rads.

 

 

PS. i know you've got the timer now, but i saw some push/pull switches at Midland's the other day

 

http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/ELECTRIC...CHES_B288E.aspx

[BlueStringPudding]

Thanks – that’s great advice, Chris. The confusion about the radiators has come about because we were told that the hot water and heating came from both the calorifier and the Eberspacher. That’s obviously not the case, and your explanation makes much more sense from what we’re seeing.

 

I don’t know whether the calorifier has two coils or not. I know the Eberspacher doesn’t have a header tank but is fed directly from the main water supply because the engineer who serviced it was a little surprised by that himself. As for the calorifier’s header tank… not sure where that is! (I’m a lot of use, aren’t I!? ) I’ll have a delve around in the engine compartment when I get back from w*rk, because I know there’s nothing like a lemonade bottle near the calorifier hot water tank itself.

 

If I find it, would I need to top it up with water?

[Scotty]

I know the Eberspacher doesn’t have a header tank but is fed directly from the main water supply because the engineer who serviced it was a little surprised by that himself. As for the calorifier’s header tank… not sure where that is! (I’m a lot of use, aren’t I!? )

That sounds odd, it should be a closed system (hence the header tank as a way of topping up)

Heater > Calorifier > Radiators > Header > and back to the Heater

 

[BlueStringPudding]

That sounds odd, it should be a closed system (hence the header tank as a way of topping up)

Heater > Calorifier > Radiators > Header > and back to the Heater

 

 

Can "Hydronic" on this diagram be interpretted as "Eberspacher" in our situation, or is it something entirely different? I wonder where this bloomin' header tank is then... is it likely to be vertically above the calorifier hot water tank (eg. uses gravity) or can it be below it? I only ask as there are a couple of airing cupboard type shelves and nowt else above the hot water tank. Which is why it might be down in the engine area?

[cyclic]

Thanks – that’s great advice, Chris. The confusion about the radiators has come about because we were told that the hot water and heating came from both the calorifier and the Eberspacher. That’s obviously not the case, and your explanation makes much more sense from what we’re seeing.

 

I don’t know whether the calorifier has two coils or not. I know the Eberspacher doesn’t have a header tank but is fed directly from the main water supply because the engineer who serviced it was a little surprised by that himself. As for the calorifier’s header tank… not sure where that is! (I’m a lot of use, aren’t I!? ) I’ll have a delve around in the engine compartment when I get back from w*rk, because I know there’s nothing like a lemonade bottle near the calorifier hot water tank itself.

 

If I find it, would I need to top it up with water?

 

You need to think of the system as 3 or 4 components.

 

The Calorifier is the collective name for the Hot water cylinder and its components which are;

1.The cylinder, which contains lots of gallons of water and is supplied by your boat cold water tank through the boat pump (which is why your leaking tap was the cause of the boat pump being activated)

Into the Cylinder is

2. a pipework coil (Literally a coil of pipe in the cylinder, through which heated water flows, tranfering heat to the main body of water surrounding it) This is a completely separate and closed circuit, which is heated by the Eberspacher. The radiators are part of this circuit.

this circuit needs a supply, usually by a header tank, to keep it full.

If your calorifier is a twin coil version, then

3. Another coil into the cylinder, but this is part of the main engine cooling circuit, so is supplied by the engine coolant, and heated by the engine to do the job. This is a separate circuit again, which is kept full when you add "Water to your engine". The pump for this circuit is the "Water pump" as in engine terms.

 

As for topping up the Eberspacher circuit, yes. It needs to be full or the heater will not run because it will overheat almost as soon as you turn it on, and it's safety mode will switch it off.

 

So find out how the Eberspacher circuit is supplied. If it's a header tank. generally keep it no more than half full to allow for expansion when the water gets hot. You would also add anti freeze to the circuit via the header tank.

If it's by the boat pump, then as soon as you bleed a rad, you would hear the pump going. So it needs to be switched on to accomplish the bleeding.

 

Sorry if I've been basic with the explanation. If you know it already then nothing's lost.

 

OOps. Double talk with Scotty. I'll let him answer your last

Edited July 9, 2007 by cyclic

[BlueStringPudding]

Although experience of said engineering company suggests they might not have known their proverbial posteriors from their ginglymus humeroulnar!

 

Sorry if I've been basic with the explanation. If you know it already then nothing's lost.

 

Trust me, basic is EXACTLY what I need! So we need to get the tap fixed first, in order to allow the main water pump to be left on when using the radiators then????

 

Sorry to be dimmer than a f*rt in a fog...

[NB Phoenix]

Although experience of said engineering company suggests they might not have known their proverbial posteriors from their ginglymus humeroulnar!

Trust me, basic is EXACTLY what I need! So we need to get the tap fixed first, in order to allow the main water pump to be left on when using the radiators then????

 

Sorry to be dimmer than a f*rt in a fog...

 

Is your boat an ex Black Prince boat?

 

What type is it. i.e. trad, semi-trad, cruiser?

 

I shall be up at Napton on Wednesday and could ask at the Black Prince Marina at Wigrams Turn if they have a standard layout for the heating on their boats and where you may find the header tank.

[BlueStringPudding]

Is your boat an ex Black Prince boat?

 

What type is it. i.e. trad, semi-trad, cruiser?

 

I shall be up at Napton on Wednesday and could ask at the Black Prince Marina at Wigrams Turn if they have a standard layout for the heating on their boats and where you may find the header tank.

 

Ah - brilliant. Yes, thanks. It's a 1998 ex-hire Black Prince cruiser stern, 65ft (with four radiators)

 

That'd be marvellous - thank you!!!

[cyclic]

Although experience of said engineering company suggests they might not have known their proverbial posteriors from their ginglymus humeroulnar!

Trust me, basic is EXACTLY what I need! So we need to get the tap fixed first, in order to allow the main water pump to be left on when using the radiators then????

 

Sorry to be dimmer than a f*rt in a fog...

Yep. IF the circuit is being fed by the pump.

 

Is ginglymus humeroulnar another word for Elbow? Now I'm lost

[BlueStringPudding]

Is ginglymus humeroulnar another word for Elbow? Now I'm lost

 

 

Yup - "Ginglymus" is one of may favourite words and basically means hinge or hinged joint. Humeroulnar is the part of the joint involving the humerus (funny bone) and the ulna (one of the forearm bones)... elbow. Why use two syllables when you can use eight, I say!!!

[Scotty]

Can "Hydronic" on this diagram be interpretted as "Eberspacher" in our situation, or is it something entirely different?

Yep exactly, i'm probably going to buy a EBERSPACHER HYDRONIC D5W myself linky

 

I wonder where this bloomin' header tank is then... is it likely to be vertically above the calorifier hot water tank (eg. uses gravity) or can it be below it? I only ask as there are a couple of airing cupboard type shelves and nowt else above the hot water tank. Which is why it might be down in the engine area?

The header needs to be at the highest point in the heating system, and if / when you find it don't fill it completely, leave room for it to expand when hot.

It will need to be topped up to replace any air removed from the system from bleeding the rads.

 

I wonder if you have a 'filling loop' as you might find in household plumbing,

that might explain how it's fed from the main supply and you can't find a header?

[cyclic]

Yup - "Ginglymus" is one of may favourite words and basically means hinge or hinged joint. Humeroulnar is the part of the joint involving the humerus (funny bone) and the ulna (one of the forearm bones)... elbow. Why use two syllables when you can use eight, I say!!!

 

You'll be interesting to talk to after a few beers then.

[BlueStringPudding]

I wonder if you have a 'filling loop' as you might find in household plumbing,

that might explain how it's fed from the main supply and you can't find a header?

 

Okay - so I've just Googled "Filling Loop" and seen one of these:

 

 

and read up on it.

 

Now I know this is for a household boiler, but I'll go looking for one of these as well as a header tank this evening!!!

 

You'll be interesting to talk to after a few beers then.

 

I can't even pronounce "syllable" after a few beers!!!

 

Oh, incidentally, we still get quite a lot of air in the hot water taps from time to time. It'll run fine for a couple of days, then splurge us by spitting everywhere... related to the air in the radiators, perhaps?

Edited July 9, 2007 by BlueStringPudding

[Scotty]

Google is our friend

Have a look for a model number on your Eberspacher

They might have the operating instructions for download