Eberspacher

[NB Phoenix]

Oh, incidentally, we still get quite a lot of air in the hot water taps from time to time. It'll run fine for a couple of days, then splurge us by spitting everywhere... related to the air in the radiators, perhaps?

 

I would certainly hope not. They should be completely separate.

 

When you bleed the first rad what color was the water that came out?

[bottle]

Oh, incidentally, we still get quite a lot of air in the hot water taps from time to time. It'll run fine for a couple of days, then splurge us by spitting everywhere... related to the air in the radiators, perhaps?

 

Should not be, the water from the taps must be completely separate, do not want to drink radiator water.

 

Edit: Snap

Edited July 9, 2007 by bottle

[BlueStringPudding]

I would certainly hope not. They should be completely separate.

 

When you bleed the first rad what color was the water that came out?

 

Completely clear.

 

Google is our friend

Have a look for a model number on your Eberspacher

They might have the operating instructions for download

 

Good plan, Scotty! Will do that too since I'm delving bilgeside tonight...

[g8zpd]

If your system is the same as our ex-bp 1998 62ft boat, then the header tank is behind the wiring panel. (the panel with the coat hooks on, to the right as you enter the boat from the back).

 

HTH.

 

Paul.

NB Bristol - based at wigrams as well.

[BlueStringPudding]

If your system is the same as our ex-bp 1998 62ft boat, then the header tank is behind the wiring panel. (the panel with the coat hooks on, to the right as you enter the boat from the back).

 

HTH.

 

Paul.

NB Bristol - based at wigrams as well.

 

Aha!!!!!! Now that would make sense, as I spent ages scampering around with a torch yesterday and saw nothing header-tank-ish nor filling pipish!!! I'll take all the coats off there tonight and see if I can unscrew the coathook panel.

 

So shall I half-fill the header tank then, chaps?

[cyclic]

Aha!!!!!! Now that would make sense, as I spent ages scampering around with a torch yesterday and saw nothing header-tank-ish nor filling pipish!!! I'll take all the coats off there tonight and see if I can unscrew the coathook panel.

 

So shall I half-fill the header tank then, chaps?

That's a good plan. Be aware that when the Eberspacher starts, any air in the system gets heated, and will expand more than the water, and has to go somewhere------ That will be out of the header tank, so DO NOT overfill it, or you'll be mopping up for a week.

Be methodical with the bleeding of the rads, topping up the header when the level drops, which it will when you bleed the radiators

 

Hope you find it

 

P.S. trying to keep it simple and not talking about automatic bleed valves, which although you are unlikely to have in the system, might be a possibility

[BlueStringPudding]

That's a good plan. Be aware that when the Eberspacher starts, any air in the system gets heated, and will expand more than the water, and has to go somewhere------ That will be out of the header tank, so DO NOT overfill it, or you'll be mopping up for a week.

Be methodical with the bleeding of the rads, topping up the header when the level drops, which it will when you bleed the radiators

 

Hope you find it

 

P.S. trying to keep it simple and not talking about automatic bleed valves, which although you are unlikely to have in the system, might be a possibility

 

Zoicks! Dunno what one of those is, so I'll stick to the simple approach for now. Thanks for your advice though - and everyone - much appreciated.

 

There is still the one radiator we can't bleed because it has a wierd socket unlike the others, but I'll tackle the rest for now.

 

Thanks again everyone - I'll let you know if I conquer them!

[bottle]

Hi Blue string

 

If/when you find the header tank it would be a good idea if two of you could work together one doing the 'bleeding' and one keeping the header at least half full (or half empty if you are a pessimist) that way you will not get more air into the system.

 

You may have to go round the system more than once to eliminate all the air, then get the system running, when it has cooled, go round again.

 

Good luck.

[BlueStringPudding]

Thanks.

 

By the way, I've just thought, if one radiator (the one with the dodgy looking bleed valve socket) can't be bled, will that b*gger up the whole system?

 

Also, if the Eberspacher has a pump in it will it need to be turned on to succesfully blled the radiators? (I only ask because it's switch is currently broken... but to be repaired hopefully Wednesday!)

[bottle]

Hi

 

It would be better if you repaired the radiator first, you can get bleed valves from B&Q, Screwfix etc.

 

I used both methods (pump on, pump off) on my domestic (house) system, I did have a recalcitrant air lock though, I believe the 'correct' way is with the pump OFF

[cyclic]

Thanks.

 

By the way, I've just thought, if one radiator (the one with the dodgy looking bleed valve socket) can't be bled, will that b*gger up the whole system?

You'll be going up to the Experts class soon.

It certainly won't help, but likely as not will just prevent that rad from getting hot

 

Also, if the Eberspacher has a pump in it will it need to be turned on to succesfully blled the radiators? (I only ask because it's switch is currently broken... but to be repaired hopefully Wednesday!)

No. BUT, if the Eberspacher is higher that the rads, you may need to "Blled" the pipework to the heater. Just by loosening the pipe clamp on the inlet and outlet side.

Until you get the Eberspacher going, how will you know if all your effort have been successful?

[BlueStringPudding]

"Blled"

 

The Eberspacher is lower than the radiators. So should be okay. The engineer who serviced it (and admittedly couldn't find the header tank so assumed there wasn't one) bled the Eberspacher for us. So just the rads for me.

 

Thanks again!

[NB Phoenix]

"Blled"

 

The Eberspacher is lower than the radiators. So should be okay. The engineer who serviced it (and admittedly couldn't find the header tank so assumed there wasn't one) bled the Eberspacher for us. So just the rads for me.

 

Thanks again!

 

Are you still in the Warwick area? I will be at Napton Wednesday and Thursday and could come over and try and give you a hand if you wish (Wed eve is best). If that's any help PM me and I will PM back my mobile number to arrange things.

 

Regards

 

John

[BlueStringPudding]

Until you get the Eberspacher going, how will you know if all your effort have been successful?

 

If I can get the header tank and radiators bled tonight, they'll be as good as they can get before the engineer get the timer switch working; and we'll have ignition and lift off by time I get back from work tomorrow! (well, hot radiators anyway)

[Scotty]

Before I forget, I must post this link for our spaghetti tree friend Clanger speak

[BlueStringPudding]

Are you still in the Warwick area? I will be at Napton Wednesday and Thursday and could come over and try and give you a hand if you wish (Wed eve is best). If that's any help PM me and I will PM back my mobile number to arrange things.

 

Regards

 

John

 

Hi John - thanks. Wednesday's gonna be a late one for me at work (gotta see Richard II) so I won't be home till gone midnight. But thanks for the offer. Tell you what - I'll see how my tinkering goes tonight and then I'll let you know if Kev gets it all working tomorrow morning after the engineer's worked his magic on the switch. If our efforts have been to no avail, and you're still available Thursday evening, I might take you up on the offer (assuming that's not too late notice for you, of course)

 

I'll PM you tomorrow. Thanks

 

Before I forget, I must post this link for our spaghetti tree friend Clanger speak

 

Love it!!!

[NB Phoenix]

Hi John - thanks. Wednesday's gonna be a late one for me at work (gotta see Richard II) so I won't be home till gone midnight. But thanks for the offer. Tell you what - I'll see how my tinkering goes tonight and then I'll let you know if Kev gets it all working tomorrow morning after the engineer's worked his magic on the switch. If our efforts have been to no avail, and you're still available Thursday evening, I might take you up on the offer (assuming that's not too late notice for you, of course)

 

I'll PM you tomorrow. Thanks

Love it!!!

 

Hi BlueStringPudding

 

Have just spoken to the man at Black Prince and it seems that most of what you have been told is correct! Your heating system IS feed by the domestic water pump! BUT it is via a header tank with a float valve inside.

 

So to go into detail, the header tank should be inside right hand (starboard side) cupboard / wardrobe just as you come down the rear steps. The tank is located behind a panel at about eye level in this cupboard. Now the header tank is supplied by a float valve from the domestic water system. This is a ball valve similar to the one in a house toilet cistern. This is a “top up” method only from when the boat was a hire boat. If the heating has been drained (which in your case is possible) it should first be filled with 50/50% water and anti-freeze via the header tank, or you will need to drain it all down again befor winter. When the system contain the correct amount of anti-freeze/water, the heating can be bleed and topped up with the domestic pump turned on to allow the header tank to refill. It should be noted that the float valve sometimes gets stuck shut so you need to check this is working correctly before you bleed the system.

 

All ex Black Prince boats should have a twin coil calorifier, so the eberspatcher will give you both heating and hot water also running the engine will give you hot water as well.

 

Hope this helps. I will PM you with my contact details and I will be at Napton Junction until Thursday PM.

 

Regards

 

John

[BlueStringPudding]

Hi BlueStringPudding

 

Have just spoken to the man at Black Prince and it seems that most of what you have been told is correct! Your heating system IS feed by the domestic water pump! BUT it is via a header tank with a float valve inside.

 

So to go into detail, the header tank should be inside right hand (starboard side) cupboard / wardrobe just as you come down the rear steps. The tank is located behind a panel at about eye level in this cupboard. Now the header tank is supplied by a float valve from the domestic water system. This is a ball valve similar to the one in a house toilet cistern. This is a “top up” method only from when the boat was a hire boat. If the heating has been drained (which in your case is possible) it should first be filled with 50/50% water and anti-freeze via the header tank, or you will need to drain it all down again befor winter. When the system contain the correct amount of anti-freeze/water, the heating can be bleed and topped up with the domestic pump turned on to allow the header tank to refill. It should be noted that the float valve sometimes gets stuck shut so you need to check this is working correctly before you bleed the system.

 

All ex Black Prince boats should have a twin coil calorifier, so the eberspatcher will give you both heating and hot water also running the engine will give you hot water as well.

 

Hope this helps. I will PM you with my contact details and I will be at Napton Junction until Thursday PM.

 

Regards

 

John

 

Will do - you're a star. Thank you!

 

[BlueStringPudding]

Oh b*ggerations!

 

Engineer bloke from Kate Boats replaced our leaking tap yesterday and removed the old Eberspacher switch only to find he didn't know how to put the timer switch on!!!! Now we have a bunch of wires hanging out and no switch at all. Kev spoke to Kate Boats today who say they have no-one available who knows how to wire the timer switch in, till next Wednesday now. Marvellous! So there'll be no testing out my radiators and Eberspacher for at least a week and we'll have to hang around the area. Oh well...

[Scotty]

Now we have a bunch of wires hanging out and no switch at all.

Did you manage to get a model number for your Eberspacher?

 

From a quick look at the manuals i'd guess your bunch of wires might be red, green, brown & possibly blue

and your timer has a plug on the end of a cable.

 

But as you're swapping a switch for a timer they might not match up?

Edited July 12, 2007 by Scotty

[BlueStringPudding]

Did you manage to get a model number for your Eberspacher?

 

From a quick look at the manuals i'd guess your bunch of wires might be red, green, brown & possibly blue

and your timer has a plug on the end of a cable.

 

But as you're swapping a switch for a timer they might not match up?

 

Hi Scotty,

 

Had a delve around, torch in hand but couldn't see the model number for the Eberspacher. I don't know if it's rubbed off or just tucked round an inaccessble bit.

 

As for the switch wires - yes, the timer switch has red, green, brown and blue hanging out the bottom of black cable sheathing. It also comes with 2 different black plastic plug type things - I don't know which you're supposed to use as it's not brilliantly clear on the instructions - then you have to wire in the digital bit to one of the plugs.

 

As I got home at 1am yesterday I didn't have a really good nose around the remains of the old Eberspacher switch so I can't say what the wiring looks like under there. Perhaps there'll be a corresponding socket to one of the plugs. Or similar coloured wires... but I'd have thought if that was the case, the chap who removed the old switch would have known how to wire the new one in...?

[carlt]

Before I forget, I must post this link for our spaghetti tree friend Clanger speak

 

Cheers mate. Now every time I sit in front of the computer I've got the 5 year old son saying:

"play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger"

[BlueStringPudding]

Cheers mate. Now every time I sit in front of the computer I've got the 5 year old son saying:

"play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger, play tiny clanger"

 

 

[Scotty]

You've got a plug and a socket there by the looks of things.

 

So if there's a matching socket on your control unit then it should go straight in.

If not, then hopefully your bunch of wires are the correct colours

and you can fit a new socket to the end of them.

 

Looks like Blue is for a remote control unit?

so don't worry if you haven't got one.

Red +

Brown -

Green switched +

 

carlt

[BlueStringPudding]

You've got a plug and a socket there by the looks of things.

 

So if there's a matching socket on your control unit then it should go straight in.

If not, then hopefully your bunch of wires are the correct colours

and you can fit a new socket to the end of them.

 

Looks like Blue is for a remote control unit?

so don't worry if you haven't got one.

Red +

Brown -

Green switched +

 

carlt

 

Thanks, Scotty. That diagram did admittedly come with the switch, however the lower one with squares and switch diagrams and things is a mystery to me. I'll take a good look at what wires have been left behind from the old switch. You never know, it might already have a socket.

 

Incidentally, you said don't worry about the blue. Fair enough, but what do I do with it? Tape it off? Wire it in anyway?