David

Hi Moved house see my Kelvin post, came across this, hope the attachments work, gave up with Photobucket after more freezing and crashes (took ages to get pic on Kelvin post, rant over. Its Borg Warner Velvet Drive Reduction box service manual if the pic's work all the info can be seen. I had it well over 30 years ago so must fall in the "vintage cat". It's free just postage to anyone who would like it hence not in the for sale forum and I want the old engine boys to have first chance. regards david I see the pic's are OK

Going to look now for PM

Hi Moved house and found some of the above mag's, (Kevin Whittle) which for the cost of postage (or welcome to collect) say £2 someone might like. Made a list of the issues but lost it and they are now again boxed up in garage as I write, from memory issue 114 116 then from about 130 to 143. Maybe a few more hiding around in still unopened boxes, but most went to the new owner of MisterB anyone interested give me a shout David .

Hi Had a 2.2 would you believe I bought it fit but none running in a 35ft Handcock and Lane in 1979. Got it going and used it for several years till swapped for a 1.8. being a bit more realistic size for a smaller boat Anyway a couple of hard learnt points. after running it don't just drain down water assuming you will use just plain water if it will get frost/frozen, there is a water trap area in the block casting that can and will crack add a good drop of anti freeze (never got the weld repair to completely stay water tight unless also coated will a plastic metal sealer). You mention heater plugs you need a resister inline before the first plug in case none is fitted otherwise after a while the first one blows/end melts off as it gets too hot and it cannot stand the combustion pressure. Found that out the (expensive) hard way to. If the first plug fails it cuts the supply to the other 3 because of the way they are linked so you soon know cos it won't start or get v,hard to. Got a land rover resister from local scrappy looked like a coiled spring, never needed another plug. The solenoid that pulls the starter motor in gets dirty and the starter justs "clunks" like you get with a flat battery. The big copper contactor gets that greeny stuff you get on copper from the damp atmosphere down in the engine compartment I expect, giving it a wire wool clean fixes it. To get done and reassemble it's easiest to remove the starter and do it in comfort on the bench(kitchen table) Of course to get the starter of means swinging the oil filter out of the way, loosen the adapter bolts take one out and pivot the adaptor and filter pot a bit gives enough room to pull the starter motor back and off and just a few drops of oil escape. If you drop the filter out of the pot you get the pot full of oil everywhere as well. Don't forget to retighten the filter after you put starter back, but that's another story!!! And that reminds me, some of the old drilled and tapped holes in the block used for mounting the engine into the vehicle originally go right through the casing and need blanking of to be on the safe side It ran via a Borg Warner Velvet drive and 2.1 reduction which gave good service and traded in for PRM for the 1.8. The upside is the 2.2 was the old black taxi cab engine almost impossible to break took loads of abuse and ours ran for hours after dropping all the oil with no after effects. david

Hi Peter/ Maureen I hope to let them go as one lot, so will have to wait to see how it goes, thanks to Nigel for your reply too, as he says he can help if you want, off hand I don't recall what Nigel had them made to, I will dig out the caliper at some point in case this is asked again (unless Nigel posts the thickness !). david

Hi all As promised some time ago I now have time to deal with getting the stuff I put together for the long term when we had MisterB into the hands of someone who can use them or put them by for the future. I will next week post on the for sale section, but as a heads up there are 3 liners Seaward old new stock Kelvin not imports, 3sets valve guides Seaward stock, refurbished push rods (new solid drawn 9/16 tube ends re-soldiered on) spare lengths of tube, 3 head gaskets (from Nigel aka BEngo), injector pump labelled new when I outbid I think Anlwick, brass tube gismo which fits onto the pump, original diesel filter the bag type, a kit for converting the crank water pump drive to chain drive inc stainless chain, links half links several cogs to fit a pump to give different speed ratio, and a 2mt length of 2inch wet exhaust hose unused (from mastervolt originally left over from the generator. That's all the pics I have for now I will sort more out for the sale post and for anyone who wants to contact me, incidentally I have to inform all that the liners and guides cost north of £1000 so I am hoping for sensible offers when I list everything plus what's here David edited to make sense

Hi I see one poster has mention "the volume will be large so you will need a good sized compressor", having had access to all the equipment via a grit blast equipment manufacturers near Chester who hired out kits and sold grits and a compressors via my brother who was sufficiently high up in H++++n Hire to "lose a compressor" for a week or two I have blasted our old boats 6 times in 30 years of boating, admitted the last time was about 1994 anyway the compressor I used was usually about a 600 cfm (cubic foot per min) with a 3/8" or 7/16" nozzle and 1/8" slag grit. Cost in 1994 £120 for the kit and protective helmet with air feed and 10 mask lenses, £5 per half cwt bag of grit (needed between 15 and 20 bags) nil for compressor but would have been about £300 per week and also nil for diesel (45 gallon drum came with comp') but it used most of that. Below are some figures from a site I have linked, the second table indicates why proper equipment is a must for safety, scary speeds will remove flesh to the bone and eyes gone instantly. Production Compressor size required nozzle rate at 100 psi rate nozzle size compressor size 1/4" 185 cfm 40-50 h.p. 5/16" 250 cfm 60-75 h.p. 3/8" 375 cfm 75-100 h.p. 7/16" 450 cfm 125 h.p. 1/2" 600 cfm 150 h.p. Blast Nozzle Pressure Estimated Abrasive Velocity 140 psi 588 mph 125 psi 525 mph 110 psi 462 mph 100 psi 420 mph 95 psi 400 mph 90 psi 365 mph 85 psi 330 mph 80 psi 270 mph 75 psi 210 mph 70 psi 190 mph Link http://www.dawson-macdonald.com/media/parts-and-accessories/BorideNozzleCatalog.pdf

Hi Just to say the books are spoken for now, no idea what has happened to the for sale post I sent in as so far it has not appeared on the for sale forum so I cannot inform on there that they are off the table. Regards David

Hi Have posted here on Other to give a heads up until the moderator posts my for sale post as much of the stuff offered might be of interest to my friends who hang around this forum. The old photo's are maybe of interest or more so the High Speed Diesel volumes set everything but everything about diesel engines from pre 1949 (date published) Gardner, Dorman Gleniffer Leyland Ruston Perkins etc etc etc when I say everything it means fuel and pumps timing and gear filters such like pistons and con rods cranks and cooling. Road applications marine applications industrial application. Just interesting reading David http://s210.photobucket.com/user/kelvinj3/library/Canal%20Books

Hi As it's the time of year we are up here in the Highlands I take to looking at property and pipe dreaming, anyway came across this. http://www.zoopla.co.uk/for-sale/details/27172203?search_identifier=cb489e0e66c57b49fe0b0a524c7d45a2 Regards to all David

Hi again yes you can thread s/s we did 8mm threads on maded up fittings often with bog standard split dies, method as advised by biggles, which is how it should be done threading m/s also gives a much better finish to the cut doing it in stages. By the way the bed curtains around the fixed double on our ex-boat was a s/s rod but 6mm supported by small cup hooks and eyes. By the way and off topic a quick Google gives approx 2.6 million replys for die nuts, david

Hi The sort out continues Last year I had a split sprocket mounted on a split boss made up with the intention of changing the belt drive pictured below to chain drive as some of you may have seen on for example Tom Montaqu's kelvin which like my ex had no original waterpump. I did fit the sprocket assembly to check the fit, very easy, in place of the split pully, but found I would have to move the pump a little and also the pipework, so re-placed the pully and belt with the intention of carrying out the change over at a later date. Well as you know MisterB has gone to owner new and I have the afore mentioned assembly looking for a new home. If it would be of interest to anyone contact me, I would like to recover some of the cost of machining and wire eroding the split and sprockets so not looking for a fortune but a sensible offer before I try it on the EBay. It is of course for the J with the 1 1/8" crank with the 3/4" throw. The chain is 3/8" stainless steel, sprockets are 3/8" m/steel, 2 pieces of chain approx 1 metre each 1 piece approx half metre, 6 link sets, and choice of 3 pump sprockets to suit what ever ratio you would like centre drilled if I recall 16mm (to suit my Johnson pump) and 3 plastic idler rollers. David Just weighed in at just over 5kilo so Royal Mail postage will add approx £13

Hi Richard I have these which you can have for a fiver plus postage, a Honywell L641B1012 thermostat and a Jabasco circulation pump 12V DC 59500-0012 pm me if interested. Working when I removed them from the back boiler circuit and change to diesel boiler. David

Hi I have posted the two items linked below on E-Bay, hope they may interest you (and get me a better sale), still got engine spares to list when I get round to it. david http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Kelvin-marine-engine-speed-and-forward-reverse-control-/300760724880?pt=UK_Antiques_DecorativeAntiques_Collectables_EH&hash=item4606bc7590 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Kelvin-type-marine-engine-gearbox-forward-reverse-control-wheel-/300760744719?pt=UK_Antiques_DecorativeAntiques_Collectables_EH&hash=item4606bcc30f

Hi This link should open auction page of unsold lots (bids ended today) which can still be bid on for a limited time, Kelvin owners might take a look at the fuel pumps fitted to the Paxman gennies. http://www.go-dove.com/en/event-16550/British-Waterways-Workboats-Vegetation-Contractors-Plant-and/lots David P.S. Jerry if you catch this I have tried to change my profile but it is not possible to save changes at the present see the Technical forum section where this problem is a current topic

Hi I have one you can have plus the inline circulating pump if you need a backup one, pm me if you are interested meanwhile I will go and have a look at the make and model as they are stored in my box room along with all the other handy stuff I kept and brought of the boat now it's sold, only want a couple of quid plus postage david P.S must get round to making a list to put on here or Ebay That was quick found it first time it's a Honywell L641B1012 as per ian above and a Jabasco circulation pump 12V DC 59500-0012

Hi One just gone on the BW tender here at Calveley it's about a 40min drive to stoke on trent david

Hi all Thanks for all good wishes, will let you know in due course how it goes and what I may have left to dispose of. regards David P.S no more plaques richard, just my own in the engine room, god knows what they would cost today we did them just in time before the price of gunny etc went bonkers.

Hi thanks for the commiserations, but things change, sorry no petrol dispenser, what I have is engine bits, main bits being 3 new liners (real kelvin ones) brand new injector pump (with elements replaced would also fit a K3) valve guides, push rod tubing, Also a new unused split pulley fitted with a sprocket to fit the J water pump crank and turn it into a chain drive for a jabasco type pump if the plunger pump is U/S. A large bronze forward and reverse / throttle hand lever control embossed kelvin, some time I will photo it. Also 2 good cylinders with good liners but they require the pieces cut out to remove the solidified coal dust (Ithink it was) welding back in or plating over with gasket and screws etc. I do have also a J3, (no heads or cylinders any good) and gearbox but not dismantled or inspected but look good stored at my mates. regards david

Hi If you happen to have looked at the for sale section you will see I have posted the link (subject to mod's approval)to our broker for the, very reluctant, sale of MisterB, brought about by changed circumstances our moving aboard after getting it fully set up for living are now a none starter. Hence when the boat is no longer ours I will be selling my stock of spares unless the new owner wishes to buy them. So Kelvin perverts watch this space. david